Next.

This truck drives nice and straight, no problems with alignment at all that I can tell. However, the steering wheel is not clocked correctly. It's a small thing, but it bugs me lol:



For those much wiser than I, is this as simple as pulling the steering wheel and doing a reclock on the shaft/column splines? or is there a better way?

 

Next to last, then I'll stop, I swear!

The door thingy that stops it from closing:



This is the driver's side. I obviously do not know the correct names for these parts, or even sure the best way to fix it, but it's kind of a pain unless you're parked slighty nose down hill.

Recommendations? The heavy wire piece that is supposed to lock in with the splined wheels (and I think there is only 1 wheel - I thought there should be 2) barely touches it.

 

OK, last one for now!

If you go back up to the steering wheel pic, you see I only have 2 gages; fuel and temp. I would like to add oil pressure and a voltmeter.

I don't think I want to go in and replace the stock lights; more like in addition to.

I also do not want to mess with, drill holes or otherwise deface that beautiful stock, well preserved factory dash face. So, I had a thought.

Remember in the old days how tachs were hung off the column? I'm trying to come up with something similar. I can't really go under the dash because of upcoming AC evap that will be mounted there. And, I don't want to use the little pocket, so that leaves the column. I think I have both gages and an old style tach somewhere in my parts horde, so maybe I can put the tach in the middle in front of where the factory tach would be, then do the gages on either side of that at the base.

Now, to figure out what to use as clamps and brackets! I need to do some scrounging through my parts and scrap bins, and also dig through online catalogs to see if I can come up with an idea, or maybe a commercial solution I'm not aware of.

Ideas?

Need to figure out oil pressure senders too, as in will the one that triggers the light do double duty (probably not), or do I use a "T", or plumb a mechanical line in to the cab, or?

 

Wow! So many thoughts (me) and no idea where to start. First, how 'bout this for the oil pressure gauge and volt meter? As for the sending unit, you only need one if you use electrical gauges. If so, get the sending unit with the gauge, and put a tee in to use both the stock one and the new one.



On the doors, it looks like the hinge is worn out. Perhaps a new bushing kit will straighten it up enough to touch the spring but, if not, maybe you'll have to replace the hinge as it may be worn where the spring is.

 

Gary, thanks for the reply.

Yes, that gage pod could be the trick; where did you find that? EDIT: nevermind, I missed the link to autometer, thanks! DUH, you put in "steering column gage pod" in the ebay search and get 237 hits!

On the hinge; I walked out to the truck to verify and there is no movement up and down or other signs the pin/bushings are worn out. I did see the spring is bent a tad away from the little wheel. I'll try to clean all that up and take an appropriate prying device and bend it back and see how it goes.

You did verify a suspicion that if it's worn too much, a hinge replacement is the fix. At least, I think that's what you're saying. Maybe I ought to start looking for one to put on the shelf.

 

I have also heard about the rear gearing and the Srod trany only using 4th at high speeds.
What you may want to do before jumping to change the gearing, not that either one is bad, is get all the trany gear ratios and play with some of the on line calculators to see what RPM's in each gear will be.
I say this because with the 3.55 rear you may find it good in 4th but first may be way to low to use now as maybe the 2nd & 3rd, Oh don't forget the back up gear too.


I hear you on the A/C thing we also need it here in NC!
You had me a little scared when you said you where thinking of removing parts from the dead factory A/C truck you have. I was going to say DONT DO IT! then saw it was just the motor parts. Motor parts is ok (and what I will need for my project) but not the box part as the firewall is different between the 2 trucks. I am crazy an I am swapping firewalls.


My 81 F100 A/C parts truck also has a York compressor, owner pulled it off the motor before he sold motor but not everything else I need. I may go with a rotary one as they use less power to run them than the York.


Sounds like you have a good plan worked out for Festus
Dave ----

 

Well, I found out the problem with the hinge spring:



I went out to see about straightening it a tad, and it broke right off. It's been a long time coming as the ends were rusty and worn.

It looks like a new hinge (or good used) is in my future. I was thinking that maybe some sort of bolt could be put in place of where the spring is now, but I don't want to do a Fred Sanford fix, best to just do it right.

 

Yes, that just might be the problem.

 

The truck ratios:

Ratio #1: 3.01 1st, 1.78 2nd, 1.00 3rd, 0.79 4th and 3.01 Rev.
Ratio #2: 3.25 1st, 1.92 2nd, 1.00 3rd, 0.78 4th and 3.25 Rev.

According to this source:
Toploader 4 Speed Transmissions

Basically, there is no free lunch I think. I could error on more across the range and go with either a 3.00 or 3.25, but I tend to like the feature of it being a good low 1st with a useable OD 4th. So, that said, 3.25 at the minimum.



I do try and research first for my own knowledge, and also I know it's a pain to ask something that's been gone over many times before. I did read how the firewalls are different and trying to adapt factory AC to a non factory AC cab involves mucho work. An aftermarket underdash unit is fine with me and it solves the problem, just need the under hood brackets and other nick nacks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FuzzFace2

Sounds like you have a good plan worked out for Festus

LOL, well me and plans only have a loose affiliation. I am much more spur of the moment. Hopefully I don't lose my way with Festus. I do want it to be my DD, and something wifey will ride in. She won't go in the '85 as it "smells like oil", which is correct as between ample blowby and oil leaks on hot engine and exhaust creates that euphoric smell that somehow doesn't both me so much.

It sure is purty tho!:

 

For gauge pod have you looked into "A" pillar gauge pods. They may not list them for your year truck but find one close that will work.
If you picked up a spare "A" pillar trim you could mount the pod to it. Mold it in and paint to match the cab inside.


For the steering wheel being off center and I would have to go out and check mine but most have 2 tie rod adjusting sleeves.
Just checked yep mine had 2 adjusting sleeves you turn 1 in and the other out the same number of turns you did the first and it should center the wheel.
Also know the box has a "high" spot in the center to hold the box/wheel there so centering the wheel should put that back on center.


On the hinge thing I don't thing bending that wire back into place will work as I think it will just bend right back.
To bend it at all I think the door has to be closed to move that wheel away from the spring. to reach the hinge the door or fender would have to come off and if I went thru all that I would just replace the hinge.
Dave ----

 

You are typing up posts faster than I can LOL


On the trany & rear gear I just wanted you to know (and others if thinking of going down this road) to look at the whole package. A lot only look at 4th gear fix and then find the other 3 gears don't work to well.


What I used when I installed a T5 in place of a AMC T10 was to take the trany gear ratio (for each gear) times the rear axle ratio to find final ratio.
There is an optimal ratio range for each trany gear I just cant remember what it was for first gear.
trany gear x rear axle gear = final gear ratio
Dave ----

 

I too have a T5 in place of a AMC T10 behind a '70 390. 2.95 1st gear and 3.15 rear and it's too "shallow", as in, I need more gear. I've had people tell me that putting 3.54s in the AMC 20 rear would be too much, but as it is I can't use 5th until I'm already at legal freeway speeds. This is a built AMX 390 engine in a '69 AMC Rambler, so it's a very light car.

Now I said that to say this: optimal trans + rear gear combos vary according to the application. I did go and search "optimal transmission rear end ratios" and got lots of hits. Most were muscle car forums and the consensus is for 1st gear, 9:1 is best for street, and 10:1 for drag racing.

Bear in mind, these are cars with mostly high revving engines, so should what's best for a high revving 5.0 in a Mustang be the standard for a 4.9 in a truck? I don't think so. In my '85 the trans is NP435 with a 3.55 rear. 1st gear ratio is 6.68 for Ford versions times 3.55 = 23.7. I use 1st gear all the time in that truck, and with no OD rarely go over 65.

So, even if I take the lower 1st gear version of the Srod (I don't know which is underneath the '81) it works out to be 3.25 1st gear X 3.25 = 10.56, and 11.375 for a 3.50 rear. If it has the 3.01, it would be 9.78 or 10.53.

I could very well have the 3.01 1st gear, so I think maybe I'll compromise with a 3.25, but no less than that. It would still give me a good lower 1st to get it rolling, and a usable 4th OD, and good power through out the range.

In several posts back, I was relating the traffic jam leading up to the Mississippi bridge @ Baton Rouge, LA. I did not want to get stuck in stop and go traffic on the up side of that bridge as it is fairly steep going up, and with the combo of a shallow 1st gear and the parking brake being on the clutch side of the floor, it would have kept me busy going through all the motions of getting up that side a few feet at a time.

3.25 or 3.50 is what I'm sticking with and I think it will be perfect for that truck. I need to try and decode the trans, or otherwise figure out which gear combo is under it, then use that as my final deciding point.

 

OK it sound like you got a handle on the gear ratio thing and the posting more for others thinking of gear swaps both trany swap and/or rear gear swap.


You are also right on the other factors like motors and weight of car/truck.
If the person knows what they have now for ratios and the ratios of what they want to swap to and if they are looking to go higher (lower number) or lower (higher number) ratio they can do the math to see if it will work or be close enough to work for them.


When I first started reading the 390 AMX w/3.15 rear gear and it did not compute because it should have been 3.54 then saw it was in the Rambler.
My T5 is also a 2.95 and the Javelin should have 3.54 gear as it was a factory 390 car. I know the AMC T10 with 2.64 first is what every one wants and the T10 I had in the car was too high (don't remember what it was now) so the 2.95 might be a little too low but think it will be ok when I get it on the street.


Again this gear ratio post is for people thinking of gear swaps.
and sorry for the high jack
Dave ----

 

I had a T10 in it originally - well it wasn't original to the car, but when I got it - and 3.54 gears. The thing was exceptionally fast, but it wound up pretty good on the highway unless the speed was kept to 65-70, so I had it in my head I had to have an OD. I first put 3.15 gears in it, then went to the T5. I scored a SVO trans + bellhousing, driveshaft, and all the extras out of a Spirit with a 304. It bolted right in.

I kick myself because I sold off the T10 + bellhousing + clutch parts for $400. This was more than a few yrs ago, but still, they are very hard to find today and big $$ when you do, esp when as complete as mine was. I haven't moved since then, so it would have been just as happy sitting there on the shelf waiting; Jeez..........


No hijack, all part of the discussion and I'm glad to have it. I do think because of it I'll go to 3.25 vs 3.50, so it's all good. You brought up a good point about optimal gear ratios.

Maybe someone else reading this will get something out of it, too!

 

Other than affecting rpm/mph in all gears, a very noticeable side effect of axle gearing changes, is the spreading (or closing up) of the transmission ratios when driving.
So given the wide ratio spacing of the SROD, TOD etc.........IF a 3.54 didn't slow you down too much on the highway, it would significantly close those big gear gaps, especially 2nd to 3rd.
It would also give you a 1st gear a bit closer to the granny you have with the NP435, if you still want that.