The engine oil drain plug is horizontal, as is the spinon filter, on these vehicles. The drain plug has metric threads that are M12-1.75 pitch.

I plan to put in a Fumoto F-107N engine oil drain valve, that has a nipple for a 3/8" ID hose to drain. This will allow me to send the crankcase drain oil to wherever I desire. I plan to leave that hose connected to the drain valve, and rig some zip ties to hold it in place when not in use. A plug will go in the free end of the hose, to keep the inside clean, so oil samples taken thru this hose will not be contaminated. I have not decided if I want the hose nipple inline with the drain plug threads or to make a 90 degree turn from the drain plug threads. The Fumoto F-107SX has a mounting "banjo-bolt" which allows the orientation to be changed, and then has a nipple at 90 degrees to the "banjo-bolt" access.

This is a listing of the possible valves and accessories for our vehicle:
Search Results | Fumoto® Engine Oil Drain Valves

Here is the manufacturer's description & picture of the "straight valve"
F107N | Fumoto® Engine Oil Drain Valves

This is the .pdf on installation and operation.
http://www.fumotousa.com/img/Origina...-Operation.pdf

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When I perform the first oil change in a week or so, I will first make sure that I can turn the filter body slightly, to be sure that I will be able to remove it. I will continue by putting a hole in the end of the filter body at the lowest point, with a large nail or spike. Next placing a pan or tray underneath this nail, and then pulling the nail out of the body, to let the oil drain from the filter. It may be necessary to put another hole higher up in the filter body, if the body becomes airlocked, and oil won't flow out smoothly with only the lower hole.

 

The drain plug is not a problem at all. And the filter already has a factory installed pan with pour spout leading towards the front bumper. You'll have no room to do any of the things you mentioned for the filter. Puncturing the filter would probably work though if you could reach it to do so.

 

Agreed! I will wait for feedback on that first oil change mentioned above. I've been changing my own oil my entire life. This one is making me consider the dealership and reading a newspaper in the waiting room while some technician says all the four-letter words instead of me.


I've always said the engineers who design these vehicles should be required to drive and maintain them for at least 2 years before they ever allow them on the road. I feel your pain!!

 

Teaspoon or two puddle on garage floor this morning Tuesday spooked me because there was none Monday am after changing oil Sunday.

I assumed it was drippings still in pan, but....

Guess I'm old school, like to do changes myself, reaching the oil filter probably the most difficult of any vehicle I've ever owned.

On a number of the boats I've owned with inboard engine they had remote oil filters. So on a typical Merc which was a Chevy block, instead of reaching to bottom of engine they had plumbed high pressure oil lines to remote fitting on top of engine.

 

They make remote kits for land vehicles also. Not sure about the Ecoboost specifically, but they were available for the 5.4 from a number of sources in both single and dual filter set ups.

 

Performed the first oil change today, at 4,317 miles from new.

The engine oil level on the dipstick, showed slightly above full, I had not added any makeup oil. Pulled the filler cap off the driver side valve cover, so the engine would drain ASAP.

Used a wheel lift in one of my customers shops, wanted to do a full underbody inspection, also.

Removed the rear plastic pan, and access to the horizontal drain plug was pretty easy. It splashed/sprayed some at first when it came shooting out. I will install a Fumoto valve, and with a short hose on it, drain oil and samples may be taken without mess, or getting hands or a wrench oily. I'll put a plug in, or a sock over the end of the hose, to keep it clean and uncontaminated. The sump drained quick enough, and reinstalled the plug.

There are two black square closeoff pieces of plastic in the metal pan under the engine. I removed the one that is forward and near the center, by turning it 45 degrees. This opening is centered just below where the catch funnel, mounted just below the base of the filter, will drain out from.

Then I turned the white plastic fasteners and dropped the driver side of the front apron. access to the high mounted horizontal spinon filter on the front of the motor, was a reach, but doable. After turning the filter a few turns the oil came out of the crease at the bottom of the built-in filter drain funnel. It drained fairly quickly, and then I removed the filter. The AMSOIL synthetic filter I put on has a fluted cap, and I used a metal cap wrench with a 3/8" drive short ratchet wrench to snug it up.

I installed 6 quarts of full synthetic 0w30, and the dipstick showed in the middle of the OK range. This oil is label rated for 15,000 mile oil change intervals in severe service, turbocharged usage. On this vehicle, it may be limited by fuel dilution, future oil sampling will answer that question. Winter in Wisconsin, should be the worst season for fuel dilution the way that I use the vehicle.

 

The tray on my 15 seems to be made of an absorbent material?

It requires removal for the draining the oil pan.

I removed it, trimmed it so I never have to remove it again, and reinstalled.

 

So why didn't you punch a hole in the filter with a nail and put a drain pan directly under the nail, like you announced you would do? It sounds like you did it just like the rest of us. Welcome to the club. I have to admit I chuckled when I read your intentions of driving a nail into the filter and putting a drain under it. Also, one more thing--try that on the ground or with a set of ramps or jack stands. You cheated by using your friend's lift.

 

I have a Fumoto on my Excursion and the Mountaineer and have ordered one for the new Expy. They are the best thing I have found for the home oil changer. Hook a hose to it, put it straight in an old jug that goes to the recycle, and let it drain. The oil catch pan is then only needed for the oil filter, which on this vehicle is the worst access I have had on a Ford yet. If someone would make a home version of what the automotive wreckers use to drain filters I would buy it. Its basically a set of pliers with a needle that punctures the oil filter. It has a hose that then sucks the oil out of the filter. That would let us completely drain it before unscrewing it. Maybe something like this, only easier to use while reaching: