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-The oil pressure sender will need and extension to get it past the tight space and oil sender.
-The temperature sensor will need a brass reducer
-The speed sensor hold down tang will need to be flattened to fit
-The wiring is pretty simple with a diagram, also you can trace the printed circut.
-The ignition and voltage regulator wire need to be together so the ignition wire can excite the voltage regulator (killed a battery real quick to learn that lesson)
I removed the wires from the connector left the pin on, wrapped a 16 gauge wire around the pin then heat shrunk it. I attached male spades to the wire and female to the gauge for a quick disconnect. If I ever want to go back to the old dash I just cut the heat shrink and reinsert the pin in the dash connector. I put numbers on the wire to the corresponding pinnout # on the connector.
Also working on fitting a CD player to the stock radio bezel.
So the digital dash burnt up, Guess jegs had an issue with them and came out with a new style, much much better. They replaced it, So I gutted a old cluster, checked the wiring and fitted it in..
3 lights are battery, seat belt, and brake. The turn signal and high beam are built into the digital dash.. you can also dim the digital dash by tying into the park lamp circuit. I am not using any of the upper lights. I am waiting to get the wiring straight and I am going to have the dash and panels repainted and put in new carpet.
My Speed Hut custom gauges in my other project also has the turn & high beam lights built into the main gauge. The stock bezel has a park (e brake) & brake (failure) lights kind of like the Ford lights at the top.
I need to add a ALT/Batt light or a resistor in place of the light so the ALT will be energized to charge. I forgot that little part as it has a volt meter like yours.
Dave ----
My Speed Hut custom gauges in my other project also has the turn & high beam lights built into the main gauge. The stock bezel has a park (e brake) & brake (failure) lights kind of like the Ford lights at the top.
I need to add a ALT/Batt light or a resistor in place of the light so the ALT will be energized to charge. I forgot that little part as it has a volt meter like yours.
Dave ----
If I can recall I added a 500 ohm resistor.. The red green wire has a resistor soldered to the green red.. Then the green red runs through the bulb back to the red green.. In the event the bulb blows it will still excite the alternator through the resistor. The volts run off a seperate switched 12 volt source
I do remember someone saying I think Ford using a resistor in case the bulb burns out.
My other project is not a Ford and does not use a resistor if the bulb burns out so you get no charge, just like not have a bulb.
Dave ----
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Digital dash progress
