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Old Jun 30, 2016 | 06:42 PM
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Skagewa
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From: Thornton CO
Hello again everybody

So, I've been having a problem starting my vehicle but now it doesn't even crank. I have power so my batteries are good. I was thinking it might be my starter or alternator but I thought I'd ask you all again since everybody here is so damn helpful its incredible.
Its a 1986 f250 RWD standard transmission.
Feel free to ask me questions on my vehicle and thank you guys again!!!
 
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Old Jun 30, 2016 | 06:47 PM
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From: Thornton CO
let re re explain the power thing. I have power to my brakes but not to my headlights, horn, glow plug button, and aux.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2016 | 02:59 AM
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remove and clean all battery connections even if they look fine... buy a charger,, if it has wheels you got a good one...if you got a 6 amp charger it will take 24 hours to charge two batts. electricity is a finicky bitch. must be clean connections.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2016 | 09:53 AM
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Yes, and check/clean the connections at the other end of the battery cables too. Ground to block, hot to relay.

To help with diagnostics understand the alternator does nothing but keep your batteries charged. It has absolutely nothing to do with starting and providing power to accessories. You can remove the alternator from your truck and throw it in the dumpster and your truck will still start and run fine. [When the truck is functional of course.]

Also, since you are lacking power to accessories this tells you it's not a starter problem; the starter does not distribute power to anything, it only turns the engine over.

You have an electrical problem, bad connections, bad wire(s), burnt fuseable link; something along those lines.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 11:43 AM
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Mine had the same problem a few years back. There is a yellow wire maybe 10 or 12 gauge that runs on the passenger side fender from the area of the glow plug relay along the harness into the firewall. That is the main power for the fuse panel with the truck in run. There is a connector in it from the factory that likes to burn out. I bypassed the factory connector and soldered the wires and have not had a problem since.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2016 | 05:13 PM
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From: Thornton CO
So, I got it running but shortly after the test run I used my turn signal and it died... so it's a wiring issue right?
Anybody have references regarding this?
Sorry for my lack of knowledge about the problem... and thanks again!
 
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Old Jul 5, 2016 | 09:16 PM
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Definitely sounds like exactly what I had happen. If you want a picture of the wire I'm talking about I can attach one in the morning
 
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Old Jul 6, 2016 | 10:05 AM
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From: Thornton CO
Originally Posted by monte97z
Definitely sounds like exactly what I had happen. If you want a picture of the wire I'm talking about I can attach one in the morning
that'd be great
 
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Old Jul 6, 2016 | 01:50 PM
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The thick yellow wire that is connected to the green and orange wires. Where the electrical tape is was the factory connector, that connector had the yellow wire as well as a thin green wire in it. The connector was shot so I bypassed it.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2016 | 10:21 AM
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From: Thornton CO
Originally Posted by monte97z
The thick yellow wire that is connected to the green and orange wires. Where the electrical tape is was the factory connector, that connector had the yellow wire as well as a thin green wire in it. The connector was shot so I bypassed it.
I've never done a bypass before any tips before I go through and do it?
Also I can take a picture of my problem but there is a purple wire with a cap on it and I'm not sure where it goes. I saw that there is a red cap with a wire of about the same size and its connected to the solenoid next to the battery on the passenger side.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2016 | 01:15 AM
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Can you attach a picture so I can see the wires? My harness has been altered a bit lol. And bypassing is no big deal, find the bad section of wire cut it out and replace it with the same gauge wire you removed. Soldering is better but crimp connectors are just as good if done properly.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 09:37 AM
  #12  
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Skagewa
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From: Thornton CO
Originally Posted by monte97z
Can you attach a picture so I can see the wires? My harness has been altered a bit lol. And bypassing is no big deal, find the bad section of wire cut it out and replace it with the same gauge wire you removed. Soldering is better but crimp connectors are just as good if done properly.
I got home a little late last night but managed to get a few shots before heading in.
If you need different angles I can redo them just let me know.

I don't know why the purple wire is connected to the solenoid in that last picture I guess I was too tired that I put it there for that last picture.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 02:00 PM
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The connector that I circled is the one I am talking about. I ended up not be able to separate it to check it, but when I cut it out the bottom was melted. Was giving me the exact symptoms you are having. And I'm not sure what that purple wire is for, your harness looks more intact then mine is. I'm sure someone here will be able to tell you what it does tho.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 02:40 PM
  #14  
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Skagewa
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From: Thornton CO
Originally Posted by monte97z
The connector that I circled is the one I am talking about. I ended up not be able to separate it to check it, but when I cut it out the bottom was melted. Was giving me the exact symptoms you are having. And I'm not sure what that purple wire is for, your harness looks more intact then mine is. I'm sure someone here will be able to tell you what it does tho.
So what Im thinking you're telling me is that I need to cut that **** off and then bypass it by just reconnecting it without that connector right?
 
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 03:04 PM
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That's exactly what I ended up doing. You can disconnect the connector and check the connections first, your problem may be further down, but that connector is not really necessary. Just as easy to remove it and connect the wires with out it. Just make sure you keep yellow to yellow and green with green but they are very different sizes so it would be noticeable if you crossed them.
 
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