Beautiful work, Jim! I just posted some Commando pics on the "Adventure Begins..." thread.

 

Welcome back, WilleyJoe! We have missed you!

 

Thanks brother, I've missed being here. Neck deep in the Jeep restoration and a hundred other projects. The '07 pretty much takes care of itself, so my Ford dabblings have been few.

 

It's been awhile since I updated this thread. I've been mostly driving and not much working on it, until today, but I'll get to that in a bit.

Still no AC, and here it is back in the 90s again in my neck of the woods, but to be honest it's not such a big deal. I'm retired so don't have to drive anywhere if I don't want, and the tinted windows and rear slider really makes a difference while you're moving. But still, it is a project I need to finish.

I needed a charging station in the cab beyond the lone cig lighter, so I got that done at least. I bought a combo digital voltmeter-dual usb-12v power port aka cig lighter socket from Amazon, then cut up a piece of aluminum angle and installed it all where the ashtray was.

I tried to get a shot of the digital vm reading, but the light was behind me and it didn't show up very well. Joe had replaced the alternator because the alt light was flickering, but the vm reads 14.4 or so when it's running, so it's not been an issue.



I wanted it tucked up good for when I do put the under dash evap unit it will be out of the way. EDIT: After posting, I noticed in these pics it looks like it's crooked, being higher on the passenger side. That's an illusion; it looks pretty good to my old eyes in real view.



In the above pics, can see the on/off switch. I decided to run a dedicated line in (and ground) from the battery via a relay under the hood. I put a fuse inline with the power in and he whole thing worked out good. The switch on the panel triggers the relay, and (the on/off switch) is powered by the oem cig lighter wire.







Anyway, that's it for that project. It's going good and is a better power source if it's needed.

 

OK, now on to the "big" job today. I had an appointment in town (~10 miles each way), and coming home it started really getting "jerky". To be honest, I thought at first it had something to do with the driveline as in transmission or rear end. But, I pressed in the clutch in a bit and it just died. Thankfully it caught again with it rolling in gear, but it was getting progressively worse.

I got home, positioned it nose first in the garage and saw gas running down from the carb, origin unsure. I let it cool down for 45 minutes or so while I got all set up.

Remember some pages back and I was talking about how it was flooding, and I had got a carb overhaul kit? Well, I should have done the work then. No pics of it puking gas or carb apart, but I ended up taking the top off, and replacing the inlet needle, adjusted the float (altho it was OK), doing a good clean job, and replacing soft goods/gaskets. It's much better, altho now I'm noticing an exhaust leak someplace I can't quite figure out where.

I'm glad to have the box of used carbs as I needed some bits here and there, like the inlet to pipe thread for the screw in filter.



Some time back, and discussed here, I placed a Summit order for a regulator, a couple of pressure gages, and some other bits to put before the carb. There was a suspicion that the mechanical pump was putting out too much pressure and this was a way to make sure, and also ensure steady, correct pressure to the carb.

Well, know how we knock around the quality of parts these days? I started screwing it all together and noticed one of the fittings was not threaded for 1/8 npt like it was supposed to be, and the other one was. I double checked the part number and it's correct. I got this order 6 months ago or so and opened it to ensure I got everything, but that little detail escaped my attention.



You can see above and below the fitting at the bottom is smooth where it's supposed to be threaded. So much for my well planned modification! I was just reading Abandoned Bronco's last update on his 300 build. He had ordered some special valve fulcrums (I think that's what you call em) and got 3 bags of 4, and one of the bags was not the type he wanted even tho they all had the same p/n on the outside. It just enforces you have got to check and double check parts orders these days!




Anyway, the good news is that it's running again, and the pressure reg can wait for another day. It's a PITA working on the carb as I have to get up on the front of the truck to reach in, and by the time I get up there sitting at the edge of the engine bay then discover I need yet something else that is not within reach, so have to dis mount, go find it, and get back in. Geez, I'm getting too old for this, but I guess there are worse things than working on old trucks

 

LOL! I certainly can sympathize with the I'm-up-there-and-need-another-tool syndrome. Big Blue sits a bit high normally, and when I have the lift under him I don't let him all the way down or he rolls a bit a messes up the lift's positioning. So, I leave him just a bit higher than normal, and have to watch what I'm doing when getting down. At almost 70 it won't take much of a fall to be a bummer.

Anyway, you are making progress - 2 steps forward and one back. But, it is still progress.

 

Thanks Gary. You know, it's been such a good running truck that I just haven't messed with it. I'd like to ditch the factory intake and exhaust in favor of an Offy C and 2100, and some factory efi exhaust manifolds (in stock on my workbench), but I am satisfied with how it runs for the most part, and don't want to upset the applecart. Hopefully this will hold it for a while, but I am going to finish the regulator job.

 

I really like having that pressure gauge telling me what is happening. Saved me once when the gas gauge said it had gas, but the pressure gauge said otherwise.

 

I need to figure out where to put it. I was hoping it could go on the engine, but I think I may need to plump it over on the passenger inner fender, then route it back to the carb. Not sure where to go with it, but I've got some ideas to explore. More later -

 

I got the truck out on about a 20 mile drive on some errands, and have to say it feels much smoother in the power dept. I guess that carb needed the work! I mean, it's still a 300 with a 1 bbl, but has good power within it's natural limitations.

I have another issue developing, and that is it's getting progressively worse to reverse. It "shudders" really bad on any soft surface esp sand, but is manageable on pavement. I had put that craigslist find 3.50 3rd member in and had no problems with it initially, but it started the shudder thing maybe 6 wks ago and has gotten really bad in certain situations. I'd think it has to be related to that 3rd member, but it's fine going forward and doesn't seem to have any driveline slop (U-joints, etc).

Ideas? Maybe it's time to order the parts to covert my original 2.47 to a 3.25 and make sure it's set up correctly. The 3.50 looked OK to me, no slop, etc, but I think there's something going on there.

 

Is that a pan LS third member? If so, are you running the right fluid? If not, maybe the spider gears or shafts are bad?

 

If it was a LS and if it was the clutch pack you would feel it when pulling away from a stop making a tight turn as 1 wheel has to move faster than the other and the clutch plates try and slip causing the chatter.
Also I found more so when hot like a long, 50 miles at high way speeds, and getting off the hi way and a tight turn onto the street.

Most of the time it is clutch chatter. Could the rear main seal or oil pan be leaking or any way for something to get on the clutch assy.?

Remember reverse is higher ratio than first and why you may only get it backing up. What if you try taking off in 2nd gear what happens?

Check motor & trany mounts. Also drive shaft & pinion angles as they can be a cause.

On the rear springs are there any clamps at the end of some of the leaves mostly at the front half? Could be wheel hop when backing up as the front part of the spring leaves are pulling apart. Could try clamping them to see if that helps.
Dave ----

 

I had a full day today and just got back. A family member has been in the hospital in Orlando so wife & I headed over there in her little Fiesta econobox.

Gary: I don't know what you mean by "pan"; the 3rd member is a 3.50 open 31 spline. I put good quality oil in it when it was changed, but of course no LS fluid additive because it didn't require it. I put the heavier 140-(forget the lower number) oil in it.

FF: That clutch was a new install when Joe first had the truck (it failed on him on the drive back from the seller). I have not tried to use a 2nd gear start, but will and get back here and post results. I've had no problems going forward, the clutch action is smooth and lets out great with no slippage.

I will look at the mounts. The angle I'd be surprised if anything was off there as it's totally stock as far as I know. I do have a level gage and try and figure that out though.

I will check the spring clamps; it does feel like wheel hop vs clutch chatter.

It is inferno hot outside right now, so will do in the AM and report back. Thanks for the input guys! I appreciate it.

 

I don't now what a "pan" is either? So, please disregard.

 

Most gear oil I have bought was W80-W90 and all made for LS so no need for the little bottle to be added but would be ok to add if wanted to.


With the lower gear ratio you would get more wheel hop if that is what you are getting.
The clamps on the springs is I think when backing up the springs separate on the front side then bang back together. King of what happens when going forward at the rear of the springs.


Can also try a little weight in the bed, say a few 100 lbs to see if that makes a change.
It could hold the springs together and change the pinion angle on the rear axle.
Dave ----