Self adjusters on front drums?
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FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: paradise, northern calif.
Self adjusters on front drums?
Hi guys, I'm replacing my front drum brakes as part of the broken stud replacement can of worms I opened when I got new tires. I figured why not, I've already replaced the studs bearings and races, so I may as well replace all brake parts and hose while I'm at it. My question is "My truck didn't come with self adjusters on the front, and wonder if I should add them". I put them on the rears when I did the axle swap, but when it comes to the front I'm thinking Id like to have the control to fine tune the adjustments in case of any pulling to one side or the other. And as always your opinions are always appreciated.
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Self adjusting brakes were introduced in 1961 FoMoCo Passenger Cars, 1964 E100 & F100 2WD, 1967 F100 4WD, Bronco & F250.
These were problematic from day one as the cable would snap, the adjusters would rust, and they only work (if they work at all!) when you back up and step on the brake pedal.
Pic: 2A176 right front/rear & 2A177 left front/rear adjusting levers; 2A178 right/left front/rear cables; 2A179 right/left front/rear cable guides.
These were problematic from day one as the cable would snap, the adjusters would rust, and they only work (if they work at all!) when you back up and step on the brake pedal.
Pic: 2A176 right front/rear & 2A177 left front/rear adjusting levers; 2A178 right/left front/rear cables; 2A179 right/left front/rear cable guides.
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FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: paradise, northern calif.
Self adjusting brakes were introduced in 1961 FoMoCo Passenger Cars, 1964 E100 & F100 2WD, 1967 F100 4WD, Bronco & F250.
These were problematic from day one as the cable would snap, the adjusters would rust, and they only work (if they work at all!) when you back up and step on the brake pedal.
Pic: 2A176 right front/rear & 2A177 left front/rear adjusting levers; 2A178 right/left front/rear cables; 2A179 right/left front/rear cable guides.
These were problematic from day one as the cable would snap, the adjusters would rust, and they only work (if they work at all!) when you back up and step on the brake pedal.
Pic: 2A176 right front/rear & 2A177 left front/rear adjusting levers; 2A178 right/left front/rear cables; 2A179 right/left front/rear cable guides.
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22,000
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From: Rio Rancho, NM
Jim,
They are easily adaptable from later trucks. I've never had issues with the self adjusting brakes. Its a good, simple system that is a big improvement over non-adjusting brakes.
I think you have to buy both the "spring" kit and the "hardware" kit to get everything you need for the upgrade. You'll have parts let over. I just told the NAPA guys that Had a 69 1/2 ton and they fixed me up with all the goodies.
Have fun
Bobby
They are easily adaptable from later trucks. I've never had issues with the self adjusting brakes. Its a good, simple system that is a big improvement over non-adjusting brakes.
I think you have to buy both the "spring" kit and the "hardware" kit to get everything you need for the upgrade. You'll have parts let over. I just told the NAPA guys that Had a 69 1/2 ton and they fixed me up with all the goodies.
Have fun
Bobby
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Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,350
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From: Maryland
Jim,
They are easily adaptable from later trucks. I've never had issues with the self adjusting brakes. Its a good, simple system that is a big improvement over non-adjusting brakes.
I think you have to buy both the "spring" kit and the "hardware" kit to get everything you need for the upgrade. You'll have parts let over. I just told the NAPA guys that Had a 69 1/2 ton and they fixed me up with all the goodies.
Have fun
Bobby
They are easily adaptable from later trucks. I've never had issues with the self adjusting brakes. Its a good, simple system that is a big improvement over non-adjusting brakes.
I think you have to buy both the "spring" kit and the "hardware" kit to get everything you need for the upgrade. You'll have parts let over. I just told the NAPA guys that Had a 69 1/2 ton and they fixed me up with all the goodies.
Have fun
Bobby
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FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: paradise, northern calif.
Thanks guys, I already have bought new cylinders hoses, standard shoe springs, mounting kit and shoes, so all I need is the self adjuster kits like I did for the rears. Ill sleep on it and decide what I want to do, then ROCK ON . Thanks for sharing your experience with them, I wasn't sure if they would adjust evenly or not. "EDIT" Parts are ordered ,I did need both kits by the way to get the right spring, thanks again Bill, Bobby, and pweng.
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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 791
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From: Louisville
You will have to trim the grease catcher on the backing plates (if present) to allow room for the cable and spring. There's nothing problematic about self-adjusters, they work fine and are a heckuva lot better than having to jack up the truck every month or two, IMHO.
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FTE fan
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From: paradise, northern calif.
Thanks for that bit of info on trimming the box, it surly would have confused me like most things do.LOL
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The cable always goes on the rear side, it appears you have the passenger side correct but the driver's side backwards? Your adjuster link at the bottom is also backwards, if I'm interpreting correctly?
Have you checked to see if the adjusting wheels are the correct "hand" for the self-adjuster? In other words, will downward movement of the self-adjuster lever expand the shoes, or loosen them?
Have you checked to see if the adjusting wheels are the correct "hand" for the self-adjuster? In other words, will downward movement of the self-adjuster lever expand the shoes, or loosen them?
Thread Starter
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FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: paradise, northern calif.
The cable always goes on the rear side, it appears you have the passenger side correct but the driver's side backwards? Your adjuster link at the bottom is also backwards, if I'm interpreting correctly?
Have you checked to see if the adjusting wheels are the correct "hand" for the self-adjuster? In other words, will downward movement of the self-adjuster lever expand the shoes, or loosen them?
Have you checked to see if the adjusting wheels are the correct "hand" for the self-adjuster? In other words, will downward movement of the self-adjuster lever expand the shoes, or loosen them?
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FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: paradise, northern calif.
That's what I was thinking. Last night was one of those nights I spent with the truck in boxers B4 I could sleep. You were right about the adjuster threads being wrong ,plus like you said they must be on the back shoe (longer shoe) for them to work. I will probably Dremel an adjuster slot on the rear of the drivers backing plate and jut plug the original with an extra rubber plug. Then re install the set up the way you described ( on the back shoe). Thank you for your help, as always. I was a little, or a lot confused as usual.
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FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: paradise, northern calif.
After modifying the drivers side backing plate by adding an adjusting spoon slot in the proper place and mounting the upper spring loops upside down to make them work, I think I'm good to go, once I bleed out the air, and do some preliminary adjustments. I finally got the self adjusters both on the rear shoe Thanks to Ross, got the grease catchers trimmed thanks to Beav. And both adjusters are threaded to expand when they are supposed to, again thanks to Ross. Ill update the thread when it works on the road, and not just in theory. Thanks everybody for hanging in with me, this one was more confusing than I originally thought, since the front backing plates and spring sets were not made to work together on an F1.