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I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew with a 5.4L V8. Once I accelerate up to speed (40 - 55 mph) and level off, the engine acts like it is missing. If I accelerate more the engine smooths out, but if I am driving steady at that speed it starts to miss again. I have cleaned the fuel system and replaced the fuel filter. There is no code saved on the computer to identify the issue. You can physically feel the truck jerking. Any clues?
May be a coil (COP). They have been a weakness. If so, SES light will probably come on soon, and then the DTC will indicate which cylinder is missing. This happened to me (2001, 4.6).
What mileage do you have? Have you serviced the trans?
Mpotter,
First off, welcome to FTE. I think you'll like what you find.
Not sure about the problem you describe, but wonder...
any chance it could be the torque converter or transmission?
Does the problem occur at any speed, so long as you are not accelerating?
Does it occur in any gear, as long as you are not accelerating?
I'm not very technical so please excuse me if my question is not very intelligent. Is that an ignition coil or another coil? I bought the truck used but I'm pretty sure that the trans has not been serviced, it has 75,000 miles. Is a coil something that can be replaced fairly simply by yourself?
Thanks for the welcome. It never happens when accelerating, but it also never happens at approx. 60 mph or higher. It is an automatic so it seems to happen only when in overdrive.
My suggestion: invest in a transmission flush and refill. My dad had a very similar problem and the transmission deal solved his problem.
I have heard and read more than once that these transmissions are not as forgiving as some as far as failure to service goes.
Since you get no lights flashing to indicate the computer is reporting a fault, I'd say the transmission flush/fill is a good option to start with.
By the way, no need to apologize for not being "very technical" we are all here to help.
About the coil question;
The 5.4 V8 uses what is called "coil-on-plug" (COP) ignition. The plugs require very high voltage leves to create the spark that arcs across the gap and lights off the fuel-air mixture in the clyinder. The COP ignition has a single coil mounted on each individual spark plug. This keeps the ignition system at low voltage until right at the spark plugs, where the coils turn the low voltage into high voltage.
yes, you can replace them yourself. Depending on which one(s) might be bad, it could be fairly easy or a bit of a hassle. But in either case, not something extremely difficult.
Keep coming back....we'll (hopefully!) help you get this issue solved.
COP! I think you'll need to get an oscilloscope (dealer or expert mechanic), if your SES light hasn't come on. Alternately, a balance test would indicate the likely culprit. Apparently a minor misfire (which you can still notice) will not light up the SES light, which (by DTC) would pinpoint the cylinder. It'll probably get worse and eventually illuminate the SES, but who knows when?
They're too expensive to guess on, but you could buy one or two and try different positions, if you have more time than money. I would start with #4, which is under the heater hoses at the back on the passenger side. Yes, ..it is difficult to get at!
They seem to burn out like light bulbs, so to some extent, this is like replacing spark plugs early. Some even advocate changing them all as preventative maintenance for high mileage vehicles that you want to keep using.
Good luck,
Brian S.
My wife tells me I'm insensitive, but it can't be true, because I notice all these little things on my truck!
have u checked the sprak plugs for corosion, or volt test all the plug wires, if not that the distrubotor cap and rotor might need to be replaced, or the whole distributor itself
It appears then that the problem is noticed under light load (i.e. holding steady speed/rpm). How does it idle? Any (even slight) signs of a miss?
Second guess is (like others here) ignition / spark plugs. I'm not so sure about the plug wires themselves, being that they are low voltage with the COP configuration. Now, as for the coils themselves going bad, I can't say for sure. Not something I personally have heard a lot about, but that sure doesn't mean it's a rare event.
I do know that changing the plugs and wires for my 4.2 corrected a stumble/miss problem. BUT....the 4.2 does not use COP ignition and my problem was at 95,000 miles (or somewhere near that).
I'd say your next step would be plugs. If that doesn't solve it, then the wires/coils. (OUCH!)
One last question; If you have the transmission in park or neutral and hold steady at say 2500-3000 rpm, do you notice any stumble, miss, pop, etc?
keep us posted!
I am currently experincing the same problem on my 97 5.4
We have eliminated everything except the coil packs. Now I am trying to decide if I should replace them all or just figure out which one(or several??) it is and replace the bad one
I am currently experincing the same problem on my 2001 f150 with the 4.6l engine with 65,000 miles. seems to be the same problem while in overdrive and lightly acelerating get the miss and jerking. i have paid $100.00 to have this checked out and was told there is no codes and when they hook up a computer to my truck it picks up the third or fourth misss in a row but wont pinpoint which cylinder it is. i have been quoted $350.00 to change the plugs and visualy inspect the coil packs but have been warned no guarrentes that this will solve my problem. also if i put the truck in gear and have my foot on the brake and rev engine up slowly i get the miss at about 1200 to 1400 rpm which seems to be the same as when driving and in od. i had the transmission serviced two weeks prior to this problem.
does any one know how difficult it is to change the plugs myself. the mechanic said something about lifting the fuel rails.
Originally posted by BigPro
does any one know how difficult it is to change the plugs myself. the mechanic said something about lifting the fuel rails.
Same problem here with my 2001 4.6 Supercrew. I have replaced three since June 2003 also, all the plugs. I was hoping to find an alternative to this FORD WEAKNESS but have not yet. I noticed two weeks ago the little miss is back. So here goes number four. I had the dealer replace the first bad one, with warranty it cost $150. The second bad one I changed over $80. The third one I had replaced by another dealer which assured me that nothing was making these go bad but themselves charged $120. This is becoming expensive not to mention I probably will never buy a Ford again. It's a shame because I really like this truck.
If anyone knows of an after market design which can be incorporated Please post.
I did change the one myself and all the plugs in which you have to remove the COP's . It was a pain but not hard to do. Also, on my 4.6 the fuel rail did not have to come off.
did you have any codes showing up? if not how were you able to determine which coil was bad? i do not have any codes showing and really would prefer to just change one coil than to changing all the spark plugs then doing one coil at a time. also is it the same cylinder each time?
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