cab removal questions

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Apr 22, 2016 | 09:46 AM

#31

56panelford

FTE Legend

Joined: Oct 2005

Posts: 283,694

Likes: 8,275

From: northwestern Ontario

Quote:

Originally Posted by GoldCo

dang, you guys weren't kidding... this door hinge pin is not cooperating! of course it doesn't help that i took a grinder to remove the head, but think i ended up 'welding' the pin to the hinge after the getting thru the top.

trying to drill it out, but can't really get the drill close enough to get a straight shot. in hindsight, i thought i could drive the pin down after removing the head, but after looking here again and seeing those serrations, i think the pin needs to be driven up instead. D'OH!

try again this weekend.

in the meantime, a semi-related question to cab removal: i'm gonna need a new windshield (this one is broken) -- how much should i expect to pay?

thanks.

All your glass is flat isn't it.? Any automotive glass shop should be able to cut it for you.

Apr 24, 2016 | 11:06 PM

#32

GoldCo

Thread Starter

Laughing Gas

Joined: May 2015

Posts: 826

Likes: 21

From: Golden, CO

success

grinder, PB Blaster, 2 broken drill bits, sledgehammer, and punch (plus a few swear words)...

glad i need to only do one!

Apr 24, 2016 | 11:08 PM

#33

GoldCo

Thread Starter

Laughing Gas

Joined: May 2015

Posts: 826

Likes: 21

From: Golden, CO

looking to pull the cab tomorrow...

any preference to removing the rear mount at the cab or the frame location (for that bracket)? one easier/better than the other?

Apr 24, 2016 | 11:26 PM

#34

toby tough

Posting Guru

Joined: Sep 2011

Posts: 1,409

Likes: 0

From: Clitherall, MN.

Eventually I removed them altogether. Had some issues when I went to set it down in the trailer to bring it home. Don't need them doodads danglin' around under there when you go to set it down somewhere.

May 3, 2016 | 05:56 PM

#35

GoldCo

Thread Starter

Laughing Gas

Joined: May 2015

Posts: 826

Likes: 21

From: Golden, CO

help

EDIT:
D'OH! didn't realize that the steering shaft was integral to the steering box! so guess the whole shebang needs to come out if i don't want to lift cab up...

------

getting close! had to destroy the bolt heads on the front mounts using a cutoff wheel and chisel/hammer (not pretty).

so looking at this now, clearly i should pull the steering column so that the cab doesn't need to be lifted 5 feet in the air up & over, right?

can i just pull the column from the steering box, or does the whole box need to come out as a unit with the column? is it just as simple as removing that clamp at the base of the column?

thanks.

May 3, 2016 | 07:07 PM

#36

ct50f1

More Turbo

Joined: Dec 2009

Posts: 696

Likes: 48

From: Central Connecticut

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harrier

Your windshield will be around $120
1948-52 Ford F-100 Windshield,clear , 4852
Shipping will be probably $150.
...

I bought all of the glass for the cab from LMC, front and back windshields, vent glass and door window glass. The windshield alone was $109.95. Total for the glass came to $280 and shipping was $54.75, which included a $20 oversize charge. They really pack it well with thick corrugated spacers and lots of spray foam. I think it was a pretty good deal.

May 3, 2016 | 07:31 PM

#37

bjmayberry2

Lead Driver

Joined: Dec 2012

Posts: 9,718

Likes: 823

From: Wentzville, MO

Quote:

Originally Posted by GoldCo

getting close! had to destroy the bolt heads on the front mounts using a cutoff wheel and chisel/hammer (not pretty).

so looking at this now, clearly i should pull the steering column so that the cab doesn't need to be lifted 5 feet in the air up & over, right?

can i just pull the column from the steering box, or does the whole box need to come out as a unit with the column? is it just as simple as removing that clamp at the base of the column?

thanks.

Remove the pitman arn, the three bolts that hold the steering gear, the floor plate halves, the wiring to the steering column ( directionals and horn) and the 2 bolts that hold the column to the dash. Then pull the whole thing out of the cab. You can pull the Steeing whole even the steering wheel. It'll make it easy to pull your cab.

May 3, 2016 | 09:08 PM

#38

pholmes350

Mountain Pass

Joined: Jun 2012

Posts: 177

Likes: 1

From: Arab, Alabama

When I removed my cab I took out the mounting bolts, jacked one side of the cab up with a floor jack and set it on blocks. Went to the other side and repeated. Once the cab rests on the blocks you roll the chassis out from under it as long as either the bed is off or the front cap and engine is gone, depending on which direction you roll the chassis. May need to set the cab on some boards that are on top of the blocks to move the blocks out of the wheel path.

With this method no cherry picker or lift is required.

Last edited by pholmes350; May 3, 2016 at 09:10 PM. Reason: more detail