Well I started my dash redo. The wife says if I run out of projects I'll dream up a new one in 15 minutes.

Anywho, speedometer: I'll need to have it rebuilt (again!). That's only $65.00 local. The dial face is a problem however. When I tried to clean it most of the white came off the numbers. Anyone ever try to repaint one? Source for a new one (just the face)? It's a 100 mph unit.

Also looking for a good price on a N.O.S. instrument cluster cover with wood grain. I'll check the on line store.

Also trying to locate visor pegs. The part that the rubber bootie goes on.

 

Sounds like you just need another 100mph speedo.

 

Use some bumper black or any semigloss paint, then get out your detail brush and some white model paint. You might even be able to use a paint pen instead of a brush.

 

On my 79 crewcab, 79 Bronco, and my Sunbeam Alpine I dusted the face's of each gage with a very light brush. I did NOT use a cloth or paper towel. I then painted the needles fluorescent orange that I got from a nearby hobby shop. I then shot the gages with a matt fisnish clear to bring a little briliance back, but not to shiny.

As for the numbers, that would be touchy. I dont think I would be steady enough. Mine were fine. Maybe use a q-tip lightly around the numbers to get rid of the white that got smeared.

If the numbers dont look good, I am sure one of us guys would have an assortment of gages. I myself like the 100mph better also.

 

100 mph speedo heads can be found on eBay. I found one there for $36 shipping included. If I remember right most of them went for higher tho...

The one I have is in good condition.

 

Dennis Carpenter has a lot of restoration parts for Ford. I got a catalog from them that covers 73-79 model years. go to www.dennis-carpenter.com

 

I found out the hard way too, the white wipes right off. I just replaced the fuel guage (only damage done). I also painted the needles orange and cleaned the interior of the cluster.

Now would be a good time for you to remove the green covers over the two dash light bulbs. They get clouded and dim. I removed mine and like the brighter white light - but you could always get new colored bulbs - would still be brighter than having that clouded cover on. Just a thought.

Marty

 

Update: Well I'll check "E"bay for a speedo. The only new ones I've seen were in the $350.00 range. A paint pen might be worth trying.

I replace the main vacuum switch assembly and got all of my air doors working properly. Removed the blue domes and used green 194 bulbs. I also use a different dash box with gauges and circuit sheet. The old one crumbled. I installed a new regulator but the gauges are only reading about half what they should.

I think I'll order a new "surround trim" in black and have some walnut inlaid where the stock "paper" wood was so as to match the trim on my doors.

 

Bear

Didn't you get the e-mail I sent you ?

 

There is a 100 mph cluster on ebay right now for $9.95 item number 2428634159

Another one MPH/KM unit # 2428009987

Another 100 MPH unit for $20.00 # 2428181150

I use the following search term:
ford (73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 1978, 78, 79) (instrument, cluster, speedometer, gage, gages, gauge, gauges)

You can put in more complete year terms to catch more.

 

Thanks million and torque first.

Any thoughts on why the gauges would read low? I'll have to try swapping out the regulator and individual gauges one at a time.

 

Those gage systems were designed to last 5 years and are lucky to work 10 years. The "cure" for making them operate properly is to rebuild them "properly" -hehe like they should have been built in the first place but it was not economical. I think I have laid all of this out b4 here but here goes again:

All of the connections in the system have oxidized over the years so you need to go back thru and clean ALL of the connections.

Solder all of the factory crimp connections after cleaning with a little dilute muriatic acid, rinse well. Crimp connections go bad over time due to thermal cycling and exposure to water, salt, and other chemicals. The voltages and currents in the gage system are very low and will not pass thru the oxidized connections.

The instrument panel voltage regulator can cause your oil, temp, and fuel gages to read HIGH if it gets some oxidation on the ground terminal circuit.

Use dielectric grease on all of the terminal connections, plugs, and gage stud nuts after cleaning. I have had good luck with using the std silicone dielectric grease that you buy for spark plugs etc. Ford has a special dielectric compound for use on connectors also. I have read TSB's about them switching back and forth with using their special compound or std dielectric grease so I don't know what the current Ford recommended product is.

Good luck chasing down all of the plugs and connectors in the harness. If you succeed in getting them all refurbished/improved your gages will operate like new.

Make sure your body and engine grounds are good also (use dielectric and lock washers) or your gages will read low also.

 

Found the gauge problem! The new regulator didn't put out the correct voltage. Everything looks right with the original unit back in.

I polished the plastic gauge cover with NOVUS products. Worked really well. I thought at first I had missed some spots only to find it was reflections!