Question on Economizer valve
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Houston
Question on Economizer valve
Ok I want to get the straight dope on this. The economizer valve on the 2150 series of carb, does it get vacuum through the two ports on the shaft side or does it get vacuum in the valve cover side?
I think the valve cover side cause I think fuel flows down the shaft and exits the valve through the two square windows. But engine guy is telling me vacuum is on those two ports instead.
I think mine is leaking and think its sucking fuel up causing my problems but trying to grasp how this functions and if I am right or if the engine guy is right.
I think the valve cover side cause I think fuel flows down the shaft and exits the valve through the two square windows. But engine guy is telling me vacuum is on those two ports instead.
I think mine is leaking and think its sucking fuel up causing my problems but trying to grasp how this functions and if I am right or if the engine guy is right.
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
The two rectangular the ports are for fuel. The vacuum is applied to the open end where you can see the center of the diaphragm. Somewhat explained here: 2150 Internal Systems - ???Gary's Garagemahal.
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Lead Driver
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From: Houston
Thanks, that's what I thought so if my diaphragm is busted leaking fuel into the bowl the carb can suck it up through the vacuum port as well as the valve not being able to be closed resulting in a rich mixture.
I haven't pulled mine off yet, still waiting for the company I ordered the taller valve cover to come in then I am going to try this two stage economizer see if it makes the truck better or worse performance wise.
I haven't pulled mine off yet, still waiting for the company I ordered the taller valve cover to come in then I am going to try this two stage economizer see if it makes the truck better or worse performance wise.
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Lead Driver
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From: Houston
I don't know exactly whats going on, all I know is when the truck sits when hot it will restart fine but after sitting 10 minutes or more some times more times than not it fires up then shuts off like the key is turned off. Hit the key to crank again engine spins over but if you apply a little throttle the engine will fire up and speed up to 1500 rpm as it clears up.
I also noticed that the truck smokes a bit out of the exhaust hard to tell what color the smoke is cause I cant see the smoke without putting a flash light to the exhaust pipe it is so faint. So I am hoping for the truck getting fuel from somewhere.
Ive pulled vacuum lines and it didn't make a bit of difference to the engine I even put my hand over the choke to see if its running lean and the engine wants to stall out telling me doing that is making the system run rich.
I am at the point that I have to rebuild the carb and go from there. I would be surprised if the economizer is not leaking considering the carb is over 10 years old. Ive already replaced the accelerator pump 3 times since the carb was installed.
Only thing I am looking into now for a possible upgrade is a dampner spring for the float.
I also noticed that the truck smokes a bit out of the exhaust hard to tell what color the smoke is cause I cant see the smoke without putting a flash light to the exhaust pipe it is so faint. So I am hoping for the truck getting fuel from somewhere.
Ive pulled vacuum lines and it didn't make a bit of difference to the engine I even put my hand over the choke to see if its running lean and the engine wants to stall out telling me doing that is making the system run rich.
I am at the point that I have to rebuild the carb and go from there. I would be surprised if the economizer is not leaking considering the carb is over 10 years old. Ive already replaced the accelerator pump 3 times since the carb was installed.
Only thing I am looking into now for a possible upgrade is a dampner spring for the float.
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From: Virginia
Just make sure you buy one of the latest kits, not some sort of OEM NOS kit off ebay or something like that. The later kits have the upgraded rubber parts to stand up to the ethanol in the fuel. That's the main problem with the carbs, the ethanol fuel. I believe the different fuel formulation is also what is making them touchy in hot weather.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Houston
Just make sure you buy one of the latest kits, not some sort of OEM NOS kit off ebay or something like that. The later kits have the upgraded rubber parts to stand up to the ethanol in the fuel. That's the main problem with the carbs, the ethanol fuel. I believe the different fuel formulation is also what is making them touchy in hot weather.
I did buy a kit for my Mercury from Rockauto kit that I received was a motorcraft kit not using that, I bought a kit from the Carb Doctor that pieces his kits together with ethanol safe components.
Just going to be another week or so till I rebuild it, wanted to this weekend but I have a two stage powervalve that came with this kit, carb has a single stage so I am awaiting for the deep valve cover to come in I bought for $3.
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cgunning17
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Sep 7, 2018 08:05 AM
