I just finished doing a complete engine swap in my 1996 7.3. The engine is a 1997. I have the truck chipped and it has a Bar None electronic fuel pump. Problem #1 is the fuel pump runs constantly and I checked to make sure it was wired correctly multiple times. Problem 2 is the truck won't start. It cranks over but won't start. Will I need to crack injectors to get it started or is there a bigger problem?

 

Also the first 3 times I tried starting it I had a bad fuel line the shot fuel out. Had to replace the line.

 

Did you put a complete electric fuel system on the truck, or just the pump? If you installed a complete system, some have reported that they had to fill the frame mounted filters before the system would get fuel to the engine. There is no way to crack an injector to bleed air out like on an old IDI engine.

 

Complete fuel system by bar none. Could the injectors be crusted over? I know the engines been sitting for a while. I don't want to start pulling injectors unless I have to

 

I opened up the line going into the fuel pressure regulator and there is no fuel inside it

 

Update- I pulled the line that pumps fuel from the tank to the regulator. It hissed when it came apart like there was pressure. I figured there may be a blockage in the line so I hooked the air hose up to it and shot air back down through the line (it was disconnected from the tank and regulator). Nothing pushed out but air and fuel. So somewhere in the regulator there is a block. I tried messing around with the set screw but the regulator won't show any pressure. Nothing is pushing out of either side of the regulator to the block either. Do I have a faulty regulator?

 

On the Bar None fuel system the two lines coming from the front of the heads to the regulator are return lines. Feed line from pump go to the banjo bolt then to rear of the heads. But maybe you knew that? If you have not done so already fill both filters with diesel to prime then try again.

If the pump runs all the time then the system is wired up incorrectly. Bar None system does not prime with key on, instead it uses the starter relay, wire nut going down to the starter solenoid to prime while cranking. Once started it then uses the oil pressure switch to keep the pump relay energized. If that is wired up correctly then the oil pressure switch is probably wired up wrong, three wires I believe.

I have the Bar None pump, filters and wiring. I could look up the wiring if needed. I did not like the Bar None top system (engine compartment, hoses, regulator) layout so I deleted it and went with Driven diesel kit instead.

 

Here is the wiring info on Bar None fuel pump / relay system. All wires had number tags on them but if they have been removed most are color coded.

1. Install the relay, I put mine on the drivers side wire wall.

2. Run the fused wire #30 (yellow) to the positive driver's side battery.

3. Run the small black wire #86 to a ground, the screw holding the relay works well.

4. Wire # 87 (red wire) should run down the frame and attach to + terminal on fuel pump.

5. The separate short black wire is the fuel pump - ground and should connect to the fuel pump plate ground screw.

OIL PRESSURE SWITCH - Marked Terminals as P S I1. Wire # 85 (blue wire) of the relay attaches to terminal P of the oil pressure switch.

2. White wire from terminal I on oil pressure switch goes to fuse tap for key on power, I used fuel bowl heater connection.

3. Long black wire goes from terminal S on oil pressure switch to power while cranking, usually the starter relay.

Note: Make a jumper wire where you can clip it on the plus side of the fuel pump. Make the wire long enough where it can reach the plus side on the passenger battery. This is temporary and can be on the ground under the truck. Once both the fuel canisters are filled with fuel touch the battery end of the wire to the plus side of the battery. The pump will turn on, flush all the air out of the system and then get real quiet. Adjust the screw on the regulator for ~ 65 PSI.

Good Luck

 

I had the return line swapped with the other. Fixed my regulator problem. But ive been cranking it over and still won't start.

 

I've been cranking the truck over to flush the air out. Pump is quiet now but still the truck won't start.

 

My water in fuel light and fuel filter light are on while I'm trying to start my truck. Would this prevent it from starting?

 

They should be on while cranking. Can you prime and check pressure on the fuel system before cranking? At least then you could eliminate fuel supply as a problem. Also recharge up the batts before trying. A little extra juice might be manatory

 

Batteries are fully charged, I have fuel in the return. Still no attempt to start. No smoke from the exhaust

 

Sprayed some starter fluid and she tried starting a little but quit. Guessing the fuel rail isn't getting fuel.

UPDATE: no fuel is coming out of the return on the regulator. It's going into the regulator but never exiting. I now have smoke coming out of the exhaust.

 

The screw on top of the regulator might be adjusted wrong. Clockwise to increase pressure and counter clockwise to reduce pressure. You really need a fuel pressure gauge on the regulator to know where you are at. Desired is 65 PSI. Also while cranking voltage is a bit lower so pump might not be putting out max pressure. It's really better to jump the fuel pump as described in my earlier post when initially adjusting fuel pressure, unless you can get the truck started, then do it.