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I got nothing on the tester for the +/Orange nor the -/Brown per your outline above.
I tried both the Accessory position and one forward from Off on the ignition switch. All of that was done with the blower set on High and the AC/Heater set to Vent. I think the temp was set to cold.
I believe I just need to insert the probe far enough to touch metal in the plug on the proper side, correct?
Hook you test light between the POS (+) battery post and the Orange wire with a black stripe.
Turn the blower switch on HI.
The test light should light.
With the test light not lighting says that you do not have a ground for the blower motor.
Originally Posted by subford
hook you test light between the NEG (-) battery post and the Brown wire with a Orange stripe.
With the key on the test light should light in any position of A/C-Heater function selector switch except off.
With the test light not lighting says you have no power coming from the A/C-Heater function selector switch in the dash.
Make sure your test light is making contact with these circuits.
Should I be exposing wire for these tests or is using the probe into the plug sufficient?
I attached my test light alligator clip to the POS (+) post and inserted the probe to the power plug on the side with the Orange wire / black stripe, making sure I was touching metal of the interior prongs. Nada. Turned back off and took the tester off.
I attached the NEG (-) post to the clip next, and inserted the probe into the power plug with the Brown Wire / Orange Stripe. Moved ignition to ON. Still nothing.
Wouldn't this indicate the power plug itself is toast? Or is there something else I can check?
I removed the wire loom from the wires powering the heater blower motor. They look perfectly fine, except potentially right near the plug connector itself.
I have seen some wire tone devices that can diagnose breaks in a wire. Harbor Freight has one for $25 and I've got some store credit with them. But I don't know where the other end of the orange/black stripe or brown wire ends. They disappear through the wire cluster into the dash.
I can also confirm now with the blower motor removed that the vacuum line is NOT operating the cold/hot door inside. This was done with the battery disconnected and the truck off. If I move the lever arm on the vacuum unit manually it WILL open and close the door - it is not stuck.
Hook you test light between the POS (+) battery post and the Orange wire with a black stripe.
Turn the blower switch on HI.
The test light should light. Dose it?
Originally Posted by TexanAmmo
Ok, I did the tests.
I got nothing on the tester for the +/Orange per your outline above.
Originally Posted by subford
With the test light not lighting says that you do not have a ground for the blower motor.
You may have a bad G201 or the truck may not have a Body ground.
So, I will need to replace the plug. The unit itself also looks pretty scorched from the outside. Which pigtail do I use for this?
Also, I don't see how I remove the switch unit. It's still attached on the right (and zip tied on) in addition to something on the bottom holding it in. And that's before I disconnect the wire actuator.
- Red 4-prong power plug on the back right of the unit (I think that is power out?) now disconnected
- Yellow 6-prong hexagonal-ish pass-through connector now disconnected
- Grey 2-wire connector (perhaps a fuse?) - still connected
- The actuator cable (how do I remove that?)
OK, I know how to get the plug out just by cutting wires. I can try out my soldering skills. It's been a while but I soldered the charge controller for my solar panel so I can get this. If I can't find a junkyard truck with it, what is that part called so I can order a replacement?
But how do I properly remove the actuator wire? I can just pull the end out of the actuator arm, but what about the part just behind that with the blue plastic piece? Is that just glued to the white plastic?
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