A penny fits perfectly between the bottom of the egr and the tube compression flare. Place the penny inside the nut of the egr tube and torque it down.

 

The TAB & TAD solenoids (Thermactor/air injection system) must be kept on the harness if you don't go into the programming & delete their function. (If that s possible & I don't know)

You said above you were going to do that with the EGR rather than keep it.

 

now that's what i'm talkin' about… thanks for tip!


(gotta love this FTE site)

 

Let me start over...

I am planning to "delete" EGR, or as it turns out, "disable" it. From my understanding, I can just keep the valve installed but capped with a penny, and as long as TAB/TAD/EGR electrical connections are hooked up the computer won't really know the difference. Back of heads will be bolted with 5/8 11 tpi.

Or were you saying I could actually delete the EGR valve (but everything else from above) and just plate off the throttle body where it attaches? (But maybe not, as wouldn't the computer need to get some kind of feedback from the EGR actuator?).

Thanks for your patience (and experience). It is appreciated. The goal is to make the motor run, but as simply (and cleanly) as possible. ("Clean" as in aesthetics, not pollution... as this will be emissions exempt in this old truck).

 

Yea, the idea is to simply trick the computer.

you need the valve plugged in with vacuum running to it from the vac canister to solenoid, solenoid to egr valve. Doesn't matter where you mount it in the cab, but if it doesn't make any difference to you, the stock location is the easiest.

 

I'm sorry, my bad.

Hard to keep a lot of things/threads in line/in mind & order.

Yes, you can leave the EGR valve electrically connected on this model (like the TAB/TAD solenoids).

Used to, there were companies that sold a resistor(?) pack/dongel/doo-hicky, that plugged in EGR connector & the ECU would "see" it as the valve & not set a code. Also there are programmers (but I don't know if they "support" your particular "batch code" ECU) that can be edited to delete certain functions.

Hope I haven't made things worse.

 

what about EVAP canister??

can i get rid of this system and keep the PCM happy? just vent tube from the tank?

thanks

 

did this today... however, seems like i "bottomed out" (ran out of threads) just before 1" bolt head against head (like 1/16th gap). guess i'll need to add a washer... dumb question: why copper? (ace hardware didn't have them, which is why i tried the anti-seize method first).

thannks.

 

Copper is a good high temp gasket in exhaust applications.

You could try it without anything & see if you have a leak & if you don't, go on about your business.

 

Copper washers "crush" to provide a better seal. Any washer should do the trick there, it's not as if you're trying to seal high pressure fluid, where copper would be optimal.

 

My question would be, are you planning on adding a check engine light indicator?

If yes, then follow previous mentioned input on the egr/tad/tab and how to keep the check engine light off.

If not, throw it all in the trash or sell it. Ive had all the emissions junk delete for years, bought a bare longblock, didnt source those parts. The only negative being a check engine light but i made mine selective, only turn it on if i want it to flash codes out.

As far as, the point on the upper intake, where the egr valve mounts to the intake. If you remove it, your left with three holes. Two are threaded blind holes, nothing required. The third, center opening, needs to be plugged. I opted for a "freeze plug", cost 25 cents and one of your local parts stores will have one. Drive it in and put the ugly egr valve on a shelf somewhere. I dont have the measurement.

you can buy the plugs for the back of the cylinder heads, still available.

You may have asked about the coffee can looking thing, vacuum reservoir. Ive had mine removed since the truck was almost new with no issue.

The headers wont affect the stock tune. Higher compression (within reason) should only make the combustion process more efficient with the correct octane fuel. Something to be aware of, 351w doesnt use a knock sensor like the 4.9/5.0.

I also bypassed the coolant line that runs through the throttle body but i dont do much sub freezing driving with my truck.

Your results may vary but this is my two cents on these things.

 

great feedback, thanks... you know, hadn't even thought of the check engine light! i'm preoccupied trying to figure out which wires in which harnesses i need to keep. made some progress today -- presumably somewhere in this mess-o-wires is a bulb/socket for the check engine light.

coolant and vacuum lines are next... haven't had much luck finding good schematics yet. got any photos?

 

Google images search will have those images.

 

yeah, no luck really yet. i'll keep digging. all the diagrams are just simple line drawings from overhead. i need to see front of motor (coolant) and around/under manifold (vacuum). i'm sure i'll figure it out when the time comes.

 

So to confirm, I don't need vacuum to TAB/TAD, just harness?
But I would need both for EGR... what if there were no vacuum to EGR? I guess PCM would tell solenoid to open vacuum, but then sensor would see valve not open and throw a code I s'pose?

Thanks.