Swapped out my nasty tan cloth seats for black leather seats out of a Limited/EB thats also a 2006.

My drivers was a 6 way, pass was manual. Both had airbags. New seats are both power, heated and airbags. Driver is a 10 way, and memory which is where the issue comes in. I am not figuring out how to get power to it. My main harness plug coming from the floor has power and ground which the diagram shows, but its needing it somewhere else or something as well, because the seat doesn't move. Im thinking the memory module is hindering it somehow.

There is a second plug on the seat which I do not have, but I am very comfortable splicing into it, since there is plenty of slack. There is also one small connector spot open on the module which has 3 other harnesses plugged into it.

I have looked up some wiring diagrams, but they do not make sense to me. If anyone can chime in with some help or suggestions, id greatly appreciate it. Was hoping to have this done yesterday, not realizing the wiring wasn't plug & play. (I dont care about the heat functions, and definitely dont want the memory. I would need a whole different trim bezel, along with switches and wiring harnesses)

 

So I brought the seat inside and set it up on the table. Screw it, I need light and heat to figure this out, lol.

This is where I am at now:


The second harness I spoke of which had a few larger gauge wires in it was all tied in to the memory system. The large wires were grounds, and were controls for the adjustable pedals. The rest was communication and such, I cut all that out.

Exposed most of the wiring so I can see whats what, and what goes where.

Maybe with it like this, it will be easier to help me out. I am stumped now, but have a much better understanding of whats going on. However, it confuses me how the seat works. There was a large power and ground going in to the memory module. In the middle connector, there were 6 large wires that plug into the left side (If youre looking at the front of the seat) of the 3 seat motors. (Plugs into a harness that splits it up between the three units).

The same connector coming into the module has 5 thin gauge wires going to the other side of the motors, but two of the wires splice together, and then come out as 3, so its 6 wires again.

There are a few more wires in that same harness which plug into a plug that goes up into the back of the seat, so i'm assuming thats the recliner motor. There are 8 wires in that connector.

Somehow these wires need to be spliced together, right? This is where I am lost.

Here is the diagram I have printed out. The square with "gone" poorly written above it is the connector that I cut out. It was the one going into the memory module, which then went to a large female connector under the seat which I cut off as well.

 

Because the seats you are hoping to install were memory seats, the various position motors also have positional feedback sensors. You can ignore the wires for these sensors.

Fortunately, the 3 motors that are similar to your 6-way power seats use the same wire colors as the comparable motors in the 10-way seats. The remaining 2 motors are the power lumbar (which appears to be self-contained and not controlled by the Driver Seat Module) and the Up/Down Recline motor.

Since you are not using the memory feature, you can ignore the wires exiting the Driver Seat Module with the colors Gray-Orange, Green-Orange (spliced to all three motors), Blue-Green, Green-Blue, and Brown-Blue.

To bypass the Driver Door Module, the connections you need to make are as follows:

• Green wire from the switch assembly to Green-White from the Driver Seat Module (DSM).
• Green-Violet from the switch assembly to Green-Blue from the DSM.
• Gray from the switch assembly to Gray-Yellow from the DSM.
• White-Violet from the switch assembly to Violet-Gray from the DSM.
• Yellow-Blue from the switch assembly to Yellow-Orange from the DSM.
• Blue-Brown from the switch assembly to Blue-White from the DSM.
• Violet-Brown from the switch assembly to Violet-Orange from the DSM.
• White-Brown from the switch assembly to Gray-Brown from the DSM
• Gray-Violet and Brown-Green from the switch assembly should already go to Gray-Violet and Brown-White of the Lumbar Compressor Motor.

-Rod

 

*Edit - Irrelevant after last post

 

I couldn't wait, I went back downstairs and cut a bunch of short strips of wire to jump right from the connector, added power from a 12v battery I have handy, and IT WORKS!

I can't express enough how thankful I am. Honestly, I have been pulling my hair out all day to figure this out. Do you have PayPal? I'd love to at least buy you a case of beer or something. Send me your PP email if you do, ill shoot you a thank you payment man.

One thing that concerns me a little bit is the gauge of the wiring. The wires coming from the switch are probably 14- awg, whereas the wires coming "from" the DSM are heavier gauge probably 12awg if I had to guess. Is this an issue? The switch has relays in it im assuming, because of the needed 12v power from a thinner wire going to it.

 

I got lucky, I was just going off of the wiring diagrams and making a few assumptions. I'm glad it worked out for you!

The switch does not have any relays in it. The switches are setup as reverse polarity switches which is why they get power and ground. The same power feed to the switch also feeds the DSM. The DSM probably has transistors or relays inside to provide the higher current to the motors. According to the connector diagram, the wires from the switch are 18 gauge and the wires from the DSM to the motors are 14 gauge. That was a good observation for you to bring up, and may be a valid concern. I ran a little calculation on the difference in wire size and it appears you'll only drop about an extra 76 mV using the 18 gauge wire versus the 14 gauge wire (assuming a 15 A draw and 200 mm length) so that little extra drop for the short amount of time should not cause any issues with the 18 gauge wire. Hopefully the switch is rated for at least that amount of current as well (the fuse to the switch is a 20A fuse).

-Rod

 

Hi Rod,


I am trying to do a similar install on my 2017 XLT 300A and hope I could get some insight from you. Been banging my head for a few days now with this.

I got a '15 King Ranch driver seat, but it looks to have the exact same wiring harness and plugs as the OP picture of the DSM.

The king ranch has the 2 connectors also. I haven't taken the seat out of my truck yet to look under the carpet. I have one harness I see coming out but only has a few wires in it. Most likely for the seat airbag and seat belt alarm.

I v been reading on various forums that ford uses the same wiring harness for all their trucks XLT and up. Don't know if that is correct.

Heck at this point idc if I even wire it diireclty into the truck.
Just put a cig lighter plug on it and plug it in when I need it to move.

Thanks,
Matt

 

I can try to help, but unfortunately my service manuals end with the 2013 model year.

I didn't really pick up on a specific question in your post, so I'm not sure what insight you're after.

-Rod

 

Sorry I just realized I didn't make my question clear whatsoever.

I d like to install the king ranch seats into my XLT 300A.

Heres what the KR connectors look like.



Do I need to bypass the DSM module completely in order to use the power seats and lumbar support? Or can I power certain pins in the connectors to push power into the DSM for the power way/lumbar?

Thats all I want to be powered in this seat. Everything else can be ignored.

 

So does your 2017 F150 has power seats already, and you're looking to make basically the same functions of the King Ranch seat work like the stock seat? If so, you should be able to wire up the stock DSM to the KR seats. Determining whether or not the wire colors match and actually making the connections, in theory, should be the difficult part.

If your stock seats are not power though, that's a different story....

-Rod

 

Truck doesn't have anything power, its a manual seat and lumbar.

I would just like the power seat and lumbar features to work.

I have a harness coming up from the floor in the truck, but it has very limited wires comparing to this seat. Looks to be possibly just airbag and seat belt chime.

I would only need 1 power line coming into the seat from the truck to power these features?

 

Right, you would need one power line coming in that is sufficiently sized and fused to handle the current draw. Then wire that power to the switches that are hopefully all contained right on the seat.

-Rod

 

Can you help me with a similar situation for a 2012 xlt f150, my truck had no power seats, I put in fx4 powered seats, got the passenger to work by giving power to pin 21 and ground at 16. Driver has the memory module, unsure how to power it that way it gives power to seats.

 

What year was the donor FX4? Do you have the Driver Seat Module with the donor seats?

-Rod

 

donor 2011, my truck is a 2012. Looking to power up the memory module and switch on drivers side for seat movement. seats are completely intact all wires and modules. I even have the truck side connection with about 1.5 ft of wire. i wired Passenger side thatt didnt have memory, used pins 21 and 16, but may have tested in reverse, as it powered it seat but the controls were reversed. Forward went back n vice versa fir all movements, the back lumbar didn't work though.