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So my tranny sometimes at an idle in neutral makes a weird metal in water sound, never consitant, and fourth gear is really loud scratching sound. Truck has 140k on it with previous owner stating a new clutch. If the dmf is bad, I'm not gonna spend 500 on a clutch job because that's half what I paid for this truck. And sometimes when shifting when I let out the clutch it hops. I put a Mercon Dino atf in it, maybe 30wt will quiet it down?
Depends on who you ask, some swear only atf but plenty use oil to quiet stuff down. Do your own research and decide for yourself, but either way will be fine.
Depends on who you ask, some swear only atf but plenty use oil to quiet stuff down. Do your own research and decide for yourself, but either way will be fine.
So i was told 30wt non detergent would be way to go if I had a smf, what happens if you got a dmf with the 30wt?
I swapped a ZF into my old 96 F150, and even after a full rebuild it still sounded like a fricken washing machine. I did all the bearings, synchronizers, and replaced all the main shaft gears; yup still noisy. Some manual transmissions are just noisy, I rebuild medium and heavy duty manuals for a living. You want to hear something loud, listen to a Mack Maxitorque. Those things ROAR, but we're talking about straight cut gears and triple countershafts. My own experience with my ZF, I had good luck with running 2 quarts of Lucas Oil Stabilizer and slightly over fill with DM ATF.
ZF calls for SYNTHETIC ATF for the ZF5 behind a diesel engine.
What does the purchase price of the truck have to do with how much you're willing to spend to maintain it? The only meaningful number is how much the truck would cost to replace if you had to. If you had gotten it for $100, would you be unwilling to put $50 worth of fuel into it? If indeed it still has the OEM DM flywheel, and it lets go and grenades the tranny case, it will waste a tranny worth $2K or more, no matter how much you paid for the truck.
BUT thats' apparently not the right stuff for the ZF5
a little reading online and someone has this to say' ..
"Factory spec is all over teh map for that box but the base fill is ATF. Regular ATF is 20 wt. I've found that 30wt synthetic ATF and 50 wt synthetic ATF work much better . I'm currently running the Amsoil 50wt CTL powershift automatic transmission fluid. This stuff is a regular fill for heavy over teh road big truck transmissions( synthetic 50 wt atf is easy to find, most companies make a version of it since that is what most big trucks run nowdays)
I had origianlly put the 30wt synthetic in and then when my brownie really needed the 50 I decided to try it in the zf after talking it over with the tech guys at Amsoil since it basically crosses in that gray area of lube specs between different typs of oils allowed for teh box, the 50 is allowed . With that stuff I get basically no gear rollover noise from my zf ( and very little from my brownie) and cold shifting is easier than it was on the dino oil that was in the thing when I got it, and with the kind of heavy towing I do, I just know I'm saving some serious wear."
im running Redline synthetic in my zf. its no quieter but it shifts much better, especially when cold. ive also ran HYTRAN fluid (Mobilfluid 424) in a zf with good results.
ZF calls for SYNTHETIC ATF for the ZF5 behind a diesel engine.
What does the purchase price of the truck have to do with how much you're willing to spend to maintain it? The only meaningful number is how much the truck would cost to replace if you had to. If you had gotten it for $100, would you be unwilling to put $50 worth of fuel into it? If indeed it still has the OEM DM flywheel, and it lets go and grenades the tranny case, it will waste a tranny worth $2K or more, no matter how much you paid for the truck.
At some point you cut your losses, the truck blue books for 1400$. I'm not putting 2k in it. That being said, if I could mod the dmf like this elusive luk trick that I can't find its worth it. Like I said the truck shifts fine, it's just noisy, and only today I noticed that clank clank after shutdown, so Ima pull the dust cover and see if the dmf is bad. I'm still chasing little issues like why the factory size tires rub on front sway bar
why mod the dmf when you can replace the whole damn mess. More Information for LUK 07225
ive got over 20k miles on this clutch in my 88, I regularly pull a gooseneck trailer and plow snow in the winter, still pulls good, no chatter no slipping, and its just a shade over 300 dollars.
So i was told 30wt non detergent would be way to go if I had a smf, what happens if you got a dmf with the 30wt?
Dual mass makes no difference in fluid. Just ditch the dual mass, you won't regret the LUK clutch or peace of mind, while you're there drain all fluid from the trans. Then refill with fresh atf, if it sounds nice, great. If it still doesn't suit your fancy drain the atf and put 30wt oil in it and see if it quiets down. I don't really care to debate fluids but I am of the opinion that Ford didn't want to stock two fluids if they didn't have to. I'm also of the opinion that a 10wt difference in oil won't "destroy" the trans. Do your own research and make your decision.
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