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Local ford was $237.00 including tax for a reman inject
They always take care of me
Are you going to clean and replace the O rings for the rest of the driver side injectors?
A few yrs ago, with your help and other on this forum I finally figure out which injector went bad, the second from front drive side went bad. Bought an injectors before took the injector apart, could of just replace all the O-rings and the copper washer tip without replace a new injector...
I just polished the spools on mine but I agree maybe the bores could use some cleaning. It does crank right up and idles sweet immediately so I was happy with that part.
That's great news. Sounds like you're gaining.
For curiousity, did you hook a hose with some shop air to the nozzle end to confirm a leaky pintle? Cover 2 of the 3 fuel inlet ports withe your thumb and finger. Bubbles from the 3rd port is the tell tale.
That's great news. Sounds like you're gaining.
For curiousity, did you hook a hose with some shop air to the nozzle end to confirm a leaky pintle? Cover 2 of the 3 fuel inlet ports withe your thumb and finger. Bubbles from the 3rd port is the tell tale.
didn't think of it
and now that you say something I was going to vac test the tip but forgot I don't think its a very solid way to test though but I always wanted to try and now I forgot
and now that you say something I was going to vac test the tip but forgot I don't think its a very solid way to test though but I always wanted to try and now I forgot
Pressure testing works. I do it and have a video somewhere showing the failed injector. At idle it would start missing and progressively get worse because it was filling the fuel rail with exhaust gases. It was cylinder 3 with the bad pintle and then #1 would start cutting out.
A vacuum test I wouldn't rely on. Even shop air pressure test isn't most reliable because it's low pressure of 150psi compared to the normal combustion chamber pressures.
Pressure testing works. I do it and have a video somewhere showing the failed injector. At idle it would start missing and progressively get worse because it was filling the fuel rail with exhaust gases. It was cylinder 3 with the bad pintle and then #1 would start cutting out.
A vacuum test I wouldn't rely on. Even shop air pressure test isn't most reliable because it's low pressure of 150psi compared to the normal combustion chamber pressures.