i got 500$ to spend on my duel shock front end. so i need 4 shocks. i can go a little over 500... but right around that price range

so far ive liked the

bilstien 5150's 99.99 each and they look prety sick dont like how they arent adjustable but they do look nice.

the rancho 9000, these i like for the in cab adjustment, plut my rear alrady has 9000 on it. (i would buy the remote resaviour if i bought these)

anyone have any ideas on more shocks or any info about what shocks you recomend

im running 4' suspension lift with 3' body on a 93 F-150 its go the duel shock front end. its a rancho 4" suspension lift i bieleve.

any info or advise on other shock would be awsome.

im also wanting to buy ujoints, and bushing kit, and an exhaust, i got a 302.

any advise here would be awsome thanks guys

RALLEY ON!
-Andy

 

try the full warranty KYB Gas A Justs (but they are NOT user adjustable despite the name) - they are a ok on our 96 and were about $30.00 each at a local family owned tire/off road shop.
Take a look in my web site for exhausts and the installs of the u joints; bushings = energy suspension; u joints - federal mogul, etc
exhaust = Bassani if you have da $; or Flowmasters for less $

 

i'd go with skyjacker nitros....save some money and pay for your exahust as well with that 500 bucks

 

Used Rancho 7000s in front and 5000s in back of my '74 highboy.

Now have 9000x's in the '01 Superduty.

No complaints about ANYTHING.

ak

 

One thing to consider.....When you run dual shocks make sure that they are valved for a dual setup. If you just put any old shock on you will be over damping the springs (the ride will suck). Most shock manufacturers sell paired shocks for this setup. I cant tell you how much I HATE Rancho shocks. I have never liked the performance and they seem to fade awfully fast. (might be the way I drive). I have had good luck with the Skyjacker and the Heckethorn shocks. I also like to get a shock that I can mount Up-side down to reduce un-sprung weight and allow more clearance. Good luck!!

Andy

Oh yeah... one more thing, Dont use the silly pretty boots on them either. All they do is trap mud and water around the top seal and eventually the shaft will get all pitted and rusty.

 

I've had the Rancho 7000 and 5000's on my '74 for the last 12 years... so far no fade, and they don't leak even after sitting for a few years doing nothing.

Likewise on the pretty boots I've done some rough mudding with my '74 and lately I looked under the boots, and the rod is as shiny as it was new...

YMMV - 8K on the new 9000x's and no fade even with them turned up to 7 in back, 6 in front (VERY stiff).

ak

 

Howdy MITYFORD, I can give you my opinion on the rancho 9000 and munro magnums, I installed the rancho 9000 on my old truck (1988 f-350, 2" body lift, 5" suspension lift and 38"goodyear military issue tires). shocks worked perfect on and off road. The best thing about the adjustment is that if I had the camper on I would stiffen the shocks, and without I would tone them down. And with that suspension it was a blessing!. my 97 has munro magnums in the front and still stock on the rear (came that way when I bought it). my mind is made up when I get some cash together 4 rancho 9000 no questions asked! .....p.s the munros just plain suck very siff and hard on mounting brackets. ....regards domenico..

 

i just installed my new bilstein 5100's this morning.... WOW i love them. They made a HUGE difference in the ride from the cheapy shocks that came with my lift, and also they look sooo nice.

 

Same as I said on the Pirate forum, Rancho 9xs.

 

thanks for the imput guys, i think im gonna go with a rebuildable shock as hard as i ralley, i know ill go through shocks quick, im waiting on some advise on this,

i was told to get a expensive rebuildable resavour shock and only go single in the front end, my question is this will the single shock expensive brand (edlebrock, higher model bilstiens) hold up to the beating very long.... or would i be better off to buy non rebuilable duel shock 9000's for the same price?

also i need some advise on frame stoppers, for my dana 44 ifs, i bent one jumping it the other day, it didnt seem to do any other damage to my truck so im wondering if the frame stoppers that are on there are too long. my dad told me they might be longer cause the drive shaft might move too far out and strip the gears cause of the suspension excessive movement he said he knows thats a problem with the solid axels but hes not sure with the dana 44 ifs, cause the pumpkin sits higher then a strait axel and stays more in place while the suspension moves...

im also thinking about getting the superrunner steering system anyone have this installed? howd you like it? did it increase handeling on bumps and when the suspension is working? if so did it increase it enough to where it worth how much they want for it?

thanks for the help again guys your awsome!
-Andy

 

Whoa, hold the presses, now it sounds like you are talking about something like a prerunner. If thats the case you want something like the higher end bilsteins with the remote resevoirs that are staged for your application. If you are worried about too much suspension travel (which shouldn't be an issue on a near stock susp. anyways) cycle your suspension and add a limiting strap and lower/raise your stops appropriately.

 

limitin strap eh? what exactly is the benifit of that does it not let your suspension drop all the way out?

as far as the stoppers go how am i supposed to know how long the stopper should be i bent this stopper on ther all up from too much suspension travel but it didnt damage anything else can i get away with a smaller stopper its 4 " stopper on there right now.
-Andy

thanks for the advise pro-e im trying to make this truck the sweetest ralling ride as possible, but im new to this extra suspension stuff.

 

In essence, you cycle your suspension and note at full stuff and full droop where the danger zone is, and set your stop at the top point where its getting risky. Once you modify you need to use a different stop or modify its mount for the different suspension flex anyways. You do the same at full droop and affix a limiting strap (a chain is kinda booty but works too) to stop drop at that point to prevent spitting anything out. I'm not sure about the ralley vehicles but I know the rock crawlers with mad flex commonly use these to keep their susp cycle in the desired range.