I just got stranded at chick fil a because my truck wont start.

I just fixed the no start issue a few weeks ago with a different IDM so hopefully something isnt causing that to fail.

I have a new CPS from ford, the HPOP res is full, the fuel bowl is full, I unplugged the ICP sensor and I have the wait to start light coming on. Also the tin nut is on the ipr as well. I dont notice any white smoke when cranking.

Can anyone think of something else I can try? I think I'll have to get a tow unfortunately.... I sure hope this doesn't keep happening.

 

I would be looking at the idm again

 

Agreed, take a close look at the VCG, a plug freeing up will shut the IDM down, a bad solenoid can do this as well, but usually only one bank. Where did the replacement come from?

This has happened to me before as well when I hit a large object at a fast rate of speed. . . .

 

I bought the used one locally. It was from a super duty so its the 120V one. Ill try taking a peak at the uvc connectors to see if they are messed up.

What do you guys think I should do if the IDM is bad again? Just a coincidence that the other failed or should I be looking at something causing it to fail (assuming that ka the problem)? Should I send mine in to get repaired as well or try buying a different one?

As a side note, the Bronco did seem a little rough when starting in the mornings like it didn't want to fire over that well. After warming up, I would have no problems the rest of the day.

I believe Ill get a chance to test my IDM on my friends dads truck later today to see of his truck starts on my IDM.

 

So it is the IDM again. I tested mine on my friends dad's truck and it wouldn't start.

I obviously have to get another, but I'm afraid something is causing it to go bad. What should I be looking at that would cause this? Also, do you think I'll be okay getting a one on eBay?

 

Start looking for a short.
Just purchase with PayPal and you're covered

 

I tried taking a look at the valve cover harness connectors I spliced in a few months ago before the swap but they both appear good. I found this diagram:

GB Remanufacturing - Tech Bulletin #103

and followed the testing procedures. Everything turned up okay on that, so if there is a short or something, it must be intermittent.

Would you happen to know a general area for where a short could be?

Also, I was looking at swamps upgraded IDMs. They are pretty pricey, but I may do that but only if their year warranty would cover an issue like this (which I'm not sure it would.)

Also, I have two bad IDMs, and I read they can give a discount if you send in more than one. I was wondering if anyone knew if they still did that?

 

I would start looking where the harness lays on the drive side valve cover

 

Alright I'll take a peek there. I did tape up and re-wrap the engine harness, so if it's shorting out, its two wires shorting out against each other. I hope this isn't too hard to find. I'm going to borrow my dad's truck to go pick up another IDM tomorrow at a junkyard from a super duty truck.

The back of my "new" IDM had some bubbling paint on it. Kinda like it got wet or something, but I can't hear any water inside or anything. I would find it weird than an AZ IDM would get moisture in as well, but maybe this IDM came from an out of state truck. I kinda want to take my IDMs apart to take a look inside. If I do that, do you think I'll void any core refunds?

 

I think if you are careful nobody could tell. I have a Swamps IDM now for several years and I think they will warrant them. Its a lot of money and I couldn't really tell any improvement.

 

Hmm if you couldn't tell much, then I may not go that route on Swamps. The running price is 500 bucks now, and that's if I send in my core (at least what I could tell on the website.)

I think I'll chance it with the IDM from the junk yard... if this one goes out on me, then I'll be really upset.

I was told to check over ground as well, does anyone know which grounds would be applicable to the IDM? Potentially they are weak and that's causing issues.

 

One of the most intense rainstorms I ever experienced was in AZ, Aug 2014.

Do you have an EVTM for the year of truck from which you got the bulk of the parts? That will indicate how the IDM is grounded. Given the complexity of your project, it would be handy to have anyway.

 

Haha we do get some pretty intense rain here that's for sure. But it doesn't last long at all!

I don't have the EVTM for that truck either. It was from a 95 F250. Where would I go about getting that?

I also decided to open my first IDM that failed. From a very superficial quick inspection, nothing seemed wrong. There was no moisture and nothing from the top looked burnt. It still didn't work though. I'm going to go pick up another IDM from a junk yard here, maybe also replace the passenger side UVCH as well. I did test the continuity of the wires through the valve covers at the IDM harness connector and everything seemed to check out fine though. The resistance readings were around 2-4 ohms (my multi-meter is pretty crappy and it only will read on the 2k setting. I was getting .003 for the readings.)

I know my engine harness isn't grounding out on the engine as well since I re-wrapped everything and did a quick check. If it is shorting out somewhere in the engine harness, it would be internally which would be a nightmare. I'll try and peek under the valve covers to see if something may be shorting out under there. I'll also try and look at the chassis harness to see if something is grounding there. I don't think there is really much on that harness that could ground out though since the wheel well is plastic.

Is it possible a failing injector component could take out the IDM? I'm just trying to think of any possibility here. It's still possible I have just had bad luck too I suppose.

 

Have you tried the wiggle test?

 

Is the wiggle test just wiggling the valve cover harness connectors? I did try unplugging and plugging them back in and wiggling the one side that I redid. I also tried checking to see if resistance changed on the driver side injector harness when I was measuring it through the IDM plug (side I put new valve cover pigtails on).

I'm going to take my covers off and see if anything looks suspect underneath. I couldn't see where a short might be from the engine harness or the chassis harness, so underneath is my next guess.

I did pick up a used IDM at the yard for more than I wanted but at least I got it quickly... After I look under the valve covers to make sure nothing is grounded out, I'll put this IDM in. I'm nervous though if I don't find anything which so far I haven't... I'm almost positive the IDM will be fine for a little while, but if something is causing it to go out, I haven't found it yet.