First Code
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First Code
I have a 2012 F250 6.7L with about 62,000 miles on it. I purchased this truck new in October 2013. I had my first check engine light last Friday. I scanned it and it was a P20BD (Reductant Heater "B" Control Circuit/Open) is what I found when I searched for it. I had the truck in on Tuesday to the dealer. They are telling me it is the Reductant Pressure Line and the repair will be $690. They didn't have the part so I picked up my truck and have an appointment scheduled for Monday.
Since picking the truck the check engine light hasn't returned. I find this odd and it makes me wonder if they are correct or not in their diagnostics.
The other question I have is isn't the DEF system part of the emissions system? If so why isn't it covered under the emissions system warranty until 80,000 miles or 5 years?
Since picking the truck the check engine light hasn't returned. I find this odd and it makes me wonder if they are correct or not in their diagnostics.
The other question I have is isn't the DEF system part of the emissions system? If so why isn't it covered under the emissions system warranty until 80,000 miles or 5 years?
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I had a code at about 15k?? I don't remember what it was, its listed on here somewhere, but I cleared it and it never came back. My check engine light never came on. My Torque Pro notified me. If you are able to clear the code yourself I would do that and see if it comes back. If the truck is running properly and the code doesn't come back it could just be a glitch in the system. I'm sure someone with more knowledge than me will chime in shortly with more info.
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Joined: Aug 2015
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From: Fort Worth
I purchased a scangage so I can read and clear my own codes. I got that same code 6 weeks ago ... cleared it and it came right back. Purchased a replacement (Dorman) heater from Rock Auto $192 shipped. I installed it myself. Saved hundreds of dollars. I trust myself far more than the dealer. The job is not complicated, but we will say it is "involved". If you're not a grease monkey, you will want someone to do this for you. There is a video on YouTube about the process. Good Luck!!
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Joined: Aug 2015
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From: Fort Worth
Hold on - I just re-read your post. Control circuit open is NOT the pressure line - its the small heating element circuit in the bottom of the heater that is inserted into the DEF tank. The Ford OEM part is $350+ ... probably a minimum of 4 shop hours. Ford quoted me as high as $450 just for the part. The Dorman is an exact duplicate and, since it does not relate directly to engine or drive train function, I felt comfortable going with a non OEM part. I was happy with the part and it is functioning well.
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Hold on - I just re-read your post. Control circuit open is NOT the pressure line - its the small heating element circuit in the bottom of the heater that is inserted into the DEF tank. The Ford OEM part is $350+ ... probably a minimum of 4 shop hours. Ford quoted me as high as $450 just for the part. The Dorman is an exact duplicate and, since it does not relate directly to engine or drive train function, I felt comfortable going with a non OEM part. I was happy with the part and it is functioning well.
MammaJamma,
That is what I don't understand. The odd part is our weather is warmer now and I have no code. HMM... Sure sounds like a heater to me.
I'm going to look into the Dorman heater.
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Joined: Aug 2015
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From: Fort Worth
I sent you the part number. I don't really think it has anything to do with cold/hot. This is simply an electronic part that has served its life - the circuit is now open and, unless you repair it, it wont function and the code won't clear.
I have a good assortment of tools and I watched the video online. Remove a couple of steel guards, then the DEF tank. The hardest part is working under the truck. Once the DEF tank is out, remove the old heater assy, empty DEF (it will get dirty/contaminated during this work, install the new heater then put it all back together. Careful with the wiring connections - one top of the DEF tank is kind of "feel your way".
Like I said, not difficult, just somewhat involved. I'd do it again if I had to. I took my time about it ... it took 4-5 hours. In the end, I was very happy that I did the work.
I have a good assortment of tools and I watched the video online. Remove a couple of steel guards, then the DEF tank. The hardest part is working under the truck. Once the DEF tank is out, remove the old heater assy, empty DEF (it will get dirty/contaminated during this work, install the new heater then put it all back together. Careful with the wiring connections - one top of the DEF tank is kind of "feel your way".
Like I said, not difficult, just somewhat involved. I'd do it again if I had to. I took my time about it ... it took 4-5 hours. In the end, I was very happy that I did the work.
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