Color over epoxy primer?
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FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: paradise, northern calif.
Color over epoxy primer?
Hello all, I have a paint question. After prepping some new parts, and applying 2 coats of epoxy primer, is there any reason I need HB primer, or can I go right to color after proper curing time and scuffing? (The prep consisted of wiping down with lacquer thinner and applying 2 coats of rust converter when received last winter, then scuffing, wiping down with wax/silicone/grease remover, followed by tack cloth, B4 the epoxy primer.) As always I very much appreciate the sharing of your thoughts and experience.
PS The top coat is a modified acrylic enamel with hardener.
PS The top coat is a modified acrylic enamel with hardener.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Brentwood, TN
Every time I have a question about "what", I always ask "why". The why behind the epoxy primer is twofold; first you have a super bond to the metal that will resist any delamination which might leave a pathway for moisture and rust. Secondly you have a base surface that is imperious to virtually any topcoat...no lifting, no bleedthrough. As long as the epoxy surface is cured and properly prepared you can apply virtually any topcoat over it. Next question, why use HB primer? Answer, to fill in imperfections in the surface and to give a base for sanding these imperfections away. I like to think of it as "sprayable bondo". To the "why" question...does the panel have imperfections that need to be worked out? If not, then the HB primer is not necessary. If there are imperfections then they must be evaluated to make sure that other means might be more appropriate than HB primer but whatever the case there is no need for HB primer just to make a base for the acrylic enamel topcoat. I sprayed many a car with acrylic enamel over lacquer primer that was not nearly as durable as epoxy and it worked just fine. Good luck Jimmy I am sure it will turn out like jewelry...
Welder User
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: northwest MT
Most epoxy primers you can top coat without scuffing as well......usually within 24 hours of spraying. I do this a lot on non critical stuff. Suspension parts, floor pans, etc. Follow directions on the can or tech sheet.
sanding epoxy can be tricky as it usually is sprayed on fairly thin...easy to sand through on edges. Wet sand or use a scotch bright pad
sanding epoxy can be tricky as it usually is sprayed on fairly thin...easy to sand through on edges. Wet sand or use a scotch bright pad
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FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: paradise, northern calif.
Charlie, Scott, you have given me a clear view of my options and reasons for different course of actions. Thank you for your reply's, you guys are the best. Rock On my friends.
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FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: paradise, northern calif.
Well I skipped the HB , after all it's just a driver anyway. So now Ill wait a week and do a little color sanding using 1k, 2k to knock down the orange peel and one slight sag, followed by a 3 step polish to match the rest of my diy paint job LOL. We have some very talented painters with very generous hearts here on FTE, Thank you guys.
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From: northwestern Ontario
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Brentwood, TN
Jimmy, if you want a super slick finish on that tailgate with a minimum about of labor block it out with some 800 grit wet using a paint stirrer or some other hard block. Then shoot 3 coats of House of Kolor USC-01 show clear over it. It will flow out like glass. Here is what it looks like on the roof of my 40 with no colorsanding or buffing...
You can do it!
You can do it!
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Brentwood, TN
I have used House of Kolor products for years but this clear is even better than I expected it would be. I have used it on about 6 projects now and I'm sold.
BTW, here is a pic of me doing what I do so much of the time...
Sorry for the highjack Jimmy!
BTW, here is a pic of me doing what I do so much of the time...
Sorry for the highjack Jimmy!
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Brentwood, TN
I just got one long term project out the door so now the 40 moves back to the front of the queue...
Welder User
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: northwest MT
Charlie, that is good to know about the HOC clear, thanks. I keep telling myself I'm done with "top end" paint jobs.....gotta pay the bills though.
Jimmy, your tailgate looks great, rock on!
Jimmy, your tailgate looks great, rock on!
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FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: paradise, northern calif.
Thanks for the great advice Charlie. Would I have to at least scuff (or sand) in between the Script lettering and in the creases, or would the H of C clear bond to the partially cured acrylic without it. I had planned to just do the raised panels, the areas easy to buff without taking off all the edges. That's where I have a slight sag easy to wet sand off then buff. Don't worry about hurting any feelings I'm here to learn, and really appreciate all input. Heah while were on the subject, it's nice to get a glimpse of what you guys look like, you have done a good job of hiding up to now Charlie, but that super shiny paint busted you. ha, ha.