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Old May 10, 2016 | 07:19 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Ripemdry
Thank you for all your help and steering me in the right direction. I ended up getting a motorcraft rt-139 probably paid to much but at least i know it's correct. Now on to the rest of the cooling system. Next up radiator re-core, heater core, water pump and hoses. Trying to go through this truck system by system. Hopefully ending up with a bullet proof slide in camper mobile.
How did you get the rt-139? Up here in Ontario they are obsolete and unavailable. If anyone has a link or source for one I would be interested. I am using a Robertshaw now, but when its time for a change.......? The Stant that was previously listed did not work for me.
 
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Old May 10, 2016 | 11:44 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Ripemdry
Thank you for all your help and steering me in the right direction. I ended up getting a motorcraft rt-139 probably paid to much but at least i know it's correct. Now on to the rest of the cooling system. Next up radiator re-core, heater core, water pump and hoses. Trying to go through this truck system by system. Hopefully ending up with a bullet proof slide in camper mobile.
Please please please take a pic of your rt-139 and post it. The two links I posted in #25 are supposedly of rt-139 thermostats and they look EXACTLY like a stant. The stants I posted are what is in my 351m and have the little do-dad on the bottom to shut off the bypass. 351Cs have an extra part/hat that they need if ever lost, so the 351c stuff MAY not apply.
 
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Old May 10, 2016 | 11:47 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by captainwoot
How did you get the rt-139? Up here in Ontario they are obsolete and unavailable. If anyone has a link or source for one I would be interested. I am using a Robertshaw now, but when its time for a change.......? The Stant that was previously listed did not work for me.
Post number 22 Stant numbers should work.
 
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Old May 10, 2016 | 11:52 PM
  #34  
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I wish I could find the notes I had for these thermostats. I know Gates has a suitable one and there are a few others besides what's been mentioned. I walked into my local parts store with a list of at least ten part numbers that would work that had the little hat on the underside. Parts counters don't know squat. They tried to sell me a bogus thermostat at first and I wouldn't bite.
 
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Old May 11, 2016 | 12:05 AM
  #35  
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Found the list.

Stant 180 29468
Stant 192 29469
Stant 180 13468
Stant 192 13469
Stant 192 S-346-192
Gates 180 33128
Gates 192 33129
RobertShaw 180 333-180
Ford/Motorcraft 180 RT-310
Ford/Motorcraft 192 RT-139
Ford 180 D7PZ-8575-A
Napa 180 197
 
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Old May 11, 2016 | 12:39 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by somethingclever
None of the t-stat's listed in this thread are the correct ones. (except for the original motorcraft P/N's by numberdummy)


Will they work good enough? Most likely.


Do they function as per original design? No they do not.



BS.

Apparently Ford thinks Stant is good enough to be an OEM supplier, as do many others.

Stant

Don't get caught up in the "only OEM stuff will work" line, cause the OEMs have what are known as parts suppliers. Ford themselves do NOT make thermostats. They buy them from someone who does, and installs them during assembly just like myriad other parts that make up an auto. I'm from Michigan and I can tell you that there are parts suppliers everywhere, making all kinds of stuff. OEM stuff. My wife works a parts supplier. They have contracts with every manufacturer with a plant in the USA. Sure, you can buy a genuine Ford part number and it will be correct, but understand that it may not be made by Ford and it may be available elsewhere easier to aquire and cheaper. You just have to know where to look.
 
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Old May 11, 2016 | 06:36 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by palmrose2
Please please please take a pic of your rt-139 and post it. The two links I posted in #25 are supposedly of rt-139 thermostats and they look EXACTLY like a stant. The stants I posted are what is in my 351m and have the little do-dad on the bottom to shut off the bypass. 351Cs have an extra part/hat that they need if ever lost, so the 351c stuff MAY not apply.

As soon as it comes I'll post a picture.
 
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Old May 11, 2016 | 03:49 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by palmrose2
BS.

Apparently Ford thinks Stant is good enough to be an OEM supplier, as do many others.

Stant

Don't get caught up in the "only OEM stuff will work" line, cause the OEMs have what are known as parts suppliers. Ford themselves do NOT make thermostats. They buy them from someone who does, and installs them during assembly just like myriad other parts that make up an auto. I'm from Michigan and I can tell you that there are parts suppliers everywhere, making all kinds of stuff. OEM stuff. My wife works a parts supplier. They have contracts with every manufacturer with a plant in the USA. Sure, you can buy a genuine Ford part number and it will be correct, but understand that it may not be made by Ford and it may be available elsewhere easier to aquire and cheaper. You just have to know where to look.


You mean to tell me that Ford didn't make my tires? Man that sucks I really thought they did!




To the point at hand, according to STANT's website, that P/N you posted in 22 is indeed, not correct, if the picture is of the unit listed.


Please read this thread to inform yourself of the correct T-stat.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...400-found.html
 
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Old May 13, 2016 | 10:42 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by somethingclever
You mean to tell me that Ford didn't make my tires? Man that sucks I really thought they did!




To the point at hand, according to STANT's website, that P/N you posted in 22 is indeed, not correct, if the picture is of the unit listed.


Please read this thread to inform yourself of the correct T-stat.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...400-found.html
So apparently only a Robert Shaw 333 series is correct. That is the gist of the thread you mentioned. Got $20 that says rt-139 does not look like the pic in the thread you mentioned. The RS is, as far as I can tell, a thermostat that is rated @ a higher flow, is less restrictive. The RS is one of the stats in my list. It will work as Ford intended. I still hold that others will. Especially the Stants in post 22. The weakness of the pics is that they don't show the bottom, which is everything. Notice the similarities between http://www.oehq.com/partpix/motjpg/rt139.jpg which has "rt139" in the address, (post #25) and Stant Thermostats 13469 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing in post # 22.

It's all about the little hat on the bottom of the thermostat that closes off the recirculation for the water pump when @ operating temperature.
 
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Old May 13, 2016 | 10:53 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by somethingclever


To the point at hand, according to STANT's website, that P/N you posted in 22 is indeed, not correct, if the picture is of the unit listed.

Just went to the stant website. PartCat They list 13469 as the 195 degree thermostat, and 13468 as the 180 degree thermostat that is appropriate for a 1979 Ford F250 "6.6L V8 400 CID".

Perhaps you were visiting a different STANT website.
 
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Old May 14, 2016 | 07:23 AM
  #41  
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Got the thermostat yesterday so here are the pictures





 
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Old May 18, 2016 | 01:57 PM
  #42  
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Last edited by palmrose2; May 18, 2016 at 04:58 PM. Reason: hopefully better pics
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Old May 18, 2016 | 02:45 PM
  #43  
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This could be good....would need to do the following:

Measure the distance of each unit from the mounting flange to the bottom of the cup.

I will measure my block soon.

If the T-stat is too short to hit the casting in the block, it is no good.
 
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Old May 18, 2016 | 05:02 PM
  #44  
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LOL I did this about a month ago but didn't write down the figures. Heated the thermostat too, to make sure it opened far enough to actually shut off the recirculation port. Measurements are gone with the wind.

I see slight differences, but one similarity that stands out is the orientation of "54mm" and "USA". Looks to me like the same line, different day.
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 07:20 AM
  #45  
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I have measured a rt-139 just because I had it on hand. I did not have time to heat it up.
The bottom flange was .667” diameter.
The depth from flange to flange cold is .856”
 
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