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I'm having an issue on my '84 with 302/ 2bbl; I can't seem to achieve a steady idle. When I set the idle to where it should be which I seem to remember is around 750 (manual trans), it searches between 700 and 1,000. I've attempted to adjust the carb with a vacuum gauge to get highest possible reading with leanest setting which is now fluctuating between 17"-21". I've reset the timing, still to no avail. It seems to be running very rich even after leaning it out. I just set the thing for 1,000 RPM because I'm afraid it's going to stall at a red light. I've also disconnected the idle control motor with no change. Is there anything to look at first before I start ripping things apart to diagnose the timing set/cam/lifters, etc? My vacuum lines are all new so I don't suspect a vacuum leak.
Where are you getting your vacuum for the advance? I'd bet you are using manifold vacuum. If so, pull the vacuum line and plug it - do you still have problems? If not, find ported vacuum where there's no vacuum at idle, and use that.
A wandering idle is one symptom of a sloppy timing chain. Pull your distributor cap and rotate the engine until the rotor moves. Then reverse rotation and note how much crank rotation you have before the rotor moves. That is how much your cam and ignition timing wanders at idle.
Where are you getting your vacuum for the advance? I'd bet you are using manifold vacuum. If so, pull the vacuum line and plug it - do you still have problems? If not, find ported vacuum where there's no vacuum at idle, and use that.
Actually, it is currently ported, but it wasn't always that way- when I got the truck it was getting its vacuum from the manifold. I've since switched it to a ported source tapped off the carburetor. At one point I thought that maybe the diaphragm in the vacuum advance blew out (I've had this happen before) but it seems good.
But to get to the end of your statement, a ported vacuum source should have 0" of vacuum at idle? This port I am using has some vacuum at idle, but not at 0".
Carb is still original but was completely rebuilt last year- used new gaskets and bolts are still tight. I suppose that's not to say the gaskets are defective or the carb base is warped...
A wandering idle is one symptom of a sloppy timing chain. Pull your distributor cap and rotate the engine until the rotor moves. Then reverse rotation and note how much crank rotation you have before the rotor moves. That is how much your cam and ignition timing wanders at idle.
Never thought of this! Great idea- we may be on the right track with this. How much movement of the crank pulley should I expect before the rotor starts to move? I'm assuming if everything is as it should be that minimal rotation of the crank should transfer movement to the rotor.
If you have the throttle plates open very much you will have some vacuum at idle. And since the advance can start coming in at about 10", that's too much.
What causes the throttle plates to be open too much is a poor air/fuel mix and/or late ignition timing.
If you have the throttle plates open very much you will have some vacuum at idle. And since the advance can start coming in at about 10", that's too much.
What causes the throttle plates to be open too much is a poor air/fuel mix and/or late ignition timing.
Pardon my ignorance but how does the ignition timing affect the position of the throttle plates? I thought those could only be controlled by either the accelerator pedal or by turning the idle adjustment screw.
Well, yes and no. Late engine timing makes the engine idle slowly so you have to open the throttle more to get the RPM up where you want it. And a rich air/fuel mix makes it run slowly as well. So lean out the mix and turn up the timing. That'll let you close the throttle plates.
Well, yes and no. Late engine timing makes the engine idle slowly so you have to open the throttle more to get the RPM up where you want it. And a rich air/fuel mix makes it run slowly as well. So lean out the mix and turn up the timing. That'll let you close the throttle plates.
Oh yeah, that's probably controlled by this idle control motor. I've disconnected it but I've had to turn the idle up so the plates probably are open a little which is why I probably have some vacuum at that port. I'm thinking I'm going to do that little test to see how much slop is in the chain.
Still trying to figure out why it's running so rich still, I've got it leaned out as much as I can, any leaner, the engine wants to stall.
Was there a possibility of a nylon gear in '84 ? Both my original 302 and the replacement '87 had steel, so i'm not sure. 87 left...84 right
I'd have to think they quit using nylon long ago, but who knows. Until I open it up I won't know for sure. I remember taking apart the 460 on my '69 Mark III and saw nylon gears and I was amazed that they were still in perfect condition but still wondered how they could ever be so (and I hate to use this word) DUMB and think that would ever last.
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