So I couldn't get the external transmission filter cap or housing apart. So I did the transmission fluid change, changed out the internal filter.

Everything looked good inside the pan and the filter.

Since I can't get the external filter changed, and I have heard it only filters out at most 10% of the fluid and is a bypass anyways, what mileage should I change out the internal filter if I am never going to change out the external?

Thanks guys - Preston

 

IIRC the internal filter is a glorified rock catcher, the external one is the filter that should be replaced.
A couple of raps with an impact didn't break her loose?

 

Couldn't say but if i was relying on one filter I'd go to the 6.4 pan and filter (mines still in the box waiting on me to do the fluid change )

 

Right there ^^^^^^
Impact that thing off, put the 6.4 pan on and the new internal filter and never change the TP filter... take it out and don't put it back.

 

I will be doing the 6.4 pan and filter when I get I money.

 

I think I paid $93 for the pan, gasket and filter. Used Wolfs Head brand fluid from Fleet Supply, was SP rated at around $3.50 a jug.

 

Yep surprisingly cheap upgrade.

 

Preston: did you try any penetrating oil on the external filter housing? Like PB Blaster or the like... Give it some time and hit it with short rattle gun bursts.

Then put the 6.4 pan and filter on anyway

on edit: I didn't even replace the pan gasket on the trans pan swap-out (it's a re-usable type) -- it is dry as a bone under there too...

 

I had a tough time getting the external filter off of mine. I ended up buying a cheap impact drill and within about 8 seconds of "hammering" it, the cap came loose and the rest of the filter change went smooth.

If you don't already have an impact wrench/drill, it is worth getting one for these trucks. any time you have a stuck bolt, more often than not, the impact will make short work of it. I went with the Black and Decker matrix series cordless drill and got the impact attachment for it. It was only $90 for the whole setup at Walmart and it even comes with a lithium battery. I remember when a replacement lithium battery cost more than my whole setup.

 

There was a thread on her last year about this issue when I did mine and the consensus was to use an impact (air) wrench to get it off.

 

I will give the penetrating oil spray a go, and get a cheap air chisel gun. Thanks Scott, and everyone else for your responses.

 

Not an air chisel, impact wrench. It's just amazing how easy it is to get this off with an impact compared to manually wrenching it off.

 

Thats a BIG problem. The nut on the bottom of the cap is broke off

 

Yes, yes it is. You didn't mention that in this tread.

In another thread, either here or another forum, someone had to deal with that. I'll try to find it.

Edit:

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/...-broke-277844/


http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/...me-off-293359/

 

While that ended up working for him, it wouldn't be the next thing I would try.

I'd do the penetrating oil, then get a spring steel oil filter wrench on there as tight as possible, then I'd tap the handle with a small sledge hammer.

If that didn't work Id try heating the filter base (say using a 100 watt incandescent bulb), and after that sits up there for a half hour, take a zip-lock baggy of ice or better yet a frozen ice wrap and put that around the canister. Leave that on for just a minute or two and try number 1 again. I think the canister is the male piece threaded into the female filter housing? right?? Because if it is the other way around you'd want to apply the heat and cold the other way around.... EDIT: I just looked at a picture of one (tells you how long since I did mine...) -- it IS THE OTHER WAY AROUND!!! so heat goes on canister and cold on housing!!! DUH!!

That air hammer could go wrong in soooo many ways (at least they can when I'm running them! )