A/C problem
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 193
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A/C problem
Well it's that time of year to start using my air conditioning. Went to use it today and it is blowing nothing but warm air. Worked perfectly last time I used it last year. Any ideas? I thought about buying that 134a ac recharge kit from auto zone. Would you guys try that stuff ?
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 2,616
Likes: 1,190
From: Door Cty/Florida
I wouldn't risk it. What if the dealer later claims what you added did damage and now your warranty claim is denied. A/C parts can run a lot more than your deductible. Get it fixed correctly the first time.
Bruce...
Bruce...
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 10,157
Likes: 8,003
From: Texas
Schroeder valve on the suction side of the compressor. There should be instructions with the recharge kit. And I guess if you are still unsure, maybe find a buddy that knows, or get some hands on assistance of some sort.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 10,157
Likes: 8,003
From: Texas
And if I could type faster, I would have agreed with your statement! You posted while I was typing! �� Oh, well!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,045
Likes: 5
From: Gig Em, Tx
Just as a clarification, 134A systems don't have schrader valves. They have snap on fittings. The fittings are different sizes for suction side and discharge side. You want to make sure you hook up any charge hose to suction side. Most kits have the correct fitting. If it doesn't fit the fitting on the truck you are probably on the wrong one.
Check the simple things first. Is A/C turning when on? If so, does it stop soon after it starts? (low charge and low pressure switch is kicking compressor off until pressure builds back up). If no, check electrical and air gap on clutch. Lots of things to check before adding in freon.
Check the simple things first. Is A/C turning when on? If so, does it stop soon after it starts? (low charge and low pressure switch is kicking compressor off until pressure builds back up). If no, check electrical and air gap on clutch. Lots of things to check before adding in freon.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 9,762
Likes: 115
Many here have had their A/Cs not work and all it took was a computer reset. The truck is so computerized it's crazy...
Mine quit while in Haines Junction, Yukon Canada. I used Forscan to reset all the computers and it worked again. I ended up trading the truck in several months later, but it was still working.
I got the idea from someone else that posted the same thing.
Mine quit while in Haines Junction, Yukon Canada. I used Forscan to reset all the computers and it worked again. I ended up trading the truck in several months later, but it was still working.
I got the idea from someone else that posted the same thing.
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Super Moderator
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 37,379
Likes: 1,863
From: Frederick, MD
If you do it yourself you need to get the refill with the gauge on it.
Run the a/c on max with the fan on high to put it in.
But I tend to agree if you have warranty then get them to trouble shoot it.
A/C units are much better than years ago where they would just leak down.
Even my house A/C is 1999 and I never touch it.
Run the a/c on max with the fan on high to put it in.
But I tend to agree if you have warranty then get them to trouble shoot it.
A/C units are much better than years ago where they would just leak down.
Even my house A/C is 1999 and I never touch it.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,664
Likes: 188
It's your evaporator. all of the trucks leak at it at some point. My 2011 F350 6.7 did as well around 70k came out of the winter and no ac....cost $1200 due having to remove the dash. Some do it themselves but I'm too old for that now..so I had them do it.
I did reload the 134 and it worked for a short while. But then it blew out the pump next. I thought from running it too low. I'd get it fixed fast if I was you and not fool with reloading. You can check for a leak by locating the oil mixed in with the water from the system draining down behind the pass wheel well.
I did reload the 134 and it worked for a short while. But then it blew out the pump next. I thought from running it too low. I'd get it fixed fast if I was you and not fool with reloading. You can check for a leak by locating the oil mixed in with the water from the system draining down behind the pass wheel well.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 25
From: Middle Tn.
Just a bit of hindsight for the future. Auto ac systems unlike household systems have rubber seals and hoses. They should be run at least once a month to keep everything lubricated and to prevent the seals from drying out.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 914
Likes: 1
From: New Braunfels, Texas
I have had issues with mine off and on for the life of the truck, as others have said some times just resetting the computer fixed it, but this last time they found a leak in the evaporator coil and I was, indeed, out of freon. My extended warranty covered the work, and while they were replacing that, the blower motor quit blowing on high and so it got replaced as well.
But the most unique fix my handy little diesel tech found was the connection to the compressor got dirty and it was cutting off and on sporadically. It was one of those, "It's broken but I can't make break right now" kinda problems, but fortunately just as they were about to hand her back, it disconnected again, and he figured it out. Cleaned out the connection and it was good for nearly a year - until the leak. So have your dealership check that if you choose to take it in.
But the most unique fix my handy little diesel tech found was the connection to the compressor got dirty and it was cutting off and on sporadically. It was one of those, "It's broken but I can't make break right now" kinda problems, but fortunately just as they were about to hand her back, it disconnected again, and he figured it out. Cleaned out the connection and it was good for nearly a year - until the leak. So have your dealership check that if you choose to take it in.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,470
Likes: 535
From: Chandler, AZ
Most recharge kits have a 'leak sealer' in them (read the can) and you really don't want it in the system if possible. So if you are going to take it someplace, when they evac they will find the goo. The gauge on the kit is almost useless, you need both sides and ambient temp to do anything with a reading... Which won't really tell you how much you have or should add.
Those cans are fine for an old car to limp along for a little while. I have a gauge set and have 'fixed' many peoples A/C over the years but I wouldn't use it on my truck
Those cans are fine for an old car to limp along for a little while. I have a gauge set and have 'fixed' many peoples A/C over the years but I wouldn't use it on my truck
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 9,762
Likes: 115
I agree with Smoky on the sealer. If the reset doesn't work then taking it in while still under your $200 deductible, extended warranty is the next best move to make, IMHO. You can't do it yourself for under $200.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,521
Likes: 11
From: Greenwood, SC
Heck, I get what everyone is saying here.
I've added refrigerant to every SD I've ever driven. Every time we get a new truck, I shoot up the system within the first year and it's good from then on. I always figured that they were a little too conservative at the factory.
I'm no expert though, I just do what I do and things seem to work out most of the time....
I've added refrigerant to every SD I've ever driven. Every time we get a new truck, I shoot up the system within the first year and it's good from then on. I always figured that they were a little too conservative at the factory.
I'm no expert though, I just do what I do and things seem to work out most of the time....
