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I have a 94 Ford Ranger 4x4 4.0 V6. It has developed a rough idle and has lost i fair amount of power. I cleaned the maf sensor and iac valve. Along with replacing an o2 sensor that was reading bad, with no improvement. The guys at O'reilly took a look and think I may be dealing with a timing issue or a warped valve. My question here is, have any of you experienced a problem like this and found the culprit? I'm very inexperienced at working on vehicles and am damn intimidated by the scale of a project like timing. I should add that while traveling on the highway in high gear at low rpms, it develops a rough stutter. I can either power through it or ease off to get it to stop, but it resumes shortly after. It almost acts like an egr valve stuck open when on the highway. But that doesn't account for the rough (a consistent put, put, put...) idle. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Welcome to FTE.
Do you have a lit CEL, if so, scan the computer for trouble code clues & post All code Numbers as they can help focus your trouble shoot.
Did the problem come about suddenly after some event, or slowly over time?
Is the engine making any unusual noise that might cause you to think the problem is mechanical??? If so, use or fashion a stethoscope from a piece of hose, tubing or wooden dowel, one end to your ear, the other end on the suspect area & post up where the noise is emanating from & what it sounds like.
Have you had your scan tool perform a power balance test, as that could help focus the trouble shoot on a particular cylinder.
If you come to think it's a spark problem, raise the hood at night & at warm idle sprits the coil pack, plugs & wires one at a time with a spray bottle of water, while listening for a change in idle speed or quality & looking for a arcs & sparks light show from electrical break down.
Some starting trouble shooting thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.
check your injectors, I had a similar idle issue/miss did all the electronics and it turned out to be a dirty injector. They had checked OK by a shop but it just would not go away. about $200 to change all injectors and is not that difficult a job to do. Get a stethescope and listen as it idles see if all injectors sound the same or if 1 or 2 are out is sync with the others. How many miles on the vehicle/engine? Auto or manual?