2002 7.3 suddenly shuts down while driving
#1
2002 7.3 suddenly shuts down while driving
This started about 6 weeks ago. While sitting at a stop light the motor cut out. After some research I replaced the cps. Truck ran fine for about 3 weeks, then shut down again while pulling into the driveway of a store. Replaced the cps again (this time with a ford one). Ran fine for another 3 weeks, then shut down again oIn the freeway. No CEL on any occasion. It's just like someone turned the key off. No rough idling at all. No smoke durring starting or driving. When it shuts down, it will not start again for 20-30 minutes, no matter how many time you crank it. It will just turn over, no sputter. When it fires up again there is no air in the lines either, it runs like nothing happened.
I'm now thinking it might be a ipr issue...is there a way I can check myself or does it need to go to the mechanic? Or is it something completely different?
This is my mother in laws daily driver, 178k. She does not drive on the freeway, 80% of the mileage is city driving. Anybody have any insight to what could be going on?
I'm now thinking it might be a ipr issue...is there a way I can check myself or does it need to go to the mechanic? Or is it something completely different?
This is my mother in laws daily driver, 178k. She does not drive on the freeway, 80% of the mileage is city driving. Anybody have any insight to what could be going on?
#2
Here are some Delta's for comparison for sensors.:
AP: 5 Volt Reference Circuit, 0.5-0.7 volts at idle, 4.5 volts at WOT. PID:
AP
BARO: 5 Volt Reference Circuit, @4.6 volts/14.7 psi at sea level, decreasing as altitude increases.
CMP: high = 12 volts, low = 1.5 volts.
EBP: 5.0 volts in, 0.8-1.0 volts/14.7 psi
EOT: 5 Volt Reference Circuit, 4.37 volts@32°F, 1.37volts@176°F, .96volts@205°F. PID: EOT (degrees)
IAT: 5 Volt Reference Circuit, 3.897volts@32°F, 3.09@68°F, 1.72@122°F.
ICP: 5 Volt Reference Circuit, 1.0volt@580psi, and 3.22volts@2520psi.
ICP Volts
0 0.2
200 0.4
400 0.73
600 0.96
800 1.2
1000 1.4
1200 1.6
1400 1.9
1600 2.1
1800 2.3
2000 2.6
2200 2.8
2400 3.0
2600 3.3
2800 3.5
3000 3.8
EXBP 10-15psig w/ EBPV closed and not exceed 45 psig at WOT Note: EXBP showing low (3-5psi) that barley rises with acceleration indicates bad sensor or plugged tube.
IDM: 110 volt signal to the injectors. Grounds each injector as fuel is required for that cylinder. Fuel Pulse width is increased to deliver more fuel. The IDM sends a feedback signal to the PCM for fault detection.
IVS: 0 volts at idle, 12 volts off idle. PID: IVS (off/on)
MAP: Frequency output; 111Hz / 14.7 psi, 130Hz / 20psi, 167Hz / 30psi.
IPR: Idle Warm: 8% - 14%, Idle Cold 10% - 15%, Electromagnetic Coil Test: OHMS = 10.2 - 10.6, Range: 0% - 65% (Not more than 20% Starting).
EPR: Exhaust Back Pressure Regulator, also EBP regulator Output: For quicker engine warm-up at cold temperatures. If the IAT is below 37°F (50°F some models) and the EOT is below 140°F (168° some models) the PCM sends a duty cycle signal to a solenoid which controls oil flow from the turbo pedestal. This causes a servo to close a valve at the turbo exhaust outlet. The PCM monitors the EBP input to determine if the EPR needs to be disabled to provide power for increased load, then reapplies the EPR as load demand decreases until EOT or IAT rises.
The Exhaust Back-Pressure sensor is a variable capacitor sensor that is supplied a 5-volt reference signal by the PCM and returns a linear analog voltage signal that indicates pressure. The Exhaust Back-Pressure sensor measures the pressure in the RH exhaust manifold. This sensor is used in conjunction with the exhaust back-pressure regulator to form a closed loop exhaust back-pressure control system.
The exhaust back-pressure is controlled by the PCM to provide more heat to the coolant for cab heating when ambient air temperature is below 7°C (45°F) and engine oil temperature is below 75°C (167°F) during low load, low speed operating conditions.
An open or short in the Exhaust Back-Pressure sensor wiring will result in a low out of range voltage at the PCM, and the PCM will disable Exhaust Back-Pressure control.
** NOTE: The Exhaust Back-Pressure sensor is not present on F-650 and F-750 models. **
AP: 5 Volt Reference Circuit, 0.5-0.7 volts at idle, 4.5 volts at WOT. PID:
AP
BARO: 5 Volt Reference Circuit, @4.6 volts/14.7 psi at sea level, decreasing as altitude increases.
CMP: high = 12 volts, low = 1.5 volts.
EBP: 5.0 volts in, 0.8-1.0 volts/14.7 psi
EOT: 5 Volt Reference Circuit, 4.37 volts@32°F, 1.37volts@176°F, .96volts@205°F. PID: EOT (degrees)
IAT: 5 Volt Reference Circuit, 3.897volts@32°F, 3.09@68°F, 1.72@122°F.
ICP: 5 Volt Reference Circuit, 1.0volt@580psi, and 3.22volts@2520psi.
ICP Volts
0 0.2
200 0.4
400 0.73
600 0.96
800 1.2
1000 1.4
1200 1.6
1400 1.9
1600 2.1
1800 2.3
2000 2.6
2200 2.8
2400 3.0
2600 3.3
2800 3.5
3000 3.8
EXBP 10-15psig w/ EBPV closed and not exceed 45 psig at WOT Note: EXBP showing low (3-5psi) that barley rises with acceleration indicates bad sensor or plugged tube.
IDM: 110 volt signal to the injectors. Grounds each injector as fuel is required for that cylinder. Fuel Pulse width is increased to deliver more fuel. The IDM sends a feedback signal to the PCM for fault detection.
IVS: 0 volts at idle, 12 volts off idle. PID: IVS (off/on)
MAP: Frequency output; 111Hz / 14.7 psi, 130Hz / 20psi, 167Hz / 30psi.
IPR: Idle Warm: 8% - 14%, Idle Cold 10% - 15%, Electromagnetic Coil Test: OHMS = 10.2 - 10.6, Range: 0% - 65% (Not more than 20% Starting).
EPR: Exhaust Back Pressure Regulator, also EBP regulator Output: For quicker engine warm-up at cold temperatures. If the IAT is below 37°F (50°F some models) and the EOT is below 140°F (168° some models) the PCM sends a duty cycle signal to a solenoid which controls oil flow from the turbo pedestal. This causes a servo to close a valve at the turbo exhaust outlet. The PCM monitors the EBP input to determine if the EPR needs to be disabled to provide power for increased load, then reapplies the EPR as load demand decreases until EOT or IAT rises.
The Exhaust Back-Pressure sensor is a variable capacitor sensor that is supplied a 5-volt reference signal by the PCM and returns a linear analog voltage signal that indicates pressure. The Exhaust Back-Pressure sensor measures the pressure in the RH exhaust manifold. This sensor is used in conjunction with the exhaust back-pressure regulator to form a closed loop exhaust back-pressure control system.
The exhaust back-pressure is controlled by the PCM to provide more heat to the coolant for cab heating when ambient air temperature is below 7°C (45°F) and engine oil temperature is below 75°C (167°F) during low load, low speed operating conditions.
An open or short in the Exhaust Back-Pressure sensor wiring will result in a low out of range voltage at the PCM, and the PCM will disable Exhaust Back-Pressure control.
** NOTE: The Exhaust Back-Pressure sensor is not present on F-650 and F-750 models. **
#3
#4
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Chino Valley, Arizona
Posts: 9,279
Received 3,675 Likes
on
1,131 Posts
#5
So I went over and did a little more research. This is what I found:
ICR: 10.8% @ 680 rpm, 20.5% @ 2029rpm
ICP: 513 psi @ 680 rpm, 1202 psi @ 2029 rpm
EXBP: 15.1 psi @ 680 rpm, 19.2 psi @ 2029 rpm
Could not get a BARO reading, was not coming up as an active PID on my Torque Pro app.
ICR: 10.8% @ 680 rpm, 20.5% @ 2029rpm
ICP: 513 psi @ 680 rpm, 1202 psi @ 2029 rpm
EXBP: 15.1 psi @ 680 rpm, 19.2 psi @ 2029 rpm
Could not get a BARO reading, was not coming up as an active PID on my Torque Pro app.
It starts easier when cold?
Pull the fuel filter and see what it looks like.
I'm thinking you may be losing ICP pressure through the injector o-rings.
#6
#7
Starts easy hot or cold
Fuel filter was repaced with a Ford OEM at last oil change, still looks brand new
Trending Topics
#8
#9
#10
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Chino Valley, Arizona
Posts: 9,279
Received 3,675 Likes
on
1,131 Posts
#12
Yes it is still there. Seems to be fairly tight also.
I also took a look at the wire set that comes over the driver side valve cover and could not see any open cuts. I went ahead and used electrical tape to cover the area just in case.
I also took a look at the wire set that comes over the driver side valve cover and could not see any open cuts. I went ahead and used electrical tape to cover the area just in case.
#13
#14