Today I was changing my brake lines because my orginal brake line got torn off by a limb a couple of week ago. So I get under there and remove the old brake line and took it to the local autozone to see if they could match it. I took it to them and they matched it, supposedly. I then took it home and had troble getting a SAE wrench to fit it, and it wouldn't thread right. I took it back to autozone and they gave me another and assured me it would work. I come home and put it on and bleed them. I know on the side that goes to the tee I had to do a slight mod and cut the threads down a little with the grinder to get it to thread, but this side threaded just a hair. I tightened it 'till it was snug...2 turns ...I needed the truck so I just left it and bled 'em and off I went. Only problem is that it leaked (going into the wheelcylinder). So I go to tighen it up and all it does is spin and brakefluid starts dripping on me. I go to take it off and now I can't get it off. What do I do!?!? Do I need to head to the junkyard and find another FoMoCo line and drum assembly or is there any way I may be able to get this one to work with a little massaging intul the line gets down to the deeper threads? how do I get it off???? HELP!

 

Are you talking about where the brake hose connects to the brake lines on the rear axle?

if you are, you need to go buy a 3/16 to 5/16 inverted flare adapter. for some reason, ford used a 5/16 fitting on the driver's side rear hose, instead of a regular 3/16.

the passenger side is normal though.

btw, the drum fittings on the Master cylinder are 5/16 as well and the proportion(sp?) valve below. however, in the rear of the valve, it changes to an even bigger size (i think 3/8") which if you ever have to replace the line the whole way back, you need to find that weird adapter.

 

Where are you at on the truck? I think from reading you are at the rear at one of the rear wheels? If so, just go buy another wheel cylinder if the threads are damaged, and install it. They are cheap. Also, don't let them give you a universal replacement line that is metric. Get the SAE line. The correct line will have a long threaded nut on one end, and a shorter nut on the other end. Also, look at the end of the line where it is flared. The correct line will be flared and sort of look a like a speaker cone. Ask to go back and take a look yourself, and you will see the different styles of lines. I used the universal lines myself, and they work ok, except in the sizes they carry, one is too short and the other is too long. I use the one that is too long, putting a few little extra zig-zags here and there to use up the extra length.

 

Thanks......hyow hard is the wheel cylinder to replace? And how much money are you talking about to replace them assuming it just had a brake job about a month ago....and they haven't been used in about 3 weeks of that month?

 

Hi Wild Jon,
During the following procedures please be sure to block the front wheels and do not set the emergency brake. If your vehicle is an automatic put it in park. If it is a manual transmission then put it in first gear.

If you want to remove the line put a pair of vise grips on the line at the cylinder and adjust them to egg shape the line end threads just enough to grab some threads in the cylinder and back out the line carefully.
If it seems as though it is starting to strip again just grab it with the vise grips and egg shape it again. Be sure to egg shape it in the same direction as the first time. You only want the threads to barely grab enough to come out not enough to cross thread the cylinder again. The steel that the line is made of is usually weaker than the wheel cylinder steel. Check to see if the line is badly stripped or the cylinder.
Inspect the cylinder for wear on the threads after you remove the line. I'll assume that you had one good end left on the old line that got broken by the branch. Fold over one end of that line and crimp it down tight to use it as plug in the wheel cylinder. Screw the good end of the line into the wheel cylinder.
You'll need to get any metal fragments out of the wheel cylinder if any went in. If you don't see any, fill the master cylinder with fluid and hook a hose to the bleeder screw on the wheel cylinder. Open the bleeder screw. Put about an inch of new clean brake fluid in the bottom of a glass jar. Put the open end of the hose in the jar submerged in the brake fluid. Press once or twice on the brake pedal to purge any metal fragments from the cylinder. Remove the crimped brake line. Put the new (SAE) line into the cylinder and attach it to the "T" over the differential (i would think that is where it goes). After you have the brake line installed bleed the brakes as needed starting with the cylinder or caliper furthest from the master cylinder. After evacuating all of the air your system should be ready to stop you on a dime.

On the other hand...If you elect to change the cylinder.
The rear wheel cylinder is really not that hard to replace. If you work it right you don't even have to remove the shoes to do it. Be sure to block the front wheels before you jack the vehicle up. Do not set the parking brake. Place the vehicle in park or first gear. Remove the wheel after you jack it up and adjust the brake on that wheel until it is loose enough to allow the drum to be removed. Remove the drum. If you have to use a hammer to remove it be sure to wear safety glasses as rust and metal fragments may fly into your eyes. With the drum off...Just pry the shoes back far enough to allow removal of the wheel cylinder and secure them into place. Remove the two bolts that hold the cylinder in place (in your case with the line attached). Install the new cylinder and then the new brake line that you test fitted at the auto parts store before you left the store. Reverse the dis-assembly procedures and follow the above listed bleeding procedures. Don't forget to re-adjust the brake that you loosened.
Hope this helps you out.

DISCLAIMER (LOL)
Please remember that these are only suggestions and opinions on how to do this repair. No one says that you have to use or believe what you read. You do so at your own risk!
And Remember....

 

Thanks. I got the line out. I should be able to get it back together in 30 mins (as I find rear drums easy to change, just them springs hurt when they getcha) when I get a change to run to the parts store.