Sleeping giant.
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From: Media PA
Good point!
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I have come to this conclusion after trying everything else that has been suggested. Can this be done in my driveway without a jack to lower the tank? I tried to siphon fuel through the gas fill cap with no luck. The gauge shows to have just over a half a tank in it?
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Joined: May 2012
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From: Colorado
I have come to this conclusion after trying everything else that has been suggested. Can this be done in my driveway without a jack to lower the tank? I tried to siphon fuel through the gas fill cap with no luck. The gauge shows to have just over a half a tank in it?
A jack should help. Look up you tube videos.
Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Western AR
I used a bunch of 18 inch 2x4s stacked on each other when I dropped my tank. Used a jack to lower it initially onto the blocks. Then I used the same blocks to put it back up in there when I was done. I call it the "Egyptian method". Add or remove one block at a time on each side till you get it where you want it. You can even add in some 1x4s to get more precise with placement...
2x6s are more expensive, but they also offer more surface area and safety.
2x6s are more expensive, but they also offer more surface area and safety.
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From: Media PA
You should be able to get a good siphon going to take most of the old gas out of the tank to make dropping and lifting it back up easier, there isn't anything in the fill tube or tank to prevent siphoning.
All of the electric wires and gas feed and return lines have enough slack built into them to allow for the tank to come all the way down before disconnecting them. The filler and vent tubes can stay attached to the tank after taking out the three screws at the filler door pocket. There is just enough room to snake the fill tube between the bottom of the body and top of the frame. And the tank is only held in place by the four bolts that go through the skid plate into the body.
Whith the tank out its very easy to upgrade the smaller receiver hitch bolts to the later model larger hardware which is the only difference in the hitch ratings through the production years. The round head factory hitch bolts come right out with a pipe wrench with the tank out of the way, all the hitch bolts have thread locker on them so a little heat will soften that and ease removal.
All of the electric wires and gas feed and return lines have enough slack built into them to allow for the tank to come all the way down before disconnecting them. The filler and vent tubes can stay attached to the tank after taking out the three screws at the filler door pocket. There is just enough room to snake the fill tube between the bottom of the body and top of the frame. And the tank is only held in place by the four bolts that go through the skid plate into the body.
Whith the tank out its very easy to upgrade the smaller receiver hitch bolts to the later model larger hardware which is the only difference in the hitch ratings through the production years. The round head factory hitch bolts come right out with a pipe wrench with the tank out of the way, all the hitch bolts have thread locker on them so a little heat will soften that and ease removal.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,874
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From: Kaufman TX
Yup the gas tank is going to have a plastic cover protecting it. If that test didn't work you have a strong indication that pump itself is bad. It is possible that it's a broken wire or bad connector problem but it's at least worth dropping the tank at this point.
Once you have it down test continuity at the pump connector so that you know the harness is good, and even though it almost certainly is you don't want to learn that you may have a harness problem after reinstalling the tank, so do it now.
With the tank down it just makes sense to replace the pump and sender and inspect hoses and lines and replace any that are questionable. This job is dirty and sucks to do, so make the most of it.
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Joined: May 2012
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From: Colorado
Sorry been a long couple of days.
Yup the gas tank is going to have a plastic cover protecting it. If that test didn't work you have a strong indication that pump itself is bad. It is possible that it's a broken wire or bad connector problem but it's at least worth dropping the tank at this point.
Once you have it down test continuity at the pump connector so that you know the harness is good, and even though it almost certainly is you don't want to learn that you may have a harness problem after reinstalling the tank, so do it now.
With the tank down it just makes sense to replace the pump and sender and inspect hoses and lines and replace any that are questionable. This job is dirty and sucks to do, so make the most of it.
Yup the gas tank is going to have a plastic cover protecting it. If that test didn't work you have a strong indication that pump itself is bad. It is possible that it's a broken wire or bad connector problem but it's at least worth dropping the tank at this point.
Once you have it down test continuity at the pump connector so that you know the harness is good, and even though it almost certainly is you don't want to learn that you may have a harness problem after reinstalling the tank, so do it now.
With the tank down it just makes sense to replace the pump and sender and inspect hoses and lines and replace any that are questionable. This job is dirty and sucks to do, so make the most of it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,874
Likes: 953
From: Kaufman TX
Yup! Sorry I was remembering a sender job I did 2 weeks ago on another vehicle with a plastic cover while I was typing that up.
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Finished (well almost)
I just (2 hours ago) changed the pump and bolted the tank up. Thanks for all the advise. This was probably the longest fuel pump replacement job. But could only work on it a couple days a week and for only a couple hours each day. My 9 almost 10 year old son was all the help I had until today after we got as far as we could by ourselves. After some help from my father in law and brother in law it's done. Now I have a dead battery which I'm charging. Also my hazards are flashing along with the enterior lights and the running board lights. If I turn the flashers on then they only flash as soon as I turn them off all the lights flash. If I turn the brights on then the flashing stops for a few seconds. If I try to start the truck the flashing stops if I take the key out it continues. Any advice or assistance would be appreciated. Thanks to those who gave me advice on changing the pump.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Kaufman TX
After some help from my father in law and brother in law it's done. Now I have a dead battery which I'm charging. Also my hazards are flashing along with the interior lights and the running board lights. If I turn the flashers on then they only flash as soon as I turn them off all the lights flash. If I turn the brights on then the flashing stops for a few seconds. If I try to start the truck the flashing stops if I take the key out it continues. Any advice or assistance would be appreciated. Thanks to those who gave me advice on changing the pump.
You sure one of those two didn't pull a fast one on you while "helping" ?
I honestly have very few ideas.. sounds like a keyless entry module might be going nuts... do you have keyless entry? Low voltage can cause odd behavior though, see how it acts when your batteries aren't dead.
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