1972 F250
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1972 F250
Hello,
I just inherited a 1972 F250 4x4 with a 360 converted to a 390. I changed the brakes and repaired the e-brake already, but am having some trouble with the engine. It died in a parking lot yesterday and I had to get it towed, after trying adding fuel to the carburetor, jumping the battery, and starting while moving, today it started cold no problem. Any ideas?
Also I cannot locate the transmission dipstick or identify the uncapped vent rising from the valve cover on the passenger side of the engine. I have a shop manual in the mail so I'm sure that will help me out, in the meantime any help/advice is appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
I just inherited a 1972 F250 4x4 with a 360 converted to a 390. I changed the brakes and repaired the e-brake already, but am having some trouble with the engine. It died in a parking lot yesterday and I had to get it towed, after trying adding fuel to the carburetor, jumping the battery, and starting while moving, today it started cold no problem. Any ideas?
Also I cannot locate the transmission dipstick or identify the uncapped vent rising from the valve cover on the passenger side of the engine. I have a shop manual in the mail so I'm sure that will help me out, in the meantime any help/advice is appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Welcome to fte bump kingdom.
Sounds like ignition problem, Most all points & condensers are Chinese made crap, and the condensers fail any where from a few weeks after installing that junk.
I'm told the ford dealer still sells the motorcraft points & condenser.
Many guy install pointless set Pertronix units and the flamethrower coil.
If you don't have a vacuum gauge & a timing light an the voltage meter is now a good time to buy them.
Those are important simple tools for your classic vehicle that are needed.
Orich
Sounds like ignition problem, Most all points & condensers are Chinese made crap, and the condensers fail any where from a few weeks after installing that junk.
I'm told the ford dealer still sells the motorcraft points & condenser.
Many guy install pointless set Pertronix units and the flamethrower coil.
If you don't have a vacuum gauge & a timing light an the voltage meter is now a good time to buy them.
Those are important simple tools for your classic vehicle that are needed.
Orich
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,009
Likes: 250
From: North Pole, Alaska
Since you probably have a manual 4 speed most likely than a 3 speed, they both don't have dipsticks. They have fill and drain square head pipe plugs on the case. The top fill plug is removed, and you stick your finger in to check the level. If need more, just fill it with 80-90w till it starts to run out. The hose on your valve cover is part of your Positive Crankcase Ventilation system which needs to be connected to the plate under the carb. When you get your manual, you can see where it goes.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 4,093
Likes: 14
From: Lind, WA- Eastern WA
Welcome to the forum! 2X Orich's comments. Don't forget to read the sticky notes that HIO SILVER compiled at the top of the main page. It will cover a lot of subjects that you may need later on. 
Read First: Technical Info Hyperlink Compilation
Read First: Technical Info Hyperlink Compilation
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
rising from the valve cover on the passenger side of the engine. Right (passenger side) valve cover at the rear: Rubber grommet fits in the hole, smog valve fits in the rubber grommet. PCV hose routes from valve to carb spacer plate or to nipple on carb.
Left (drivers side) valve cover at the front: Oil cap has a hole in it. Rubber grommet fits in the hole, plastic elbow fits in the grommet. PCV hose routes from elbow to nipple on air cleaner.
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