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I've got my Brake booster mounted to my frame. I boxed in the frame so the OEM mount would not work. So I mounted the bracket directly to the frame. And then had to recess the boxing plate so the brake bladder would be able to sit into the frame.
But now I am planning on how to run my brake lines and am wondering on what others think about the Prop valve that comes with the CPP brake booster? Should I plan to put in one of these as well?
MY thought is to do both. For $40 I'd rather plan on putting it in now rather than having to do it after when the cab and bed are on the truck and the frame has been painted.
I just did some reading of the reviews of the CPP valve and they are not the best. So even more I'm leaning towards running both but looks like I'll be rolling the dice if the CPP one even works in the first place.
The unit I have on my panel hasn't given me any problems but I have the unit on the firewall which shouldn't make any difference..doing the same on the pickup I'm building..
what are you running? 4 wheel disc, 4 wheel drum, or front discs and rear drums?
Sorry forgot that detail! Disk all around. I'm doing the C4 Corvette suspension front and rear with the 13" rotors up front and the 11" in the rear. I'll plan to upgrade to the larger Wildwood some day.
Thanks guys. DRptop the first link you posted is the same valve that comes with the CPP brake booster. My questions was if I should be adding in addition to that block is the valve like you posted in the second link.
Chuck I'll certainly be using a few of those residual valves. Thanks for that link!
I think I'll be adding the additional adjustable valve just to be safe. $40 extra at this point is not such a big deal
I have read threads on the aftermarket valves leaking, so I was weary of using one, but my stock of OEM stuff is drying up and good used pre ABS valves cost more than the aftermarket ones.
So far I have installed two and have had no leaking issues, two more are on projects that do not have fluid in them yet.
Thanks guys. DRptop the first link you posted is the same valve that comes with the CPP brake booster. My questions was if I should be adding in addition to that block is the valve like you posted in the second link.
Chuck I'll certainly be using a few of those residual valves. Thanks for that link!
I think I'll be adding the additional adjustable valve just to be safe. $40 extra at this point is not such a big deal
Doesn't the booster M/C kit that you bought have a proportioning valve mounted underneath it?
If so and if you bought a disc/disc kit the check valves are built in and you shouldn't need the adjustable valve for the rear. In fact installing another one in line when you already one have could give you some unpredictable problems under certain conditions depending upon how you set the add on unit. I would recommend that you drive your truck with the current set up at all speeds and under all conditions including wet, dry, icy, dirt and gravel before making any decisions to add something. At the very least this would give you a baseline.
Thanks for the advice Pete. And yes the one I have did come with the valve. I'll be in the garage tonight finishing up the passenger side exhaust routing. Then starting on the brake and fuel line runs. Well the planning of where they will go anyway.
Next actual project will be the finish work on the fenders. Want to get those done while I can do the work outside.
I do like your exhaust system. I like the routing away from the brake booster and toward the center with a crossover. Are you making/bending that yourself?
Thanks Pete. I'm not bending them myself. Found a site with good quality pre bent 304 SS. They have standard thickness and extra thick. Intercooler Pipe Fabrication Even though the link says the site is for intercooler they do have exhaust pipe on the site.
Here a few more shots of my exhaust thus far. Like I said I'll be finishing up the passenger side tonight.
The reason for the flex joint is to take up the expansion and contraction in the exhaust as it heats up and cools down as well as the twist and vibration of the engine. Also since the exhaust tips are in a pretty specific place being recessed into the running board I needed a fairly rigid exhaust system mounting. The system is mount on rubber grommets to help expansion and vibration. But the whole system from the flex joints back is pretty stiff.
The reason for the 180 turn is I didn't want to mount the mufflers under the cab. I really wanted to keep noise and heat away as much as possible. So the mufflers are mounted behind the cab under the bed. Yes I know the exhaust exiting on the side is not gonna help that. But on that esthetics won over function.