Pulled the yoke, pulled the 1 1/8" nut. Used a reverse puller to pull the flange.

Popped out the old seal by starting one side with a small chisel, only lifting the edge. Then worked my way around with a flat screw driver.

Once off the pinion seemed to move easily, but I didn't touch it much. Used a block of wood to tap in the new seal. Re-seated the flange. However it got all the down, but would turn right a little and come out. It wasn't sliding out, but as if it was seating and coming forward?

So pulled the flange again and started over. Same thing. This time I just kept tapping and fingering tightening. It got closer even with its slight turn. I torqued it back to where it was but now the flange has play in it. Probably a 1/4" ? I didn't measure.

The reason I did this was because it was leaking and I've had some slight squealing from the rear. This truck sat for three years and I recently started driving it again. When I pulled the flange there wasn't much oil leaking out so I'm sure it was low.

What did I do wrong? I'm assuming that play or slack shouldn't be there.

--EDIT: It's not a quarter inch. It's has a little play trying to turn it. It is NOT moving up and down or side to side.

 

I need to do mine also and was reading up on it. The book says to measure the torque needed to turn the diff. with a torque wrench first before you take it apart. This way when it goes back together you can get the same preload on it. That is most important. Could be the play you are describing is just between the ring and pinion. Mine has a bit also. The squeeling is probably one of your axle bearings dying on you. Let that go too long and it will cost you about 200 bucks for a new axle, bearings and diff. fluid. Just went through that with mine. The bearings and seals are cheap compared to the axle and fluid. Use bearings made in the USA. I did both about 4 months ago, one bearing was Chinese. That's the one that crapped out on the highway and toasted my axle. Good luck with your repairs. You can check the bearings by lifting the wheel off the ground and putting a 2x4 under the tire and lifting up. It shouldn't move much at all. If it does it is time.

 

All is well. I was just paranoid. Friend of mine is a mechanic. He took a look at told me once the crush sleeve is crushed, the preload is set. So just tighten it back up and and keep turning the pinion flange to ensure i didnt get it too tight, then he did it for me lol. By all means count the threads and or measure the in/lb, I skipped that step and hence why I freaked. Mine now has 7 threads showing.

My diff was incredibly low on oil. Now that I have it all put back the clink when backing up is gone and the slight squeal. I will do the axle bearings soon as it's 16 years old and never been done.

Oh my truck is a 2000 f150 lariat 5.4L 4x4 9.75" rearend.

 

Glad to hear it's all good. Do both axles at the same time. I rent a puller from O'Reilly's. Takes about 5 minutes to pop one out. Have a nice day.

 

Good to know. My goal is to put this truck back to when I bought her new. Think I have a CV or something making a clink sound in the front now.... #&$@!!!! Oh well, guess I'll start diagnosing this... where that search button. LOL