When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
On my '97 F250 the rear brake line going to the rear right wheel has a rusted hole. It measures 50" total. Instead of bending a new metal line. I see they have a "poly armor" line that can be bent by hand( no tools needed). Have anyone use this. I see Autozone has them.
Not sure ifit's the same stuff or not but I bought a length of brake line from Auto Zone - it had a black coating on it but seemed like regular brake line to me. I used my tubing bender to get the bends in it I needed. Auto zone also will loan you a tubing bender for FREE. You have to buy it ought right but they reimburse you 100% when you bring the tool back.
A cheap tubing bender is only a couple of dollars. I think mine was about $5 at advance. I haven't seen the stuff you are talking about though. Let us know how it works if you decide to use it.
I've never seen a brake line that can't be bent by hand that goes on cars or pickup trucks. I've never changed a brake line without having to bend it a little to get it to lineup. My method is using a box wrench as a pry tool to bend them.
Raccoons, dogs, pedestrians...
I'm just saying that, while the easily flexible lines may be perfectly serviceable, to my mind they can't be as strong as lines that require a tool to bend, so given a choice, I'd go with the old skool stuff.
I'll also admit to a bias against anything that smacks of "universal fit" characteristics. They never seem to fit my application quite right.
Raccoons, dogs, pedestrians...
I'm just saying that, while the easily flexible lines may be perfectly serviceable, to my mind they can't be as strong as lines that require a tool to bend, so given a choice, I'd go with the old skool stuff.
I'll also admit to a bias against anything that smacks of "universal fit" characteristics. They never seem to fit my application quite right.
Brake line is not structural and is not mean to be.
Brake line is not structural and is not mean to be.
Never said it was structural.
I said that it seems to me that the new stuff might be less durable. This would constitute an opportunity for somebody that has worked with the new stuff to give their opinion on the durability of it as compared to the more rigid tubing we all know and love.
Brakes are a safety device and personally I use original design. The exception is I do use upgraded braided steel hoses over stock rubber hose. I've hD brKes fail due to a line blow out and it gets hairy fast.
I also haven't heard of the kind of lines that you're talking about, but I HAVE encountered brake failure...on TWO trucks (1997 and 2004 F250s) within two weeks of each other...FOR THE SAME REASON: corroded line running across the rear axle between the two rear wheels. Moral of the story: If you live in the rust belt, consider SS lines or periodically (say every 3-5 yrs) evaluate/replace the rusted junk that's supposed to be protecting your life and the lives of those who ride with you!
Looked up the product online and the only thing that seems different from the standard line is that instead of electroplated, it has a synthetic coating.
Personally, I would go all eurotrash and use copper nickle alloy (cupronickel) brake line that is easier to bend and flare (particularly ISO bubble flares). Volvo, Mercedes and BMW have been using it for years and I used it on our last two race cars because (shocker) all the steel line have leaks from corrosion on 20+ year old cars from the rust belt.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.