I did use the search feature but came up with almost nothing.

Typical "Check Engine Light" problem. It lit up about 1000 miles from home and i finally got it on a computer and here are the codes.

332 R,C EGR valve opening not detected
311 R Right Thermactor Air System inoperative

I replaced the EGR valve with one from autozone, I unplugged the computer for like 30 minutes. Started the truck and it came back on even quicker than it did before.

What should I do?

I have no idea what the 311 code is?
And the EGR valve cost me 79 bucks.......

please help me

thanks

johnny

 

if you have a manual, find the procedure for clearing the codes once you have done any repairs.

 

I went through the EGR thing.......needed the EGR valve position sensor rather than the EGR valve itself.

 

How bout clearing the memory by unhooking the battery for a few then hooking back up and see if light still comes on?

 

When reading the codes, unhook the scanner or jumper (whatever your using) before it finishes. This will clear the old codes.

 

I unplugged the battery overnight. I will be taking the truck back to my buddies shop and having it put back on the snap on scanner. Then i will swap the EGR sensor off of my fathers truck and check that out. to see if the stupid light goes off.

 

Check your EVR soleniod, it may be non-operational. The EVR soleniod controls vacuum to the EGR valve, If it is no operating correctly you will have either no vaccum or full vacuum to the EGR valve. If it had full vacuum, you would notice drivability problems or even stalling or rough Idle. With no vacuum, you would not notice any symptoms, but (either case) the light would come on and you would get that code for the EGR. If you run the tests (haynes manual) and the EVR is OK then it would be your EVP sensor (the white thing connected to the wire harness on the EGR valve that senses the EGR Valve Position, hense EVP). If that sensor does not send the correct signal to the PCM, you will get the CEL to light up also. The EVP sensor can be had at your local junk yard for ~$15, Take your 1/4 drive ratchet and 1/4in socket to remove the from the junked EGR valve. Any EVP sensor from 300-I6 or V8's can be used from 87-94, They all do the same thing, just different part numbers. I ended up using a EVP from a 93 5.8L on my 87 300-I6. It worked good.

Start by testing the EVR soleniod, I bet it is stuck shut.

Good luck.

 

fishin1976, thank you very much for the detailed answer. I will be checking those things tonite and I will swap the EVP off of my old mans truck tonite to see if that is the problem..


thank you very much

johnny

 

I bet there's a vacuum leak in the "coffee can" on the R wheelwell, or in the black line to the 3 emissions solenoid valves.

 

Ok this is what I tried.

I went to the EVR solonoid and swapped it with the one from my fathers truck. Reset the computer and still got the light. I then realized that there was no vaccum coming from the black hose that goes into the bottom of the EVR solonoid.

what do look at now that I know the the EVR is good and that there is no vaccum coming from the bottom black hose.

There is a lot of vaccum coming from the bottom black hose on my fathers truck so I am confident that there is supposed to be vaccum there.

thanks in advance for you help

johnny

 

Steve83 and Fishin1976 and everyone else who replied thanks

After carefully studying the vaccum system on that truck I came to find out that indeed the coffee can has a large hole in it.

now i just need to find a place that has a replacement coffee can.

I will get one tommorrow and see if this will solve my problem.

thanks again

 

You probably could patch it with epoxy resin glue , JB Weld or somethin.

 

I picked up a new "coffee can" at the local ford dealer for $31.00.

Now the engine light does not come on at all. I am very pleased with this.

thanks again all of you

johnny