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1995 f-150 5.0. Not charging. Had the alternator tested and its good. One thing I did recently was switch the gauge cluster with my 97 to put the tachometer in the 97.
I read that the gauge cluster swap didn't affect anything but when searching for alternator issues some say that does matter. It's not a huge deal to switch them back. Just wondering what you guys think!
There were a lot of changes with the clusters through the years, especially in regards to the alternator charge light wiring (which must work for the alternator to charge the battery). However, the components inside the clusters are modular.
You can take the tachometer and temp/fuel/oil gauge modules out of the '97 cluster and put them into your '95, and it will all work. That will be your best option, and it only takes a few minutes to swap the things around.
Your cluster swap is the problem. I believe that compatible years are 92-93, 94-95, & 96-97. Mixing 92 and 94 or 97 and 95, etc won't work without rewireing the dash harness. I tried to rewire the printed circuit and just destroyed it.
Ok so I switched the clusters back and same thing. No charging. Charged up battery and seem a little weak, only about 11.2-11.4 volts. Start the truck and check voltage at battery, charge cable, and starter solenoid and all are same voltage. Pull positive cable off and truck will die.
I know it sounds stupid but did you check the fuse?
Maybe you inadvertently grounded the pin while swapping parts?
Idk abt yours, but my bricknose cluster has a resistor across the charge lamp circuit, so the truck will continue to charge even if the bulb burns out.
You cant use an led for that indicator on some older trucks.
Ok so I switched the clusters back and same thing. No charging. Charged up battery and seem a little weak, only about 11.2-11.4 volts. Start the truck and check voltage at battery, charge cable, and starter solenoid and all are same voltage. Pull positive cable off and truck will die.
Two possibilities left, the battery has lost a cell or the alternator is bad despite what the parts store bench test says. What voltage does the battery generate before it is connected to the truck? If you only get 11v then it's done time for a new one, but if it's a solid 12v-12.5v and that drops to ~11v when connected something in the truck is pulling it down and the most likely culprit is a bad rectifier or voltage regulator inside the alternator. Those parts store Alt bench tests are notoriously unreliable I have seen them produce false results first hand.