External fuel pump
#526
Dry day here today.
I did not pick up a vacuum gauge yet. I did spray some WD40 around hoses, intake, throttle housing, IAC connection to the throttle housing, PCV valve, you get the idea. No increase in idle to report.
I suppose I need to go out a get a gauge. Not exactly sure what to do with it from there. I'm guessing I disconnect a hose at a time and test it. What reading should I look for?
I did not pick up a vacuum gauge yet. I did spray some WD40 around hoses, intake, throttle housing, IAC connection to the throttle housing, PCV valve, you get the idea. No increase in idle to report.
I suppose I need to go out a get a gauge. Not exactly sure what to do with it from there. I'm guessing I disconnect a hose at a time and test it. What reading should I look for?
The test increases the idle a few times, during these increases the ECA will signal your EGR Solenoid to open its valve and allow the vacuum to be applied to the EGR.
There are always multiple possibilities for a single code, I think I would start there.
#527
Yes and no. Whichever diode is fastest will come on first and start conducting current. And at the end of the cycle whichever diode has the lowest voltage drop, and we are talking .7v ish, will be the last to conduct with the other having stopped conducting.
Let's take two scenarios:
Let's take two scenarios:
- Diode 1 is fastest and has the least drop: In this case Diode 1 will start conducting first, Diode 2 will kick in and help but drop out at the end. So, the effect is that it is basically as if Diode 2 isn't there.
- Diode 1 is fastest but Diode 2 has the least drop: Diode 1 will kick in and start conducting first, then Diode 2 will start and will take it to the end. In this case the overall timeframe will be shortened slightly over just having Diode 2.
#530
OK. Let's see if I have this right. The "T" connects to the vacuum hose that runs from the top-side of the EGR valve. The other side of the "T" connects to the TGR valve. The other part of the "T" connects to the vacuum gauge. Right? During the KOER test, am I to follow the instructions and turn the steering wheel/pump the brakes? If so, will the vacuum gauge keep the readings registered? Or do I just let the test increase the idle and watch the gauge so I can see what is going on?
What I am looking to get you to do for Code 34, is "T" into the ERG Valve vacuum connection. Watch and record the different vacuum during the KOER Self-Test. You will need a vacuum gage, a vacuum “T”, and short piece of vacuum hose.
The test increases the idle a few times, during these increases the ECA will signal your EGR Solenoid to open its valve and allow the vacuum to be applied to the EGR.
There are always multiple possibilities for a single code, I think I would start there.
The test increases the idle a few times, during these increases the ECA will signal your EGR Solenoid to open its valve and allow the vacuum to be applied to the EGR.
There are always multiple possibilities for a single code, I think I would start there.
#531
OK. Let's see if I have this right. The "T" connects to the vacuum hose that runs from the top-side of the EGR valve. The other side of the "T" connects to the TGR valve. The other part of the "T" connects to the vacuum gauge. Right? During the KOER test, am I to follow the instructions and turn the steering wheel/pump the brakes? If so, will the vacuum gauge keep the readings registered? Or do I just let the test increase the idle and watch the gauge so I can see what is going on?
#532
OK. Off to get the vacuum gauge. Will let you know what I find.
Steve
Steve
#533
OK. Let's see if I have this right. The "T" connects to the vacuum hose that runs from the top-side of the EGR valve. The other side of the "T" connects to the TGR valve. The other part of the "T" connects to the vacuum gauge. Right? During the KOER test, am I to follow the instructions and turn the steering wheel/pump the brakes? If so, will the vacuum gauge keep the readings registered? Or do I just let the test increase the idle and watch the gauge so I can see what is going on?
Don't worry about the Steering wheel/Brake part of the test(may not apply to your model).
Just watch the gage the first time, skip the WOT test (you will get code 77 and maybe 25).
Then do it a second time with the WOT test.
#534
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Maine (NorCal Native)
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I gotta say ...
Steve, This has been a long challenging and complicated thread ... You have hung right in there like a champ, got a little frustrated/confused for a bit, but recovered awesomely ... I am impressed!
Bill, Vincent, Hats off for sticking it out ... That's Sticktoitiveness!
Kudos to all ...
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Steve, This has been a long challenging and complicated thread ... You have hung right in there like a champ, got a little frustrated/confused for a bit, but recovered awesomely ... I am impressed!
Bill, Vincent, Hats off for sticking it out ... That's Sticktoitiveness!
Kudos to all ...
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
#535
Test completed. In the slow KOER mode (using the Actron) the needle barely moved on the gauge and never passed beyond the zero. The Actron called for me to pump the brakes and turn the steering wheel. I did not do that. The Actron asked me to hit the throttle once. I did that but it was lame.
Codes were 41, 34, 73, 74. Going to test again and give a better throttle response.
Codes were 41, 34, 73, 74. Going to test again and give a better throttle response.
#536
Second test run with a better throttle response. Codes are back to 41 and 34. Still, the vacuum gauge reads 0. It moves in the ) range, but doesn't move out of the range.
#537
Slowly increase your Idle from under your hood to 1900 rpm.
Record the vacuum.
Last edited by vjsimone; 07-21-2016 at 12:45 PM. Reason: Adding text
#538
#539
Got a BIG 0! Cannot photograph it. My wife took her iPad and camera. She's a personal chef and takes pics of her food.
So here's the connection: one side of the "T" connects to the hose that typically connects to the EGR valve. One side of the "T" is connected to a small hose the I rigged so as to connect to the EGR. The bottom portion of the "T" is connected to the gauge.
What are your thoughts?
So here's the connection: one side of the "T" connects to the hose that typically connects to the EGR valve. One side of the "T" is connected to a small hose the I rigged so as to connect to the EGR. The bottom portion of the "T" is connected to the gauge.
What are your thoughts?