Hi there

I am new to this site but have been viewing post for quite some time. A couple months ago I ended up breaking my front axle U-Joint on the driver's side of my 2008 F250 diesel. The repair quotes were starting at $3500 CAN (including a ball joint on the other side) with the possibility of the repair possibly being much higher so the truck has been sitting unused.

I picked up a used axle last weekend (inner and outer stub) and tied into the project yesterday evening with my 12 year old son. From what I read it seemed like I should be able to slide the axle out once the locking hub and bearing assembly was removed. I was planning to avoid changing the seal at the differential in the hopes it would not leak and only change the other required seals and any bearing needing replacement.

We ran into trouble right away in that the hub itself was shattered into pieces once I removed the three screws holding it on. After spending quite a bit of time getting most of the metal out I was unable to remove the last of the back end of the hub to get at the snap ring behind. We can slide the remaining portion of the hub out about and inch but it will not come completely out of the splines.

Given that this truck needs to be used this week for work I thought we would replace the bearing assembly after removing it and the stub axle out together. The four nuts holding the unit bearing assembly to the knuckle were removed but have not been able to get that off either. After several more hours and lots of P-Blaster sprayed everywhere possible we have only been able to get the bearing assembly to move about 3/8th of an inch from the knuckle. Been working it back and forth and it moves quite easily but will not come completely off. The tie rod was removed and I have also been able to hit the back of the stub axle with a large hammer(quite hard too) but we do not seem to be making any further progress.

Is there something we are missing?

Any suggestions? We have put a lot of time in here but seem to only be getting so far in terms of getting that bearing assembly off or the remainder of the hub out from around the axle stub either.

Thanks

Gary

 

Are you using a 3 jaw puller to remove the hub?

Do you have any pictures? Clicking the icon similar to below will allow you to directly upload photos from phone, PC or tablet.

 

Hi

Thanks for responding.

I do have a puller but it is too large to fit inside between what is left of the original hub and the axle protrusion beyond the clip.

We gave it a little more thought and I guess there is actually no way to bring the whole axle and unit bearing and all out of the knuckle without that clip coming off. But not really sure.

I managed to remove the small roller bearing from inside what was left at the back of the hub but there is still only about a 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch around the axle and it is about 2-3 inches to in making it somewhat impossible to get in there with snap ring pliers and remove the clip.

Not sure at all why the last remaining portion at the back of the hub does not come fully out as I am able to bring it ahead about an inch but not all the way out.

Going to run to town here one more time and see if there is any sort of small puller to get in there.

I tried to load a photo here but not too sure if it will come through.

 

Looks like a C-clip needs to be removed prior. What is all the markings on the HUB? were you beating on it with a punch or similar?

 

I just re-did my front axle. It was a bitch but not nearly as bad as yours. You may need to use a sharp chisel and break the rest of the hub out. You then need a big long snap ring plier to get the snap ring off. Then your unit bearing should come all the way off.

 

Yes

I was using my air chisel to get the smaller inner bearing out in pieces but still not quite enough room to get my snap ring pliers to reach the clip.

The rest of the pieces of the hub were broken up when I took it apart. I assume that happened when the U-joint broke. Everything came out but that last piece blocking the clip. It would, and still slides ahead about an inch but then stops. The splines were total clean and undamaged as far as we could see by looking very carefully. Seems almost like it was being held in from behind. It is tough to pull outwards on it very hard but was able to hook it from the back with a small improvised tool but it would not come out the rest of the way.

Did not want to wreck the unit bearing and still have not hit it despite how beat up the part of the hub is. Don't think the bearing itself is bad but I guess the only option to get that clip out is break apart that last piece of the hub which will almost certainly damage the inside spline of the bearing.

Unfortunately the bearing out the door here in Canada was over $700. For one side!

Going to try a little longer here but I think we have more than 10 hours on this project already.

Thanks

Gary

 

I can't even manage to break apart that piece in the hub with an air chisel to get at the snap ring. Been hammering on it endlessly

It is getting a little late here so going to shut things down for the night as to not disturb the neighbors any longer.

Is it possible to remove the ball joints with the axles still in the knuckle and bearing assembly there as well? Not really the normal procedure at all but I can get at that clip.

The bearing assembly, axles, and hub are bad anyway. I do also need to new ball joints on the other side as they are very worn and may as well change both sides at the same time. Although after this weekend I may take the truck in to get the other side done. Assuming I get this side together tomorrow to drive it there.

Not too sure if I can get everything out of the knuckle without damaging it but after the price of the new bearing a used knuckle from a wrecker is not too much of a concern at this point.

Any suggestions as a last effort to try to get this bearing assembly off WITHOUT being able to get at that snap ring would be very much appreciated.

Thanks Gary

 

If you have the unit bearing unbolted you should be able to slide it all out together. There is a seal behind the unit bearing inside the knuckle attached to the axke shaft that can be quite tough to break free. Put a long bar behind a yoke ear and pry the axle outward. Plus being you have the tierod off, you can put a block of wood on the yoke and give it a smack with a hammer to push it out. I'll put a bet on the seal holding you up. That gets the axle out but you still have to get it out of the bearing if you want to reuse it.

 

My bet is on your axle seal holding it in as well....Try and get in from behind and pound it out with a drift or a bar or something...i used and old 3/8" ratchet extension.....you'll have to turn the wheel side to side in order to get good access to hit with the hammer...takes a bit but will eventually break the seal free...fyi knuckle seal is ruined after this.

 

Yes exactly, replace the seals. If you have the time to wait get them on Amazon. Normally about $50 a piece at the auto parts stores, almost half that on Amazon.

 

Thanks

You were both right it was that seal holding everything in. Took a narrow punch to it from the back side in the gap around the axle and had it out in a few minutes this morning.

I had all but given up hope of getting the axle and bearing assembly out of the knuckle in one piece.

Never did see that snap ring behind the axle on the one side after trying to remove; then finally break that final piece at the back end of the hub inside the bearing assembly. Spent a couple hours Friday evening then the entire day Saturday at it with the hopes of saving that bearing assembly.

My 12 year old son pulled the original hub out of the other side in less than a minute and had to call me around to show me what the snap ring I had been trying to get at for a day and a half looked like.

Thanks again

 

We also managed to find one of the large seals today for $51 which is less half what I paid for the first one purchased on Friday that is going to be returned.

With taxes included I did end up paying over $180 for a large, very over-priced seal installing tool!!

 

It's too bad you weren't able to wait to order the seal driver from Amazon. Much cheaper!

It is still worth every penny though.

 

I know the one I made out of a plumbing flange for the older axles isn't as fancy and you have to watch not to overdrive a seal but it only cost 5-10$. Are the newer axles not similar?

 

Nope they are different