When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Do I need to remove the coils to pull the radius arms all the way out?
I'm asking because I need to take one off and get it straightened and I will need to plan for a spring compressor. If I have to go this far I think I am going to save and get the 3 in. lift kit I have wanted.
I had planned to get ole' Bess II back on the road this year but that is not in the cards so I have a few months to save.
The 3/4"-10 x 6" long grade-8 bolt goes up hrough the the bottom of the forward end of the radius arm, through the I-beam and out through the upper end of the radius arm and attaches to the lower ends of the coil springs.
There are two 3/4"-10 prevailing torque lock nuts on each bolt. They're tightened to beejeezus ft-lbs of torque. You'll need a 1-1/8" socket and a 1-1/8" end wrench to break them loose.
....if you had a '75-'79 F100 - F350 front sway bar on your truck, the 3/4"-10 bolt would also go through the endlink bracket attached to the forward ends of the radius arms.
I-beam connected to radius arm, coil spring (and the '78 F250 CS sway bar endlink bracket) on my truck.
If you have 4wd then stop reading because I haven't looked at their front end, but if you have 2wd then maybe I can help.
No need for a spring compressor. To fully lower the I beam, remove the little bracket on the end. No need to separate the radius arm from the I beam unless it's easier for who ever straightens the radius arm. You can use an impact wrench or a long handle breaker bar to take off the huge nut. Then to reinstall the huge nut, I would clamp the I beam in a bench vise and then set your torque wrench to "beejeezus".
This is a good time to replace the I beam bushings...btw.
What did you do to your poor truck to bend a radius arm?
Edit: My reasoning for taking the I beam off is that I'm guessing you'll be taking the arm to a shop and they may need the I beam to test fit after straightening the arm.
Okay. I'm a bit confused. One says I need to remove the spring and someone else says I don't need to. If the spring end plate is on top of the radius arm, How do I remove the arm w/o compressing the spring?
Looking at it, seems like you definitely need to remove the spring.
Okay. I'm a bit confused. One says I need to remove the spring and someone else says I don't need to. If the spring end plate is on top of the radius arm, How do I remove the arm w/o compressing the spring?
Looking at it, seems like you definitely need to remove the spring.
There's a thin metal strap securing the upper end of the coil spring to the under side of the upper spring cup/bracket. There are two 3/8"-16 bolts in each of the straps. They will require a 9/16" end wrench or socket to remove.
The 1st 3/4"-10 nut removed from the lower end of the coil spring will allow the coil to come loose if you drop the suspension down, after these are taken loose. After the 2nd 3/4"-10 nut is taken loose, the long bolt can be removed. The 3/4"-10 nut at the back end of the radius arm will have to be removed to remove the radius arm --although, with the I-beams attached at their pivots, you MAY have some difficulty removing the radius arm(s) IF the I-beams are in their way.
If the I-beam, radius arm bushings and the kingpins/kingpin bushings have never been replaced since you've had the truck and if you're going to be taking any of the suspension apart, it would probably be best to drop the entire front suspension and replace these items while things are apart.
If this is the route you take, it would probably be best to drop the whole front suspension and then break it down to refurbish the consumable parts.
This is a '72 F100 drum brake front suspension I just removed last weekend (to replace it with a '75 disc brake front suspension) but, its attachment points and things to take loose are the same for a '72 F250 with front discs.
There's nothing for a spring compressor to do. Once you remove the retainer or travel limiter or whatever it's called, the spring will separate from the upper perch on the truck. On my '65 there's no washer holding the bottom of the coil so the coil will just fall on the ground when the I beam is fully lowered. Later trucks added the washer shown in Ultraranger's first photo. I like to remove the brakes and knuckles to reduce weight but Ultraranger's second photo shows the assembly well.
I've never seen a radius arm straightened so I don't know if it's better to have the I beam attached or not. Either way, you'll only be one huge nut away from separating the I beam from the arm.
After thinking about this, it's possible we're leaving out some details. You can see where Ultraranger has the truck frame resting on jack stands. You'll have to use a jack to support the I beam under the spring while you remove any retainer brackets. Then just lower the assembly and drag it from under your truck.
Oh man, I was so fixated the idea of the spring needing to be compressed I didn't see how simple it was to just undo the Ibeams and drop the whole deal. Awesome! I will need to remove the calipers first though. Or else I may not get them off.
Thanks again guys. Feel silly some time but, I'd rather feel silly than Stoopid.
like with the waterpump bolt. That still stings.
Oh man, I was so fixated the idea of the spring needing to be compressed I didn't see how simple it was to just undo the Ibeams and drop the whole deal. Awesome! I will need to remove the calipers first though. Or else I may not get them off.
Thanks again guys. Feel silly some time but, I'd rather feel silly than Stoopid.
like with the waterpump bolt. That still stings.
Here are some step-by-step instructions I wrote, and the tools needed, when I removed the front suspension from my truck.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
