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I have a 2005 E250 Ford van. It runs great as long as I stay under 2500 RPMs absolutely no issues. If I try to accelerate fast as soon as it gets to 3000 RPMs the check engine light will start flashing and the van Does not gain speed it just sort of stays at the same speed and holds 3000 RPMs.
Does it shake and sputter and sound like its dying?
Not sure what to say about the shaking and sputtering it's more like it just won't go.?? I'm sure it is cutting back and sputtering it's just not real violent. If that makes any sense???
I want to say yes.......???? But not real sure because usually when it starts flashing the engine code I let off of the gas. The engine light will flash for about another minute and then go off .
I took the van to advanced or auto zone about three weeks ago and they told me the code but I have forgotten. I remember he said the code meant A misfire on number six cylinder. That's why I changed the coil pack and spark plug.
Something's not right here, the bit about an engine light coming on then going out by itself. Typically if a code is thrown it lights the CEL or MIL and that stays lit up until the code is cleared after the DTC causing it has been repaired.
IF a DTC self-corrects the MIL stays on until about 10 complete drive cycles---as long as it doesn't happen again it will go out.
IF the #6 plug isn't firing it could be the COP connector from the engine wiring harness is maybe making intermittent contact which would trigger the MIL. An easy test is holding that connector tight to the COP body with engine running, see if the idle changes, repeat to see if anything is consistent with touching that connector.
That just addresses your possible misfire condition---not the 3000 RPM max revs issue.
Something's not right here, the bit about an engine light coming on then going out by itself. Typically if a code is thrown it lights the CEL or MIL and that stays lit up until the code is cleared after the DTC causing it has been repaired.
IF a DTC self-corrects the MIL stays on until about 10 complete drive cycles---as long as it doesn't happen again it will go out.
IF the #6 plug isn't firing it could be the COP connector from the engine wiring harness is maybe making intermittent contact which would trigger the MIL. An easy test is holding that connector tight to the COP body with engine running, see if the idle changes, repeat to see if anything is consistent with touching that connector.
That just addresses your possible misfire condition---not the 3000 RPM max revs issue.
The check engine light never goes off it just flashes when I reach 3000 rpm and then stops flashing after a few minutes. Sorry I made it sound like it completely went out. Don't know if this helps but I have also seen a wrench llight up on the dash and stay on until I turn the truck off.