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Joined: Apr 2003
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So I drive into town , get some stuff , and when I come back to the truck , I push the button and the starter just whirss. So I say to myself (no biggie , this happened before , I rolled back and it started right up). Well I try and roll back , whirrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. Push it off to the side of the road , tapp the starter with a rock , nothing tried everything in the book to get it to catch , nothing. So we finally bump start it and I get home. Anyone else have this problem , I heard its notorious in older fords like mine (52 F1) Starter is toast , any recomendation to a new one , or is it pretty much 1 starter is good as another.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 3,730
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From: Waynesville, OH
Starter
Doesn't sound like your starter, sounds like your starter drive (sometimes called a Bendix cuz the Bendix company made a whole lot of them). Starter drives run around $20 to $25 from the mail order places. You can replace it yourself - there was a thread a week or two ago talking about how to remove the pin and install the new unit.
If you have the time and are interested, you can rebuild your starter including bearings and new brushes for less than $20. $40 to $45 for a rebuilt starter with a new starter drive is a pretty good deal.
If you have the time and are interested, you can rebuild your starter including bearings and new brushes for less than $20. $40 to $45 for a rebuilt starter with a new starter drive is a pretty good deal.
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 126
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From: Northwest
Starter
I had the same story last month and just prayed it was the starter and not a chunk out of the flywheel. If you get a whirrrrr, it sounds like the starter drive is broken or jambed. I pulled my starter and found the Bendix spring was broken and a few teeth were chipped. I mail ordered a new one and had it back in the truck less than a week. Meanwhile I also replaced bushings and verified my brushes and commutator were in good condition. I suspect going to 12V is hard on the starter with more starting torque and higher cranking speed.
Johann
Johann
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Joined: Oct 1999
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From: Kalispell, MT
Starter
Assumption that you have a flathead in that thing. If so, Johann is on the right track - these are easy to fix. Likely you broke either the bendix spring or one of the bolts that hold it to the shaft backed out.
No biggie either way. By the way, bendix springs are available at most suppliers including Snyder's Antique Auto, New Springfield, Ohio - they have a web site. For all you trivia buffs, Ford used the same bendix spring on the model A's that they did on the flathead V8's '32 thru '53.
Crawl under, unbolt the power cable, then the two thru the case bolts that hold the starter to the flywheel cover and any braces to the oilpan that may still be there. Carefully work the starter out and inspect it. The problem will be obvious. Let us know what you find and if you need more info.
No biggie either way. By the way, bendix springs are available at most suppliers including Snyder's Antique Auto, New Springfield, Ohio - they have a web site. For all you trivia buffs, Ford used the same bendix spring on the model A's that they did on the flathead V8's '32 thru '53.
Crawl under, unbolt the power cable, then the two thru the case bolts that hold the starter to the flywheel cover and any braces to the oilpan that may still be there. Carefully work the starter out and inspect it. The problem will be obvious. Let us know what you find and if you need more info.
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Allright guys , thanks. Ill start on it sometime this weekend , atleast take the starter out and see whats up with it. My grandfather said the same thing , ether a hole in the flywheel , or the spring is broken. Ill letcha know what I find when I take it out.
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Yea , it was the spring. So its the same as the model A's spring? (Snyder Antique) Johann where did you mail order yours from? Oh and the dustcover by the spring , I demolished it getting it out. Umm , how do you put those in , drive them in from the inside or?
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,765
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From: Kalispell, MT
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They're sorta shaped like a thermos cup with a flange. They push in place from the inside. It should be a snug fit - you can use a punch to tighten the flange to the bell housing after you get it in place. Be careful, you can break expensive to replace parts if you get too carried away with the hammer.
Once you get your dust cap tapped back into shape, it should be pretty evident how it goes back in.
Snyder's has the spring, but I've purchased from Sacramento Vintage Ford, and I'm sure Mac's Antique Auto parts also has them, and Joblot Automotive, etc. You might even try NAPA or your favorite auto parts place. I've even bought a box of them on ebay in the past.
Once you get your dust cap tapped back into shape, it should be pretty evident how it goes back in.
Snyder's has the spring, but I've purchased from Sacramento Vintage Ford, and I'm sure Mac's Antique Auto parts also has them, and Joblot Automotive, etc. You might even try NAPA or your favorite auto parts place. I've even bought a box of them on ebay in the past.
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Nah , I need to order a new dustcover , I punched a hole in the old one. What are they called , cant find them under the starter category. Would it be bellhousing dustcap , or flywheel dustcap or?
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 126
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From: Northwest
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I ordered a complete drive unit from C&G Early Ford Parts due to the chipped teeth. Count the teeth to be sure you get the correct one or if you don't need to replace it, be sure it is clean and moves freely. I also replaced the drive end bushing because mine was a bit sloppy. This was probably not necessary, but as long as I had it out I might as well. Also check the brushes and replace them if needed. If anything is going to wear out and fail, it is the brushes. Oh yes, I gave it a fresh coat of paint before I re-installed.
While my truck was disabled I pulled the radiator to get a leak fixed and it more or less crumbled at the radiator shop. I also completely replaced my fuel line. The new radiator arrived this morning and I'll be back on the road soon!
Johann
While my truck was disabled I pulled the radiator to get a leak fixed and it more or less crumbled at the radiator shop. I also completely replaced my fuel line. The new radiator arrived this morning and I'll be back on the road soon!
Johann
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Joined: Jun 2003
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Johann5
Is the new radiator a modern efficent type or the original straight drop core?
I tend to overheat in Miami due to the original design not being efficent at all. Considering re-coring it with a more efficent design but also want to keep her original.
Is the new radiator a modern efficent type or the original straight drop core?
I tend to overheat in Miami due to the original design not being efficent at all. Considering re-coring it with a more efficent design but also want to keep her original.
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 126
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From: Northwest
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Well, what do I know about radiators? It fits. The design is the same as the wreck that came out, top and bottom cans and vertical tubes. Looks like the original. I got it from Obsolete Ford Parts in OK. Some minor differences, radiator cap is smaller, top hose connection is straight and not angled down and there are extra connections on the back of the lower can apparently for a transmission cooler.
I haven't had overheating problems, but we don't have Miami weather in the northwest.
Johann
I haven't had overheating problems, but we don't have Miami weather in the northwest.
Johann