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So I got the motor out of the project truck and now it's time to overhual/upgrade it and wanted to get some opinions from guys who have possibly done the modifications I'm planning on doing and or input on what else I should be doing while the motor is out and is easy to work. Gonna start with the general maintenance stuff then go into the performance assepect of the build so here we go!
General Maintenance/Repairs:
New Oil Pan (Spectra)
New Dip Stick Flange/O-Ring (Dorman)
New Oil Cooler/Gaskets (Dorman)
New Timing Cover Gaskets (Felpro)
New LPOP (Melling M208 or ENGINETECH EP208)
New Front Crank Shaft Seal (National)
**Just gonna do the front seal for now cause not sure if the rear is actually leaking or not because the HPOP gasket was leaking oil into the valley and they valley drains excess oil to the back of the motor making it appear as if the motor has a bad rear main seal. Once I get it running and driving again will pop the bottom cover off the transmission and determine whether I need to do that rear main seal or not**
New Water Pump/Gasket (Gates)
New Thermostat/Gasket (Gates)
New Temperature Sender (Standard)
New Coolant Hoses (Gates)
New Harmonic Balancer (Dorman)
New Camshaft Position Sensor (Dorman)
New Engine Oil Pressure Sender (Unknown At This Time)
New Engine Oil Temperatur Sender (Unknown At This Time)
New EGR Line (Dorman)
New Exhaust Manifolds/Gaskets (Dorman)
New Up Pipes (Dorman)
New Y Pipe (Dorman)
New Turbo Gaskets (Felpro)
New Mechanical Fuel Pump (Spectra)
New Banjo Bolt Gaskets (Unknown)
New Fuel Bowl Heater (Standard)
New Water In Fuel Sensor (Standard)
New Rubber Fuel Connection Hoses (Connecting Fuel Pump and Filter Housing)
New HPOP Rail End Cap O-Rings (Riffraff Diesel)
New Valve Cover Gaskets (Dorman)
New Gas Tanks (Dorman)
Performance:
Baby Swamp Injectors w/ 6 position switch (XDP Diesel)
Beans D66 w/ 1.0 Housing (Beans Diesel)
3" Down Pipe (Diamond Eye)
Intercooler (Banks)
Mishimoto Radiator (Online)
Boost/Pyro/Fuel Pressure Guages (Unknown)
Any other area's of prone failure on these motors that I missed and should take a look at/fix while the motors out? What do you guys think of the set up? Not going power crazy as it's getting put on 40's and no "Racetrucks" run 40's...just a little bit more power then stock to help turn those big 40's. Let me know what you guys think of this rebuild/power upgrade plan!
Alright camshaft position sensor and valve cover gaskets will be coming from the local ford dealership. Those the only things that NEED to be from Ford?
Why would you do all that work with the engine out and not replace the rear main seal!?
...and EGR line? You don't have an EGR.
Cause the way the oil is around the back of the motor looks to be all oil that leaked down from the valley. All the oil is to the one side of the back of the motor where the drain hole is so I'm thinking it actually isn't bad. But if the seal is indeed blown I will be replacing the trans at some point and will just replace it when the trans is out. I'm talking about the EBP line on the front of the motor that comes off the passenger side exhaust manifold up the to the back of the HPOP. The lines pretty rusty and could use replacing.
So what if you can't decisively conclude if it's actually leaking?
You're saving $30 and an hour of your time now, only so you can later spend the same $30 later. Except later the engine won't be conveniently on a stand, and you'll be lying on the ground at an awkward angle trying to chisel the wear sleeve off the crank for 3 hours.
You said in your other thread that this was a perfectly running engine before you pulled it. This means you're replacing a ton of other things on this engine that are working fine and don't need replacing - like the oil pump, harmonic damper, fuel pump, etc...
It would just be stupid to not change the rear main seal, considering all the other work you're doing, and the fact that you're changing the front seal...
So what if you can't decisively conclude if it's actually leaking?
You're saving $30 and an hour of your time now, only so you can later spend the same $30 later. Except later the engine won't be conveniently on a stand, and you'll be lying on the ground at an awkward angle trying to chisel the wear sleeve off the crank for 3 hours.
You said in your other thread that this was a perfectly running engine before you pulled it. This means you're replacing a ton of other things on this engine that are working fine and don't need replacing - like the oil pump, harmonic damper, fuel pump, etc...
It would just be stupid to not change the rear main seal, considering all the other work you're doing, and the fact that you're changing the front seal...
You do have a good point, guess I'll put the rear main seal on the list of things to do while it's out to save me some time and effort in case it is indeed bad. It's funny how prior to pulling the motor I had a parts list of all the stuff I was going to replace and that list has multiplied by 3x at lease since
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