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Gauge cluster wiring help

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Old Jul 2, 2016 | 11:43 PM
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Gauge cluster wiring help

i just bought a truck and the guy put a painless wiring harness in it, but i don't think he hooked up the gauges Name:  0996b43f802122df.gif
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Size:  162.8 KB should there be wires going to the fuel gauge/temp gauge + and - terminals? probably a stupid question, but he didn't hook them up, ive done aftermarket gauges but not factory gauge cluster.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 08:25 AM
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Is the printed circuit board in place? That is what delivers them their signal. Also, make sure the voltage regulator is in place.

Edit:
Here is my cluster I recently rebuilt:



Old circuit board on top, the new one on the bottom.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 08:31 AM
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The + and - terminals you're speaking of are the mount screws for each, nothing hooks to those. The wiring is all through that hydra cable in the pic.

Do any of the gauges work (other than speedometer)? dial lights come on when you turn the headlights on?
 
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 09:41 AM
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Ok well then he hooked everything up, and no none of the gauges work only speedo and all lights work.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 09:47 AM
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Could it be my volt regulator
 
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 12:29 PM
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FWIW, you can ditch the printed circuit altogether and wire directly to the threaded terminals on the gauges.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 02:59 PM
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speedo doesn't use the "electronics" - when you say lights are you speaking of the lights in the dash? (it would be odd to see those work but not the gauges)

You could pull the hydra cable out to see if it's got an issue making contact with the printed circuit board. I know when I took mine apart I had to be careful with it, cleaned all the contacts. Also you could put a multimeter on the hydra cable to see if you're getting "juice" to it. That should help narrow down where the issue is
 
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 05:16 PM
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Yes lights in the dash work, ill check the hydra cable
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 08:39 AM
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what should the wire coming from the fuel sending unit be showing? ohms? volts?
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 10:17 AM
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Ohms, can't remember exactly but a quick search will give you the answer you seek.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 04:19 PM
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its showing 12 ohms, so i think its working, but the gauge is ****
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 07:12 PM
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It's odd that all the gauges would be fried. wondering if the printed circuit board is suspect. You might try as mountain dewd mentioned and wire up one of the gauges directly to see if it works.

Also - is the voltage regulator in place? (monkey-1)




Also2 - if you can lift the part number off the printed circuit board we could cross-ref to make sure it's correct.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by kegger66
It's odd that all the gauges would be fried. wondering if the printed circuit board is suspect. You might try as mountain dewd mentioned and wire up one of the gauges directly to see if it works.

Also - is the voltage regulator in place? (monkey-1)




Also2 - if you can lift the part number off the printed circuit board we could cross-ref to make sure it's correct.
Ill get the part number, i need to check the regulator, see if its working, but yea all gauges just act shot, so i suspect the voltage regulator. And i was just pricing it on lmc truck earlier
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 07:19 PM
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... you can see by the LMC catalog how specific the circuit board is to the truck and/or whether it's got 4 gauges or 2 gauges/2 lights...


 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by kegger66
... you can see by the LMC catalog how specific the circuit board is to the truck and/or whether it's got 4 gauges or 2 gauges/2 lights...


Part number is D6TF-10C956-C1, i hooked small battery to the post on the fuel gauge and it pegged slowely, it was only 1.5v but atleast it works, how would i bypass to the fuel gauge? Could i wire it directly from the tank, no regualtor? I only care about the fuel gauge.
 
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