Replacing the fuel tank. Need help
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 178
Likes: 1
Replacing the fuel tank. Need help
Hey all, my tank is rusted all the way through so I need to replace it. I already have the new tank and just need to figure out how to drop the old tank. I already removed the two support straps on the bottom, but I can't figure out how to get it out. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
Hey all, my tank is rusted all the way through so I need to replace it. I already have the new tank and just need to figure out how to drop the old tank. I already removed the two support straps on the bottom, but I can't figure out how to get it out. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
What is the year, series, 2WD or 4WD, Flareside or Styleside, mid-ship or aft axle tank?
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
Upper pic: Aft axle fuel tank / Lower pic: Aft-axle fuel filler pipes, 83 is a Flareside.
New User
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
I have a ’79 2wd F100. Had to remove the two lower brackets and then push from the passenger side of the tank towards the driver side, where the fill tube is. Might have to use a pry bar to push the tank over. Once you get it pushed over far enough you should be able to lower the passenger side of the tank and remove it.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,235
Likes: 5,811
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Disconnect the wire that goes to the fuel sending unit at the tank. Ground that wire to the frame, making sure the frame is clean. Turn the ignition to the "run" position and watch the fuel gauge. If the gauge swings all the way to full, either the sending unit itself is bad or it has a bad ground.If the gauge stays on empty then either the gauge is bad or there is a wiring problem.
To pop the plug off for the test, you can barely get up in there with your head and see the plug. While looking at it, VERY CAREFULLY use a screwdriver to pry it off. AND I MEAN VERY CAREFULLY. It is only pushed on like a 1/8". This is only if you can’t get it with your hands.
Once you have done the test (above) and decide it’s the sending unit. And you have cleaned the ground and that did not work. Then disconnect the ground again and fuel line and read on….
If you can't get either one disconnected, no worries you will have a little more room once the tank is dropped down a little. But make sure you have some wire slack in the plug connector.
Run the tank dry or almost or siphon it empty, I would not do it with ½ a tank of fuel, but if you just have to, just use a big floor jackand a piece of 2x2 plywood. It’s not heavy at all, unless you have it full or 1/2 full of gas. DRAIN THE TANK!
Loosen the filler and vent hose clamps at the tank end and maybe you can pop the lines off? But most of the time you have to just loosen the clamps and wait till the tank is about out.
With the jack in place, or not, just loosen the hdwr (2 bolts) on the front straps, and remove the tank straps aft hdwr all together, then swing the straps out of your way.
Slide the tank to the dvrs side about 1/2" and then pull out or let the passenger side come out of the frame. Then disconnect the elec connector and eng feed fuel line if you could not get to them earlier.
Then slide it as far as you can to the right and pop off the filler/vent lines. Some time you need to carefully put a flat tip screwdriver in between the rubber hose and the tank to break it loose. The filler neck and vent lines get stuck to the metal pretty good some times.
Once the tank is removed there is a lock ring that comes off with a screwdriver or punch, look for a small tab that has been bent over tolock it. Un-bend it, tap off the lock ring, remove the sending unit.
Insp the underside of the tank where the support straps rest, lots of dirt and moisture build up there, and that causes the bottom side corners to rust out. You can also come reinstall time replace the anti-chaff material. Old 2" ratchet strap work great, glued to the support straps.
Insp the inside of the tank, might be a great time to replace it all together? Before you reinstall anything connect the electric connection and ground to the sending unit. Wire it up under the truck so it is not hanging by the connection. And with the key in the 1st(on position) you should be able to move the float arm and see a difference in your gauge?? It is always easier to do this with a helper.....
Also before install, paint the complete tank with some good paint. Even spray on bed liner or undercoating??
To pop the plug off for the test, you can barely get up in there with your head and see the plug. While looking at it, VERY CAREFULLY use a screwdriver to pry it off. AND I MEAN VERY CAREFULLY. It is only pushed on like a 1/8". This is only if you can’t get it with your hands.
Once you have done the test (above) and decide it’s the sending unit. And you have cleaned the ground and that did not work. Then disconnect the ground again and fuel line and read on….
If you can't get either one disconnected, no worries you will have a little more room once the tank is dropped down a little. But make sure you have some wire slack in the plug connector.
Run the tank dry or almost or siphon it empty, I would not do it with ½ a tank of fuel, but if you just have to, just use a big floor jackand a piece of 2x2 plywood. It’s not heavy at all, unless you have it full or 1/2 full of gas. DRAIN THE TANK!
Loosen the filler and vent hose clamps at the tank end and maybe you can pop the lines off? But most of the time you have to just loosen the clamps and wait till the tank is about out.
With the jack in place, or not, just loosen the hdwr (2 bolts) on the front straps, and remove the tank straps aft hdwr all together, then swing the straps out of your way.
Slide the tank to the dvrs side about 1/2" and then pull out or let the passenger side come out of the frame. Then disconnect the elec connector and eng feed fuel line if you could not get to them earlier.
Then slide it as far as you can to the right and pop off the filler/vent lines. Some time you need to carefully put a flat tip screwdriver in between the rubber hose and the tank to break it loose. The filler neck and vent lines get stuck to the metal pretty good some times.
Once the tank is removed there is a lock ring that comes off with a screwdriver or punch, look for a small tab that has been bent over tolock it. Un-bend it, tap off the lock ring, remove the sending unit.
Insp the underside of the tank where the support straps rest, lots of dirt and moisture build up there, and that causes the bottom side corners to rust out. You can also come reinstall time replace the anti-chaff material. Old 2" ratchet strap work great, glued to the support straps.
Insp the inside of the tank, might be a great time to replace it all together? Before you reinstall anything connect the electric connection and ground to the sending unit. Wire it up under the truck so it is not hanging by the connection. And with the key in the 1st(on position) you should be able to move the float arm and see a difference in your gauge?? It is always easier to do this with a helper.....
Also before install, paint the complete tank with some good paint. Even spray on bed liner or undercoating??
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 178
Likes: 1
Very good information, thank you very much. I am a bit confused on what the test you described is testing?
Trending Topics
Regular User
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,798
Likes: 15
From: Bathurst, New Brunswick
The test is to determine if a non-functioning gas gauge is due to a problem with the gauge or the sending unit. If the gauge pegs to full when the wire is grounded the problem is with the sending unit. That's the reason most folks drop the tank.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
You might need to loosen the upper straps to get the new tank in. It helps getting it out also, gives some wiggle room. If you look at Illustration 90 that ND posted, basic number 9092 are the upper straps, and they have a threaded end that draws them tight. Clean the threads with a wire wheel, and run a die up them with never seize to clean them up before you try loosening them.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,235
Likes: 5,811
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Does/did you fuel gauge work before you had a leaky tank? If yes I see no need to do the test.
You can always (with the tank out) hook up the elec connections, and turn the key to the 1st position and then move the arm and see if the gauge reacts correctly. You will need a friend for this.
You can always (with the tank out) hook up the elec connections, and turn the key to the 1st position and then move the arm and see if the gauge reacts correctly. You will need a friend for this.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 178
Likes: 1
I bought it non-running so I don't know. I will try that when I get the tank out. Where is the arm located that I should move? Also what electrical connections should be hooked up? Sorry, I'm unfamiliar with the tank and all the connections to it
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,235
Likes: 5,811
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
The arm is connected to the sending unit assembly with a float on the end. Connect the same elec connection you disconnected (slip on 2 prong) and then ground it.
If you are replacing the tank, you might as well replace the sending unit since you are that deep into it.
If you are replacing the tank, you might as well replace the sending unit since you are that deep into it.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 178
Likes: 1
Alright I finally got the tank out, took lots of wiggling around haha. I took out the fuel sending unit, and sure enough, I need to replace that too. There is a piece of the top of the old tank that had a hose running up to the front of the truck. It is part 9B593. The problem is, my new tank doesn't have any hole for that piece. What does that part do? Will my truck be okay without that on?