Help!
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Macedonia Ohio
Help!
Hey everyone, I don't know exactly how to explain what is going on with my motor (352 fe block) here so bare with me here...
I am having troubles with over heating and an extreme amount of pressure in the radiator. The radiator hoses will swell up like a ballon when idling for a short amount of time and coolant will leak from the block, however I am not having the white smoke or frothy oil like I would with a blown head gasket. Also the temp gauge won't be reading anything, and after its ran the radiator will be completely low. The truck will then back fire a lot through the carb and then blow smoke out of the oil fill. I feel like I'm at my wits end with this! The head gaskets are new and the heads tourqed down to specs, all new intake manifold and gaskets as well with a new carb. Any ideas? Thank you
I am having troubles with over heating and an extreme amount of pressure in the radiator. The radiator hoses will swell up like a ballon when idling for a short amount of time and coolant will leak from the block, however I am not having the white smoke or frothy oil like I would with a blown head gasket. Also the temp gauge won't be reading anything, and after its ran the radiator will be completely low. The truck will then back fire a lot through the carb and then blow smoke out of the oil fill. I feel like I'm at my wits end with this! The head gaskets are new and the heads tourqed down to specs, all new intake manifold and gaskets as well with a new carb. Any ideas? Thank you
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver island
Did you have the heads resurfaced. I had a truck with a warped head and it had problems with the rad hoses swelling. I don't think I had coolant in The oil.
Last edited by 64highboy; May 26, 2016 at 09:07 PM. Reason: Because
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 481
Likes: 0
From: Deep River, CT.
It sounds like you have an air pocket in the block and everything is not filling up with coolant. A new T-stat is A MUST. When filling the system have the heater hose from the intake manifold or T-stat housing (not hose to water pump) disconnected and fill till coolant is at that level, reinstall the hose and continue filling rad. Leave rad down 1.5 " from the filler neck. Leave the rad cap Off, start it up and let idle to warm up. As it warms the coolant will rise in the rad. If all is well the T-stat will open and the rad level will drop as the heater and all, fills and pushes the air out.
Temp gauge probably didn't work because coolant did not touch it. If you had the cap on, Steam is what probably ballooned the hoses.
Now I don't mean this to be funny or insulting. I think your head gaskets had top or bottom and a front and rear to them. Where you aware and are they installed correctly? The water pump pushes the coolant thru the block to the rear and up into the heads. Then the coolant comes forward thru the heads to the T-stat area and to the rad. Just a thought if !st paragraph doesn't work for you.
Temp gauge probably didn't work because coolant did not touch it. If you had the cap on, Steam is what probably ballooned the hoses.
Now I don't mean this to be funny or insulting. I think your head gaskets had top or bottom and a front and rear to them. Where you aware and are they installed correctly? The water pump pushes the coolant thru the block to the rear and up into the heads. Then the coolant comes forward thru the heads to the T-stat area and to the rad. Just a thought if !st paragraph doesn't work for you.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Macedonia Ohio
Thanks guys! No offense taken on the head gaskets, I checked and re-checked when putting them on because the last thing I wanted to do was to take it all back apart again. Lol
however I currently do not have a thermostate in the neck there, it's just all open. The one I had was all gummed up from before and looking online I saw I could run it without one. With the rad initially full and the cap off, just turning it over it pumped a ton of antifreeze out of the top of the radiator so I'm assuming that might mean the pump is working? And the heads have not been resurfaced. I will take the pump off to see if there is any blockage in there though.
however I currently do not have a thermostate in the neck there, it's just all open. The one I had was all gummed up from before and looking online I saw I could run it without one. With the rad initially full and the cap off, just turning it over it pumped a ton of antifreeze out of the top of the radiator so I'm assuming that might mean the pump is working? And the heads have not been resurfaced. I will take the pump off to see if there is any blockage in there though.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 481
Likes: 0
From: Deep River, CT.
"With the rad initially full and the cap off, just turning it over it pumped a ton of antifreeze out of the top of the radiator" ????
Just cranking it over should not do what your describing, UNLESS you have blockage in the rad. SUGGEST, disconnect fan belt, rad full to top, crank engine over and see if you still blow coolant out rad top. If it is still blowing out, there is compression getting into the cooling system. See what this test does.
Just cranking it over should not do what your describing, UNLESS you have blockage in the rad. SUGGEST, disconnect fan belt, rad full to top, crank engine over and see if you still blow coolant out rad top. If it is still blowing out, there is compression getting into the cooling system. See what this test does.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Macedonia Ohio
"With the rad initially full and the cap off, just turning it over it pumped a ton of antifreeze out of the top of the radiator" ????
Just cranking it over should not do what your describing, UNLESS you have blockage in the rad. SUGGEST, disconnect fan belt, rad full to top, crank engine over and see if you still blow coolant out rad top. If it is still blowing out, there is compression getting into the cooling system. See what this test does.
Just cranking it over should not do what your describing, UNLESS you have blockage in the rad. SUGGEST, disconnect fan belt, rad full to top, crank engine over and see if you still blow coolant out rad top. If it is still blowing out, there is compression getting into the cooling system. See what this test does.
What would that mean if there is compression in the cooling system?
Trending Topics
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 481
Likes: 0
From: Deep River, CT.
Compression from the cylinders, A leaking head gasket. DID YOU DO the test of removing the fan belt to stop the water pump from turning as I described??? It's a process of elimination to get to the cause of your problem, looking for the simplest things first
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Ford Super Duty: 5 Things Owners LOVE, 5 Things They LOATHE!
Joe Kucinski
Every 2026 Ford Truck Engine RANKED from WORST to FIRST!
Michael S. Palmer
The Best F-150 Deal of Every Trim Level (XL through Raptor)
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Macedonia Ohio
Yes, I did the test and yes water still pumps out of the radiator. As well as the smell and smoke of exhaust
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 481
Likes: 0
From: Deep River, CT.
Next step I suppose is to take out all the spark plugs. Now if you or a helper would look at the engine as the other cranked it over, you would look for coolant blowing out a spark plug hole. to determine which side or cyl(s) are leaking.
Preferably if you had or could borrow a cooling system pressure tester (to expensive to buy), and pumped a couple pounds pressure to the system, it would force the coolant to the leak area, then crank engine again to see what plug hole it comes out.
Guessing a head gasket not installed properly, head and block surfaces not cleaned properly, possibly a serious crack (hope not).
The ball is back in your court.
Preferably if you had or could borrow a cooling system pressure tester (to expensive to buy), and pumped a couple pounds pressure to the system, it would force the coolant to the leak area, then crank engine again to see what plug hole it comes out.
Guessing a head gasket not installed properly, head and block surfaces not cleaned properly, possibly a serious crack (hope not).
The ball is back in your court.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 481
Likes: 0
From: Deep River, CT.
j j, I guess compression test will show weaker cyl(s). It is a choice and worth a try.
Tmurph, long, long time since I had a FE apart. On each side of the block were there 2 dowels that aligned gasket and head to the block? I forgot to add, look at the spark plugs for signs of water on them
Tmurph, long, long time since I had a FE apart. On each side of the block were there 2 dowels that aligned gasket and head to the block? I forgot to add, look at the spark plugs for signs of water on them
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Macedonia Ohio
j j, I guess compression test will show weaker cyl(s). It is a choice and worth a try.
Tmurph, long, long time since I had a FE apart. On each side of the block were there 2 dowels that aligned gasket and head to the block? I forgot to add, look at the spark plugs for signs of water on them
Tmurph, long, long time since I had a FE apart. On each side of the block were there 2 dowels that aligned gasket and head to the block? I forgot to add, look at the spark plugs for signs of water on them
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 481
Likes: 0
From: Deep River, CT.
OK so you know something is going on with the passenger side. Can you determine/see the drip leak is where the head meets the block. Use mirror and light if needed.
Also you said " I can see that there is water leaking from the passenger side of the block AS WELL ". So did you pull the spark plugs and crank engine, look for coolant out plug holes?
Compression in a cylinder could be 140-160 PSI. On the coolant side there is no pressure and the coolant may not drip easily into a cyl. That is the reason I mentioned a coolant system pressure tester would be best as you could pump up to 15 PSI against the coolant and possibly push the coolant into a cyl(s) and cranking would spray that coolant out the plug hole.
Many parts stores offer tools for loan ( leaving a deposit ) you may have one in your area that offers a coolant system tester.
Also you said " I can see that there is water leaking from the passenger side of the block AS WELL ". So did you pull the spark plugs and crank engine, look for coolant out plug holes?
Compression in a cylinder could be 140-160 PSI. On the coolant side there is no pressure and the coolant may not drip easily into a cyl. That is the reason I mentioned a coolant system pressure tester would be best as you could pump up to 15 PSI against the coolant and possibly push the coolant into a cyl(s) and cranking would spray that coolant out the plug hole.
Many parts stores offer tools for loan ( leaving a deposit ) you may have one in your area that offers a coolant system tester.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 113
From: Chico, Ca.
I would check your thermostat to make sure it's opening at the right temp. If there isn't a bleed hole, you can drill an 1/8" hole which will help with the overpressure and before the thermostat opens.