Any updates on performance yet OP and others on the thread? Just wondering as I'm thinking about getting a set of 4.30s installed into my truck for awhile now. You posting is the latest one and actually one of the few pulling the trigger on them too! Pretty much everyone I called in the area were either outrageously overpriced like $2800 plus another $500 for a tuner or didn't know what I wanted. Ironically a Ford dealer. They actually thought I wanted a Multi point inspection on the vehicle! I called a "speed" shop, the guy on the phone said we don't work on the drive train, just handle bolt on parts and tuners. DO I want to buy a tuner instead? LOL

However, I talked to a guy I use from time to time, he said over the phone. He would figure out a price to charge and it is easier for me if you bring the parts needed. Nitro Gears as a complete set for $1200. His prices are usually pretty reasonable and the work is excellent. If he brings back a good number, gears will be ordered up. He asked why I wanted to regear and I was pulling down a house. I just said just pulling the house down the road better. He laughed and said it would do that too. He would have an estimate to me on Monday.

For those who are wondering, yes a Tuner is in the budget but I will be supporting those who support here like 5 star

So OP, inquiring minds want to know what your verdict is.

 

I'm not done yet. The rear diff is done, And I was supposed to finish the front gears Yesterday but ran into an issue with the snap rings on the front axle shafts that require a very specific type of snapring pliers that you have to special order as they need to be long, narrow and very strong. Not many people have done this swap by themselves so there is very little information out there about it.

So the front axle is torn down, but still need to pull the half shafts out.

I put an Eaton Truetrac in the rear as well since I didn't have an ELocker from the factory.

I already have a 5star tuner so I'll switch the gearing to 4.30's in the ECU when I'm done. First thing I'm doing after gears get broken in is towing our 5th wheel to Florida for three weeks so I'll have some immediate feedback by next week.

 

I have done quite a few if these, if you have problems just ask. You don't actually need a tuner at all. Wheel speed is ready at the wheels so no calibration needed. A tuner is up to you. Do yourself a favor and get the knuckle seals now. You'll likely destroy them pulling the axles. Amazon is the cheapest by far.

 

The axle tube seal? Or the oring on the hub? The nitro kit comes with the tube seals but not the oring.

What snap ring pliers do you use? Do you need a case spreader for the front? Any issues with reinstall of the carrier without a spreader?

 

If the computer is reading the speed at the wheels, then why offer the ability to reassign the drive or rear end ratio? I would have thought the computer would have used this information to calculate engine performance and modify as needed.

If in fact, no tuner is needed, I guess that could in theory wait until Christmas or better yet my birthday. LOL

 

The Seal he is talking about is the Outer axle (knuckle) seal for the 4x4 hubs. I just did a few front end rebuilds on 2011 & 2012 trucks. The part number for the seal is NATIONAL 710685
I also chose to order the outer axle (tube) seals that install into the axle tube. Those are a Motorcraft BRS-170 (the updated version)

As for snap ring pliers, I feel your struggle. I spend 3 hours the first time working on one using all different kinds of snap ring pliers. Oddly the best I have are the Tekton 3576 set from amazon cheapo section. The straight tipped ones in the set fit in there well, and if you file the tips of them down they reliably take that large snap ring out with ease!

Hope that helped!

 

Thanks!

I'm a bit more confused now than before.

I have a Front inner axle seal part number Spicer/Forsheda 52148 - This came with the Nitro Gear kit. (left)

I also ordered a front Outer axle seal Timken 710701 (right).

I see that the National 710685 is very different than the two part numbers I have.

 

Those all look to be oil seals, not the knuckle seal. That national number is the same that I use as well. Also as a heads up if you aren't already aware, dana carriers are shimmed under the bearings inline the rear axle which is under the races. I rarely need a case spreader, nothing a carefully placed pry bar can't remove. It is easy to get in trouble with a case spreader and damage the case if you get carried away. I set my carrier shims for a snug fit on the setup then add a few thousandth to each side for final preload, you will be able to install with a dead blow. You need bug snap ring pliers for the front axle, the ones on Amazon and the large set from harbor freight work ok at a decent price.

 

The one on the right is the outer axle tube dust seal

 

Yes, the Two that you have pictured are installed into the axle tube itself. (Left) is the one that installs closest to the Carrier in the tube, the other one (Right) Installs in the very end of the axle tube to keep dirt and debris from getting in.

When you pull the axle shaft out from the axle, it will be snug because of the National seal installed on the end of the axle shaft shaft stub. That seal needs an OTC 6697 Wheel Knuckle install tool to install the new national seal first on the (stub) axle shaft. Once everything's done its used to set the depth of the axle shaft in the knuckle and line things up.

 

For the snap ring pliers I took a pair of really loooong needle nose and ground the ends into snap ring size years ago. Living in the sticks necessity is the mother of invention.

 

If this helps clarify the national seal, located inbetween the red dot and Mtn Dew can on axle shaft. The crooked metal ring is the backing of the seal that usually separates when you yank the shaft out.

 

Thanks for the help guys. I picked up the seals today, used a coupon through advance to get the cost around 40 each, rockauto had them for 30 each, but I'm trying to get this done before this weekend.

Bit the bullet and ordered the OTC 6697 tool through amazon as no one else could get it cheaper and faster.

I used these snapring pliers:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They came right out with those, took all of 30 seconds between having the package open to holding both snap rings.

 

Probably work a lot better than my hillbilly pliers. Lol. My other excuse is being Canadian so ordering stuff is often a giant PITA for me, not to mention expensive.

 

There were no outer tube seals in my axles. Unique to the manual hub trucks?