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I am in process of changing the antifreeze in my 97 F350 7.3 Dually. The owners manual states the cooling system holds 22 quarts. Will just removing the radiator drain **** get all the old stuff out? My plan is to drain old antifreeze and then put two bottles of radiator flush and plain water and then drive it locally for about a 100 miles keeping a close watch on temp gauge. Then drain again and fill with precharged Fleet Antifreeze. I also have a couple bottles of FW15 if needed. Does this sound OK or am I getting ready to screw up something on my truck?
Sounds OK but hold off on the FW15 for awhile. Get some test stripes and after 10K or 15K check it. For sure pull the drain plugs, best way to get most of the old stuff out of there.
Edit: I buy four antifreeze and four distilled water and you'll only have a little left over.
^^^^ +1; I think the 22-quart spec is some holdover from the first PSDs that had the old-style rad and overflow bottle. And they just never changed the owner's manual. It's closer to eight gallons total.
Might want to soak the block plugs with some penetrating lubricant for a while before trying to loosen them. Working on this project myself this weekend and I could only get the passenger side plug (above starter) out. Looks like previous owner installed driver's side plug with loctite or something. Square hole started rounding off as I tried to work it loose, even after soaking with penetrating lube. So for now I've just left it in there, would like to get out at some point but will have to get creative about how. I have read the plugs sticking is somewhat common.
Passenger side above starter is a bit of a bear to get to, I pulled the starter off so I could see what I was doing and to keep from drowning the starter with antifreeze.
Tell me more about this block heater. I don't believe I'm familiar with it. I'm having problem with block plugs also. I took lower radiator hose off also. Does enough of the old stuff drain out to make removing these block plugs worthwhile? One thing did sorta surprise me. My truck has never acted like it wanted to run hot, even pulling 13,000lb 5th wheel camper in mountains. Pulling camper it takes a long hill to make temp gauge even get close to halfway between cold and hot. After I drained old antifreeze and refilled with plain water and Peak flush solution and drove it to the farmers market it still does not run anywhere near hot, but it does run warmer than usual.
Just follow the cord to the block heater. IIRC, there is a metal clip that holds it in. Just pull it out, lots of antifreeze comes out. I always pull the plugs, its unbelievable how much comes out. The plug above the starter can be gotten without removing the starter but its easier with the starter off. I disagree with the oem gauge not being accurate. It ALWAYS does what my added gauge does.
Block heater is this big plug above the oil filter, I believe it was a 1 1/8" head size. Unplug the chord first.
Block heater element is just above oil filter, removing effectively creates an alternate block drain if driver side drain plug is stuck.
Click on end of plug Glen was referring to, just pry gently off the threads of the heater element.
Block heater chord with retaining clip.
Passenger side plug above starter, difficult to reach with starter in place, but doable. I took my starter out.
Viewed from just behind and below starter, plug was something like 14mm I think.
Careful if you go messing around with removing starter. I did, so as to not hose my starter, and now truck won't start, just clicks. I'm sure I've just disrupted a connection somewhere on terminal, will get it figured out. Just be careful you keep your connections clean, dry, tight, etc.
huumm, I've had three PSD's and above the starter has always been a square head plug. The plug Adam showed on the drivers side I've only been able to get one of them out of the three PSD's. I soaked them forever too. I wish Travis was around more but he is the one who told me to just pull the heater element, does the same thing.