Looking for tips....

Last spring, i replaced the AC evap core, heater core, compressor, accumulator, condenser, front orifice, o-rings, etc. on my 2000 Eddie Bauer Expedition. AC system is now working great!

Problem is... i have a condensation leak at the AC drain inside the cab.
When I had the dash out of the truck and was replacing the evap core, i had to loosen the evap box assembly to get the evap and heater core out. I think I had the drain line inserted back into the hole in the firewall, but, I honestly don't remember looking at it.

I do see condensate on the ground under the truck, but, it is also running down the passenger side floor.

Any thoughts or tips/tricks to check the drain line connection?
I've pulled the passenger wheel well and can see the black flat drain cover (at least I think that's what i see), but, can't get a good view of the drain.

1) should I be able to see the drain from under the truck?
2) is there a hose/fitting that perhaps came loose from the evap box drain when I loosened the box (about 1")?
3) is my "fix" another dash pull?

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

Darryl

 

anyone????

 

I have no idea what the drain line/ drain method would look like for your truck.

However, you said you pulled the evap box out about an inch, right?
It is unclear whether you saw or detached anything for the drain.

I think you're going to have to use an inspection mirror and a bright LED flashlight to shine into the mirror to see what you have.

I know for years boxes inside the cabin, like heater boxes when the evap was under the hood, and air inlet passages from the cowl, would have a plastic nub on the box, the nub fit through a hole in the firewall. The nub had a hole in it, usually with a rubber flapper over it. A thin foam type of gasket would seal the back of the box around the nub to the inside of the firewall.


A Story
We had a 1990 Merc that the carpet on the pass. side was always getting wet. Took a long time to find out why. Rain water would go through the grill by the windshield, and what water that made it into the air inlet went down to the bottom of the plastic air inlet box inside the car, where there was a nub that fit through the firewall like I described above.

The water would push open the thin rubber flapper, and drain out of the nub through the firewall. The only way to see this was to disconnect the rear of the pass. side wheel well, and flex it forward to look across the firewall at the nub.

With one person pouring water from a pitcher into the cowl inlet, I could see the water pour out of the nub OK. But water was still coming into the cabin. I noticed that as the water came out of the nub, it sometimes would roll back onto the firewall. We suspected that the foam gasket on the inside of the firewall had deteriorated, and there was no longer a water seal effectively case/nub to firewall.

So cleaned the nub and firewall up, all working through the wheel well gap, got it dry, then using blobs of caulk on finger, pushed caulk all around the outside of the nub into the firewall. Smoothed the caulk out to leave a nice fillet for strength. Let it cure, days later tried the water test. Problem solved. Never had anymore water problems.

I'm telling this long story to show that the method of getting water through the firewall may be very easy and one-step assembly at the factory. And there may be a seal that you disturbed by pulling the box that won't seal again. If you can see the outlet, then maybe you can try an exterior fix if that might be the problem.

Cautions - There may be more than one nub. For years, cars had one for the air inlet water, a separate one for if the heater core leaked. I don't know how many you would have total with the evap being inside now. You have to look at the right one, if more than one.

 

Thank you.