Originally Posted by wizkid00104

I finally did my headlights on Saturday. Everything went pretty well, got it completely done in 3 hours. I'll post a few notes after the photos.

Before:




Tool for unwinding the headlight adjustors:






Driver's side cut, cleaned up with a grinding wheel at the end:


Passenger's side before:


and after:




Stainless hardware:


Test fit:




Done:




For the bolts, I used:
(4) 1/4-20 X 3/4 BUTTON HEAD ALLEN BOLTS (STAINLESS STEEL)
(4) 1/4 X 1 FENDER WASHER (STAINLESS STEEL)
(4) EXTRUDED "U" NUT 1/4-20 SCREW SIZE (CTR. HOLE TO EDGE:17/32")

I got the hardware from Allen's Fasteners online. Dealt with them several times and they are awesome.

Notes:
1. Don't use a fender washer larger than 1" OD. It will not fit flush with a larger washer.
2. The Extruded "U" nut I used was the perfect center hole to edge length. They make deeper nuts, but they won't fit as cleanly.
3. My headlights had bulbs, but no marker light sockets or turn signal sockets. Turn signals still fit fine. Marker lights do not. I will be ordering (2) sockets from LMC truck (Part # 47-0431) so I can install the markers. For the time being, I just have the old sockets in there to plug the holes. They do not fit well and there is not way to plug the connector into the socket. The sockets do use the same plug adapter from the wiring harness, so no worries there.
4. I knicked my rad core support in a few areas. I made sure to touch all of these areas up before re-assembling. I don't want any unnecessary rust.
5. I used my air die grinder with a 3" cut wheel to remove the header panel. It worked well, but I've heard that a roto zip tool is even easier and probably gives a cleaner result.

Riff Raff did a nice job with the conversion harnesses and I used there how to written by a member on FTE. Thanks guys!

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/conten...structions.pdf