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Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum and was wondering if anyone knowa what is wrong with my truck. On the 24th I went out of town to visit family. Returning home on the 29th, I went to my truck to start it. After giving the glow plugs time to warm up, I started the truck, and as always it ran flawlessly. However, it only ran for about 3 seconds, then it died. After trying to start it back up for a good 10 seconds and getting no where, I decided to check my tank to see if my diesel was siphoned, but, as the gauge read, it had about 1/4 tank. I can't imagine the pump went bad from sitting, but at this point I'm open to any ideas as to what it can be. Any advice is appreciated, and thank you in advance.
Allso look at fuel filter head heater o rings as this is hard to see it leaking as the fuel pressure is very low on these trucks, I had your symptom's that's what mine was...
Allso look at fuel filter head heater o rings as this is hard to see it leaking as the fuel pressure is very low on these trucks, I had your symptom's that's what mine was...
I know it has a slight fuel leak in the diaphragm on top of the motor. When I tested it i think it got 5 pounds of pressure max with the leak. Maybe less, it's been a while.
welcome to FTE. first thing to do is remove the fuel filter and see if it is full, or empty.
if not full, fill it up with diesel fuel, diesel kleen, or even automatic trans fluid and reinstall.
then put at least 5 gallons of fuel in the tank.
with throttle to the floor, try to start. do not crank engine more than 30 seconds without letting sit for 2 minutes to let the starter cool off.
it may take 2-3 time to get started. once it starts, hold the idle up over 1000 rpms for a few seconds until it runs without a miss to get the air out of the fuel lines.
Personally, I say the first thing to do is have someone click the key over to run, not start, and you listen for the fuel shutoff relay to kick in. I had your exact problem and mucked about with I dont remember what till I figured out all I had was a bad connection at the relay. About 5 minutes cleaning up those contacts and good to go. Doesn't get much easier than that, so I'd start there.
Hello everyone. Other projects have gotten in the way of me really doing anything with my truck, but I got it to start. I used some starting fluid with top end lubricant, and it fired instantly and ran flawlessly. After it warms up it will start every time without an issue. I think I'm going to have to tear into the glow plugs, as I just replaced the solenoid underneath the air breather and can hear it click everytime.
You didn't tell us what year truck, it is best if you add it to your signature ...
I assume you are working on a 89.
First things first ... Ensure the Glow Plugs are Motorcraft/Beru ZD9 Glow Plugs.
If they are not, TOSS THEM as far as you possibly can into the closest lake or river! (no don't, just throw them away in the trash)
Any other Glow Plugs break the tip off and may (will) cause you to have to pull the heads to get them out of the cylinder.
Once you know they are Motorcraft/Beru ZD9, test them.
Test for 12V+ on Ignition Power with key on.
Test for 12V+ on Input from batteries
Connect a test light to To Glow Plugs so it can be seen when turning on the key, turn on key, does it light up?
Test the Glow Plugs.
How to Test Light Test the Glow Plugs:
Unplug the Glow Plug.
Attach one end of a test light to 12v+.
Touch the other end to the terminal on the end of the Glow Plug (where you unplugged the harness)
Does it light up?
Yes, Chances are it's good.
No, Replace with
83-86 - Motorcraft/Beru ZD1A.
87-94 - Motorcraft/Beru ZD9.
Reconnect the Glow Plug.
Repeat for all Glow Plugs.
This test is susceptible to miss diagnoses and should only be used for a quick reference.
To do a more positive test, use a volt/ohm meter and test the ohms between the terminal and base.
They should have .5 to 1 Ohm resistance. (Technically, .1 to 1)
They should all be close to the same.
To do an even more positive test, ask How to do a Positive Burn Test of Glow Plugs.
I would be inclined to say you have an air intrusion issue. I do too. If the truck sits for a few days, especially if it's parked at an incline, it will do the exact same thing. It's a pain in the ***. I haven't gotten around to fixing it yet, but it's on my to-do list.
if it's bad glow plugs u can dewire the glow plug relay and just give a tiny shot of ether on first start of the day ..
but dont' use the ether if even 1 glow plug is still working as the charge gets into the precups and dislodges them and causes a rattle within the heads to block ..
ether is safe IF you unhook the glow plugs .. ether is NEVER safe if you still have glow plugs ..
Wait, wait wait, this might have answered my question also...
Today, my truck didn't want to start, and it didn't want to switch tanks, unless it doesn't switch at all...I poured in 5 gallons of diesel and then it decided to start up, and the fuel gauge read it as full. Does this mean that it just has trouble starting when low on fuel? It really confuses me, because I believe I have been running off the front tank for the past 90 miles, but I don't know how to tell if it is sucking from the front tank because the fuel gauge doesn't work on the front tank. Could this shower head thing be why it didn't want to start on the front tank, because 5 gallons wouldn't bring my rear tank to full if it was sucking from the front, also, my rear tank gauge is accurate.
It's easy enough to tell ... When the rear tank is selected, the gauge shows it's using fuel from it, switch to the front tank and run a ways then flip to the back tank, is it still have the same amount of fuel ...
Now you know if it's switching.
This is what I do when I have one good gauge and one bad one ... First off, I always keep the working gauge tank full and always run on the bad gauge tank and keep some what of a watch on my mileage, when I think I'm getting low and I'm not rolling down the road I switch tanks so it don't run out at a stoplight or whatnot, then I switch back when I'm on the road.
If it runs out while rolling down the road, just switch tanks and it'll pick right back up and on down the road you go!
The indicator of a missing shower head is running out of fuel with ~1/4 tank of fuel.
This is absolutely the best photo of an '87-'94 GPC/R (Glow Plug Controller/Relay) that I have ever seen on this forum. I wish it had been here a long time ago. This needs to be the first post in the "Glow Plugs, 87 thru 94, new style system" sticky at the top of the page.
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