I've been lurking on this forum from time to time and I can usually find answers I need without posting. This time I'm coming up with mixed information. I just installed a new transmission and tc into my 7.3 and want to make sure everything is installed correctly because I'm having starting issue that hopefully don't involve an incorrectly installed tc.

I followed the steps for installing the tc and know at one point it was seated all the way but not sure if something happened during install causing it to move forward. I didn't have to use the bell housing bolts to pull the tranny into the block but the tc studs were moving through the flex plate just as the alignment pins were entering the bell housing. I can move my tc slightly backwards, maybe a 1/8" to 1/4" gap between the tc and flex plate. I can also rotate the tc slightly back and forth in the flex plate holes.

I've read in a few locations that you should be able to move the tc back from the flex plate when unbolted and rotate it freely. I don't see this happening with how long the tc studs are. I'm hoping someone can tell me whether all this is normal and I should investigate other possible starting issues or if pulling the tranny again is my best route. I've attached a picture showing the tc to flex plate gap for reference.

Thanks for the help. It's much appreciated. Let me know if I can offer anything else up to solve my problem.

BTW starter is brand new and bench tests show it in working order.

 

I've had about 1/4" gap there on every engine I've installed. There's never been enough space for the torque converter studs to be completely disengaged from the flex plate. It sounds like what you're seeing is as it should be.

 

Thanks for the reply. And based on that picture you think that gap seems to be appropriate?

 

That's with the engine to bell housing bolts tight? Looks fine to me if so. There will be a little fore/aft movement of the torque converter with the stud nuts not installed, that's normal.

 

Yes. That is with the bell housing bolts tight. I appreciate the help. Sounds like I'll be looking into other problems.

 

What are the symptoms you're trying to fix?

 

Looks good to me.

 

Try another starter,it would be the easiest next move.

 

The starter is turning over the engine now. I know with trucks before 02 if the tach wasn't registering while cranking it could be the CPS. I'm not registering any RPMs when AE is hooked up. Does anyone know if AE should register RPM's on a vehicle with the hybrid cluster while cranking? I should have an extra CPS to throw at it anyhow so I'll give that a shot

If that doesn't work. Next step is to look into the High pressure oil system with AE.

 

Yes, a scan tool should see cranking RPM. Try the new CMP and see what happens.

 

Replaced it and now have RPMs on scan tool but no start. ICP is reading 0 when hooked up but 2000 something when unhooked. I think I found the culprit being the high pressure oil system just not sure what exactly. ICP is only about a year old ford unit but could still be the culprit. Injector buzz test sounds good. IPR possibly?

When the transmission was out I did replace seals on the HPOP fittings and installed an hpx. Being that it was running fine when the transmission went out besides a couple leaks I would think it would be a problem I created.

 

did you rebuild the IPR when you had it out. Reason I ask is if you put the needle valve in the wrong way it won't build pressure.

 

Most often a failed IPR will still allow some ICP to build. I usually see them between 200-300 psi cranking cold. I have a gut feeling this is going to end up being a failed HPOP but I may be wrong. Was the HPOP removed lately for the reseal? If so, you might check the drive gear bolt and make sure it's torqued to 96 ft/lbs.

This is a cold engine with the IPR disconnected, so not operating at all:

 

I did not take the IPR out. I put off resealing it for now. I have not taken the hpop out since I've had it.

I actually finally got it started. After letting it run for about 15 seconds I noticed a pool of oil under the vehicle. Checking it out it looks like I might have a leak at on of the hpx fittings.

 

Oh, well that's a good sign. May have just been not enough cranking time to build pressure after the work you did. Get the leak ironed out and let us know how it goes.