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Does it make any differnce that in the winter the heater works as it should, never gets cold but regulates the temperature as it should?
Not necessarily, Steve. My 97 Explorer had the opposite problem, winter arrived and no heat. The blend door actuator had died in the MAX A/C setting. The actuator was behind the glove box so while I researched finding the part, I built a manual control. It was the wife's ride so waiting for a part was not a good excuse for not having heat. Once the new actuator was installed, all worked perfectly. jim
I recently had my blend door doing this same kabuki dance. My blend door is electronically control and the circuit board associated with the temp control at the dash had cracked solder connections on the connector sending voltage to the servo. Hard to see sometimes but easy to reflow joint with a soldering pencil (30w-40w) and some rosin core solder. The picture shows what the crack looks like.
BINGO! Mine acts it would have to be an intermittent power issue to the door be it from the actuator or the potentiometer, given it works in the winter would make me thinks it could be more related to the actuator, I checked for the potentiometer parts and the dash parts are not available.
BINGO! Mine acts it would have to be an intermittent power issue to the door be it from the actuator or the potentiometer, given it works in the winter would make me thinks it could be more related to the actuator, I checked for the potentiometer parts and the dash parts are not available.
How were you able to access this?
Once you have the Dash faceplate taken off you'll see the 3 screws that hold the Climate Control assembly. Take those out and the circuit board is facing you on top. I believe it's the only connection on the board. Treat any connector (electronic or vacuum) gently when you unplug. Some of the plastic can be brittle, especially nipples for mating to vac lines.
You can see the 3 screws. The circuit board is on a horizontal plane behind the Temperature slide control.
I recently had my blend door doing this same kabuki dance. My blend door is electronically control and the circuit board associated with the temp control at the dash had cracked solder connections on the connector sending voltage to the servo. Hard to see sometimes but easy to reflow joint with a soldering pencil (30w-40w) and some rosin core solder. The picture shows what the crack looks like.
OMG, I can't believe I forgot this! Thanks Jeffrey, for the catch. BTW, the far left solderpad will be the next to go, the cracking is already started. Best to reflow ALL the joints while it is out. Great info. jim
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